Hey everyone, I have mb quart qsd216 component speakers in stock location, amped by a jl 300/2, a 10" jlw6v2 powered by a jl 500/1 amp. and a double din clarion max675vd HU.

Now my problem, It doesn't sound good. my friend who did an awesome job with the install isn't good at tuning it. and although the tweeters are extrememly loud and accurate, they are harsh on the ears. So i'm planning on finding a shop to install rear coaxials powered by the hu for some rear fill to lighten the load off the front speakers for the sake of my ears. I don't know how to adjust the crossover and aren't sure if it'll help with the harshness.

So I am looking for a good shop to install the rear speakers and also tune my entire setup for a reasonable price. I'd appreciate any advice you can give thanks

 

try one of those places, they are the jl audio dealers online. i think to deal with jl you have to know what you are doing since jl only uses authorized dealers.

Car Audio Specialists is 0 miles from you
177 Hamakua Drive
Kailua, HI 96734
Phone: 808-262-9940
Email: caraudiohawaii@aol.com
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Car Audio Specialists is 10 miles from you
321 Mokauea Street
Unit C & D
Honolulu, HI 96819
Phone: 808-591-1020

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Progressive Auto Sounds is 13 miles from you
98-025 Hekaha Street #6
Aiea, HI 96701
Phone: 808-486-8847

Map This Location

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Car Audio Specialists is 21 miles from you
34 N Kam Hwy
Wahiawa, HI 96786
Phone: 808-621-2299

 

+1 for progressive audio

 

+1 for progressive auto.

Had a cooworker who had his car broke into and they did a freakin great job. All JL audio and Eclipse, remote amp and sub. That think hit hard for just an 8" sub. I guess thats what you get with having the right box.

 

Thanks!!! you guys are awesome will check out soon

 

on a different note, you might have been better going with 1 10" sub. I have broke my windshield 3 times now. They cant figure out why it keeps cracking where the mirror attaches...

 

Simple physics. Windows flex because they are more viscus than solid. Infact glass is an extremely viscus fluid that takes years to settle. Same reason why midevil stain glass is thicker at the bottom than top. Think of it as Taffy.

But any who it flexes. The center line of the glass is the weakest point and the oscillation point. Add weight to that center line and you put way more stress on it. Rember physics:

F= force
M= mass
A= Aceleration

F=M*A.

pressure = f/area


So say a normal window is flexing at .254 mm for .0033 seconds or .0762m/s (aproximate 300hz resonant frequency of laminated glass automotive windshield glass.). From what I gathered the windshield weighs 90lbs. Thats 6.858lb's of force. The area of the windshield that is stress is about .4" squared applied through the length of that centerline. Sooooo thats only 17.145.psi along the center stress line.

So now you inuduce a 1.5 mm flex. Not much at all, right? That ends up being 101.26psi along that crack line. The laminated glass in automobile have a typicle impact rating of well over 150psi.

Your crack is comming more from fatigue than instant failure. All this only come into play only if there is one factor, your seat area is slightly deformed. If there is even a slight divot in the center, when the window is bonded to the seat its strained there a little more than the rest.

NOTE: This is an idealistic non linear point model of pressure. Other factors were not calculated like barametric preassure, temprature, heatsoaking, previous fatigue damage, etc. To get a more accurate calculation you need those. This is just measure of idealist best case scenerio of max point force applied under perfect conditions.

Thats the only thing I've seen really crack a window. I had 2 12" and 2000watt sub in my sentra (because they were cheaper than 2 8", thats why :P) and nothing. That **** would vibrate so much that when the amp was at full power I couldnt use ANY of the mirrors and my eyes would go blurry. But my friend had the exact same year, and modle SE-R and 1 10" was cracking his rear window. After 3 windows they checked it out and found it was slightly warped from the tack welding. He just had them tap out the warped section and never happened again. He ended up getting another 10 and ported box. Never cracked.

 

wow...

 

Yeah I kinda go overboard some times. But hey thats my job; analyzing, R&D, and problem solving. Got a background in applied sciences and physics. Im currently persuing an optics degree in my spare time. Physics of the propagation of light, potential technichological uses, and of theoretical future technologies.

So again, I tend to go over board. I wascalculating and rechecking those numbers for a little bit this morning. Researching harmonics, glass properties, typical displacement of seated windshield depending on seating media, and structural fatigue properties of laminated automotive glass. So every thing in that is best case.

 

You are awesome man ^ oh and i do have only 1 10"... so i don't know what you're talking about andyisphat

 

Well if you want to upgrade, I've got 2 12" volfenhag comp subs 1000watts RMS each. You know if you wanna solve that pesky windshield problem.

 

damn nice but I really like the box i have now and would hate to find a monster of an amp to power those bad boys.

 

Easy Think Noah's Ark:

2 X 1000watt amps
2 X 1.0 ferid caps
2 X amp install kits
2 X 20 amp
2 X RCA cables
1 X Big A$$ boat of a box to hold it all.

 

Progressive does awesome jobs. They did my Z and couldn't be happier. I recommend them to everyone.

 

Saw your car on the road last week, on H1 headed west. You was with your GF. I was in the big *** blue Sears van honking... might have scared you... LOL.

I saw your car and I was like "son of a *****," someone's running my setup... then I remembered your car. LOL. That color actually looks black in low light. Nice.

Still wanting to do that photoshoot, but I need to find some time...

I dig your car... some wheels will complete it.

 

YOU!!! haha i remember hearing a horn honk really near by me but i couldn't figure out where it came from. wasn't even sure if the honking was for me but it caught my attention. next time make sure you're in your Z so i can honk back. We can do some morse code honking while on the freeway in traffic
Hehe sorry for jacking your look, but when I get rims and kit i'll make sure it's as different from your as possible (havoc kit perhaps?...lol ya right!). Also, I was thinking of tinting my tail lights. I've seen it done and it def looks dif from tinted red tail lights. Think i should or did it look nice as it was when you saw?? appreciate your info on the matter c22
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....81#post4450581 (on the bottom)

 

mike, i understand why it keeps cracking, but safelite cant figure it out.

 

I was trying to make a "take picture" sign language motion... but I was scared that I was going to hit the person in front of me.

I actually like it not smoked. I say leave it as is. Don't get me wrong, I'm not claiming anything... and you're not jacking nothing. Not everybody can afford the JDM tails. I say keep it as is. I really want a closer look at your car. Looks like you dropped it also. Again, love the SM blue.

 

props to you bro, talkn bout known your **** inside and out