whats the highest hp you have brought out of your shop with a greddy twin
set up from a 350z?
and if you could give an estimate of the total cost it was....
thanks

 

mikes car (punisher) is going to be the top. He is fully built, and is shooting for 650rwhp. Im pretty sure that will be the highest. You are looking at investing 20-25k in order to do it right.
Greddy twins - 6k
utec - 1k
built motor - 8k
exhaust, clutch, gages, test pipes, suspension, wheels, tires, brakes.....it all adds up and then install and tune on top of it.

 

i always wondered why people dont do the 3in straight from downpipe to muffler tip, i had that on my supra just a n1 exhaust at the end

 

i am running a 3in jic from my downpipe back. i think you lose backpressure if you just run straight pipes. also twins use test pipes vice downpipe

 

Yeah Im shooting for 2 levels low boost arround 500-550 ish and a High boost of 650ish; or what ever 18psi will get me on pump with what I gots under the hood. More is always great too More return on my investment.

I got an extesive list of mods but its not quite done yet. The things that are a must at this stage in the game are DSS Level 5 half shafts and a BBK. Well unless I want her to be a DYNO QUEEN..... UM YEAH FUKC THAT NOISE!.

There are alot of other supporting mods that go into making power. Not just the power itself but reliable bower. Shure you can push 600 once on a stock block. Thats power but not reliabley.

The key is, and I always say this; is do your research and work backwards from where you want to be. Get to understand what your up against. Learn from the oops'es and oh-****'s of the other guys. Simple things like HKS laminated HG's opossed to stockers, up gradded head studs dependant on power levels. Radiator is a big one, the stock is sooo tiny and cute. The more power thats pushed the more heat thats generated.

That brings into play alot of the support mods. Upgraded PS cooler, high temp clutch fluid, high temp brake fluid, ss braided clutch and brake lines. Those tend to boil alot easier when your running heavy boost. Last thing you want is to have your brakes go spongey or you clutch stick to the floor. THAT SUCKS WHEN YOUR GOING FAST!!!

Its like a snow ball. I still have a crap load of little things to clean it up once it comes out of the shop. Like finaly installing all the fore mentioned stuff. Hunting down the DS's and Brakes.

All said and done my car was originaly built because I wanted to do time attack, so there are alot of other things in volved besides just the power. As of right now I realy dont care to say the EXACT dollar amout but add about 5 or 10k to Andy's amount and your in the ball park.

But thats full package. A dyno queen will cost you considerably less. for simple no frills forged motor, Twins, clutch, EMS and thats it your looking at close to 16K installed and tuned. But the max you push on that is about err about 500 before other MAJOR factors come into play.

Supra, if your Interested in the mods thus far man, PM me and I'll shoot them out to you. To take a look at.

 

oh and little not we do to have down pipes. :P

They are REAL SMALL. Like 6 or 8 inches. Thats where the wastegates conect and recerc. I'll see If I got pics of them.

EDIT: here you go.

You can see the back side of the turbo, the dump port for the wastegates that were blocked off, the relocation kit,wastegate, and the atmo dump tube.

 

hey punish her,
thanks for the posts some good info.....
im thinking about going with sharifs shortblock and greddy TT stage 2
that he sells as a base...and going from there....i just wanted to know if
there were shops that can tune that high cause "other" shops in town
have told me they have installed many TT but only get them to 350-360
out of the box so i wanted to know if some have gone as far as say 550-600
.....mine would be primarily for drag racing not DD

 

With a boost controller mine got me 413WHP @ 7.9 psi and roughly 450 at about 9.5psi (never dynod that one).

With the block I see on their page I see a few little things you will need. Yes that short block will hold 600+ but... there are a few other things that you will need. ARP Rod studs, which I dont see mentioned. If you dont upgrde these stretching may occure under temp and revs and you could get piston slap. So upgrade to ALL ARP fasteners. Second, you want head studs. You will be hard pressed to get alot of power with out blowing a gasket on the stockers.

At a min go with the L19 head studs. The only problem with those are, yes you increase the tensil strength but you put more stress on the threads them sevles. If you went with machined timecerts and half inch you increase the surfase area of the threads and they can provide SO much more clamping force. But the heads have to be machined to.

If you can help it I realy personaly wouldnt recomend a short block. When they deck the mating surface they may not match EXACTLY. This slight diffrencecan provide an uneven seat or torque the head and makes you more ceceptable to blowing gaskets. Especialy if your going for higher powers.

Also going with the long block pays off more in the long run to. PERFECT time to upgrade to the 1/2" head studs. Most places offer the install of the path finder rear cylinder cooling set up real cheap with their long block. This is almost esentail especialy since you are wanting to drag. You get a fresh head build that way top and bottem ends are match wear together, for servicing purposes it just makes it easier. If you want cams or cam gears this makes labor ALOT cheaper (but not necessary for decent power). It also saves on labor too. If you send the just the bottom end you have to pay the labor for removal and instalation. If your doing the long block thats money thats saved. In the long run its usualy cheaper and safer going with a long block. The only thing your paying extra for is the machining.

My personal recomendation is go with builtZmotors. They have given my self and redline GREAT customer service and bent over backwards to help in any way they can. The best customer service I've seen from any company. I've sent many people to them and none of them have come back unhappy. Tell him Mike from Hawaii sent you when you get your quote and you will get a decent deal. I've done ALOT of businiess with Todd and he has never steared me wrong. Shoot him a line and see what you can get.

If your interested, I'll drop a line with a rough idea of what you want that way its less time for a responce. Just let me know man.

Since you are dragging 500 and above, you will need half shafts and a fairly decent clutch to hold that torque. Spec has some good clutches as well as a few others. Id recomend researching what you like. Mine is a stage 5 spec single plate clutch good for over 720ft/lbs, its a little noisy though.

You also need to think about an upgraded LSD. The stock one just wont cut it at those leves and dragging. Again do your home work for what you want. Mine is the Tomei Technitrax 2 way with just under 80% lock. SNAP CRACKLE POP! But it is tons of fun in turns. Soooo predictable.

I didnt see his stage 2 greddy kit, but things you will need in adition to the basic greddy kit: EMS (EB SUCKS A$$), Injectors to meet your levels, BOV, FMIC, Boost controler, fuel return system, walbro 255 fuel pump, and boost gauge.

Again as you see its realy not a simple matter of, "Hmm I'll put this on and get power!" There are little details that are missing to make the big picture. If you have any questions feel free to ask man. There are several of us that are a little ahead of you build wise at all diffrent levels. Most questions can be answered fairly easily, if not between us we can get some info for you. As you can tell Im usualy the wordier of the bunch .

 

So you made any decisions yet?
One thing thats over looked alot is the GTM 3.8 stroker. Its not too bad price wise. I think its a crank, rods and pistons. No machining of the block necessary and you get the increase in displacement and power.

 

haha! nah not yet still looking, saw that 10 sec pass that injected performance did so i was checking what they had as well....i thought about
a stroker as well, but we will see.... i will let ya guys know

 

To get alot of power you will end up spending a minimum of probably $20K-$25K. It's honestly not all that bad to building most other cars to make alot of power. It just adds up. The more power you want the more things you need. After about 450whp it kinda spirals out of control.

 

Ummmm on that note +1