Well i got bored and since kamu didnt post this up. my motor is gone.. . was short on money to tune it. at the time i had $46 in my checking account. so i couldnt get it tuned like i wanted to. so the result was a washed out #6 cylinder. kamu was trying to explain to me why cylinder six was the problem spot. so ill try my best to re-explain it. the way the fuel pressure regulator works is by increasing the resistance to flow by making the hole smaller that the fuel leaves the rails. sorry if thats a terrible explanation. but the hole is near cylinder 6 meaning that cylinder 6 would be the one that would have the greatest fuel pressure vs. the other cylinders. again sorry if im not really good at explaining this >.<. so while i was making a right turn at approx 20mph the motor decided to let go. there was a slight pop then smoke everywhere. the smoke was comming out of the drivers side exhaust. the car died and i was stranded in hawaii kai. kamu walked back to his house to get the obd2 scanner and it only had bad things. the main concern was knock in cylinder 6. so we towed it to the shop and kamu did the magical diagnoser thinggy. and so we got the dip stick and it smelt like gas. the next day he drained the oil and it smelt like gas more than oil. so now came the actual damage report. the block as of right now is estimated to be unsaveable. after trying to crank the motor by hand, it wouldnt go. theres probably a big gouge in the cylinder wall. so now for the new plans. after doing a little bit of research and kamu explaining to me about sleeves. i opted to stay with open deck because i want more than just a quarter mile car. i want to have more of a curcuit car. so heres my list of things to get..

New Motor
JE 8.5:1 Pistons
Eagle Rods
ARP L19 Headstuds
HKS Headgasket

With this setup im gonna try to go for about 500whp until i can get the proper supporting mods to get up into the 600+whp area. now cost is always an issue. but with me i love to do the build on a budget thing. so ill document the cost on most of the items. the build we be done at kamus shop(oahu automotive specialist) and hopefully the car will be ready for tuning in decemeber.

Lessons Learned:
Tuning is Really Important
Running rich can kill your motor just as easily as too lean
400whp got boring =)

 

I know what happened to cylinder 6 its just dont really know how it happened. Stuck injector cause of to high a fuel pressure. But i do know the motor is seized right now. Punish_her could you chime in on this. Its the first time i actually saw this happen. Im not sure as to why cylinder 6 got washed out if it did. Maybe it didnt help that when ryan was driving his z the gas gauge decided to tell him he had a half tank but in reality it was pretty much running on fumes. That could of atributted to the demise of the motor. Maybe his #6 cylinder didnt have spark and wasnt burning the gas, then the piston seized. Ryan I was reading the explanation that i told you and it didnt make sense to me sorry for that. Wouldnt all the cylinders still get the same amount of pressure? We wont know till i rip this motor apart to see what exactly happened. You never know ryan your car might be up and running by the time you come back in November. Damn it! wish i was more knowledgeble. On a sided note your motor will be out soon. Just got to wait for you on the parts. Ill give you a call later. peace
-Kamu

 

o yea it will be done at my dads shop but i will be doing the work. If i do get stuck my dad will be there to help me along. Ryan you put alot of trust in me and i appreciate that and hope not to let you down bro.

 

Your answer is in your responce man. Simple fluid dynamics. Its a closed system and only one injector is usualy open at one time for a split moment in time. SOOOO that would mean all pulses are at the same presssure all the sime. With a stuck injector, that is the path of least resistance. Pressure will drop greatly through that cylinder. When the other pulses open up they get less pressure and fule.

So with you running rich most of that was from cylinder 6 injector being stuck open. Washing the cylinder. I'd also check the plugs of the other 5 cylinders, they had the probability of running lean due to lack of pressure. But yeah washing the cylinder is like running on no oil. So yeah it will seaze.

 

sorry to hear about ur engine man, I'm super it'll come out good when you get it back up and running.

 

wtf happened while i was away

 

Told you man when I called, there was alot of crap arround that you missed. Poor Seth, he's gotta lot of catching up to do.

 

It sounds like you hydra locked the motor with fuel. Might still be salvagable. I've had a similar thing happen. A customer had some stereo stuff installed in his car and they had a hole in the engine harness to the car. He washed his car and the water went on the EU and injectors all locked open. Flooded till it couldn't turn. After clearing everything out and fixing their leak it went on to making mid 400s with no problems.

 

You know I dint even think of that possibility. Thats where experience comes in. I've only dealt with washing from V-8 world.

 

Give me a call before you do anything drastic like take the motor out. I can more than likely fix it provided you didn't bend any rods. Trying to understand your story I think it's more than likely salvagable. Its probably not as bad as you think.

 

^^so you think you can save it.... cause if you do then ryan will be saving quite a bit of cash. I cant even turn the motor by hand. At first the night we brought it to the shop we tried to start it the starter couldnt even turn the damn thing. The cylinder wall is more than likely pretty fcked for the piston to completely stop the rest of the motor from turning. +1 for sonics if you can fix this. We went with this route of building cause we called bzm and spoke with todd i believe and he said it would be 3100 for a basic bottom end and a $1000 core charge for a usable bottom end, dont know his exact diffinition of usable. So total for this would come out to $4100 not including shipping. We have a spare motor less than 4,000 miles on it then you add all the goodies that ryan has mentioned above and we are looking at about $5100 installed. But then again if it is saveble we wont have to worry about this.

 

One way you can check if there is fluid in there is pull the plug then rotate it by hand. Pulling the plug is well; unplugging it. Tthe fluid will not compress. As the piston comes to TDC and if it was hydrolocked, then fluid wil come up to the spark plug hole or at least be accessable to a check. You realy want to avoid having it push out the fuel onto engine bay. There is a big and verry evident risk in that.

You can put a peice of tygon or some small diameter hose down the hole. When in there, you can plug the top end and its like dipping a straw in a drink and putting you finger over it. If its straight and long enough to touch the piston you can get an idea of exactly how much fluid is down there.

The tube being clear, when touching the bottom; the fluid height in the tube is the actual depth. Then its simple math of volume. For stock piston you want to multiply the height of the water in mm by .0065 to get the standing volume of the fluid in liters. (a cubic mm to liter conversion)

 

damn punish_her always gotta show off. jp man. Ill try that later today. Ill take pictures if i find anything. I cant believe im still up... stupid math exam today and it almost 3:30 am here.

 

Nah... Im just bored and in a technical mood. Im taking 2 classes online now, and studying for dive certification So I've spent the past several hours manualy calculating the wave length division transmitted in 64 bit binary code from a celluar call accessing the network, the appropriate way to sight internet pornography in a paper, and how not to kill my self while diving. The volume thing was kind of a nice distraction.

Yeah I know Im a NERD!!! At least I dont wear glasses any more.

 

i think even if the bottom end is salvagable im still gonna go ahead with the build. 400 was good but i think its time to step it up and since the motor is pretty much already out of the car and should be opened up by today might as well go ahead with it. if its just hydralock even better because at least ill save me some cash and not need to buy a new motor. so ill just keep my fingers crossed that it is hydralock and if not o well. but i got my mind pretty much set on building it. if its hydralocked that would be even better. just means i can get my fuel mods in order to get to the power levels im shooting for. only problem is that clutch is gonna have to go even though its pretty much brand new >.<

 

You have to pull the plugs and poor oil down each cylinder and slowly crank it back and forth by hand. When you wash the wall you're taking off all the oil so friction increases significantly. Hence why it seems like its seized. I've seen this before. I've fixed this before. I've seen everything before. Also I have a fiberoptic scope so I can actually see if theres significant damage to the walls. Might as well try and get it fixed. If your fuel setup is not right and you throw in a brand new engine. Lets just say washing the walls on a brand new engine is way more devestating.

 

ill tell kamu to give you a call. as of right now my car is pretty much in his hands since im off island again.

 

oh btw the thing about fuel pressure being greatest at number six is wrong. pressure is relatively equal across. you simply flooded all the cylinders

 

Yea i corrected myself in the post i made. It didnt help it was like 3:00 in the morning, hardly any sleep the day before. Me and Ryan chasing each other around in our z's. I do know that just because im replacing the motor it doesnt solve the problem of why the motor did what it did. Ill be the first to admit that i have quite a ways to learn anything about cars but ive been blessed to learn from the best.

 

Yeah I was looking into it more last night about the pressure drop with a stuck injector. The pump is strong enough that the pulse width of the other 5 injectors does not effect the pressure signifacantly. So the pressure drop with the stuck injector is the pressure transfered throughout the system.

I an incorrect assumption about the strength of the pump. The way I described it earlier in the thread is closer to what happens in an appartment that does not have sufficient water pressure and some one flushes or turns on a faucet. You see a noticable drop in pressure. But again that would be with insificient pressure.

Thanks for the catch man. I learn more and more every day.