Don't know for sure, someone I know solved another EMS hot start problem by tuning the car at 48psi - so i'll let you know.

 

Please do. I'm confident that fi it can be done, my guy will do it. I havn't talked to my tuner about it yet

 

You should definately have improvement in cold starts. The vacuum during cranking will lower pressure and assist in the cold start. Cold start does take extra fuel... But with the stock ecu already handling that, the larger injectors compound that factor and over-do it. The reduction in pressure while cranking will take care of a portion of that

 

So the boost works against the fuel pressure. That makes perfect sense, now that you've explained it. Since an NA car has no boost to counteract the fuel pressure, it doesn't seem like an NA car would ever need a return fuel system.

Thanks for the explanation, Hal.

 

sweet!

 

Correct, an NA car wouldnt need a RFS for increased capacity and what not... however it doesnt still have a slight advantage in the fact that you can tune your fuel pressure!!! this can aid in tuning, and can aid in slight adjustments as climates change and what not. i would often tweak my fuel pressure a psi here or there if my car was running lean or rich for the night.

 

Wow, Charles this is exactly the answer to my thoughts of "Holy Crap I gotta drop $1K on a fuel return system when I MAY not need it for a basic Vortech build." This is awesome and I'll definitely be getting a Stage 0 now when I go Vortech in a month or two. Thanks!

 

Haha, I think a lot of us sub-400hp guys were thinking the same thing!

 

Will deachwerks injectors fit your rails? Thinking of the Stage 1 kit.

 

They sure will! We recommend them.

 

I just noticed this on JWT's website suggesting that the fuel rails be drilled out for high HP applications - http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...UEL_SYSTEM.pdf

Would you suggest this with the Stage 0 setup? Is there no point to this if you only need to support 400 hp?

 

it definately isnt going to hurt anything, so why not? to increase flow into the rails will only help remove bias in the series layout

 

I just got it installed and I must say, it is a lot easier than I imagined - even when I messed up the install the first time lol.

Charles answered all my calls but I think we were both on vacation or something so I can't expect him to make this promise to everyone.

I got a used FPR I bought to troubleshoot my post-install problem (which turned out to be a swirl jet hole size), if anyone wants it - Charles can sell you a kit without an FPR to make it cheaper.

Anyway - I turned my psi way down to fix the hot start problem and this definitely wasn't possible without this kit. I'm doing 44psi without the vacuum line going to the plenum and tuning it that way.

If it's not obvious already, turning down the fuel psi will definitely affect your tune.

My hot start problem is close to 90% gone, I'm sure the last 10% is due to my UTEC 0% column numbers.

 

I'm curious if there's a real point to this since the stage 0 kit uses your stock rail AND your stock fuel feed in it's entirety - including the infamous fuel 'dampener' (http://liljerk.morpheus.net/350Z/fue...s/DSC02348.JPG).

So the real question is, without bypassing the dampener - will there be a point in opening up these rail orifices ?

BTW - the stage 1 bypasses this completely

 

glad that the problem was just the jet size!

for those of you that didnt know, when you use a walbro 255lph pump, you need to enlarge the opening in the yellow venturi shown here:



if you do not, your regulator will not be able to adjust fuel pressure where you want it at idle.

 

lol - up late as always, I owe you pix which I WILL get soon. Gotta get under the car for you

 

btw, the problem was my bit sizes were marked retardedly. I found that my 5/64 bit was the correct one to use (5/64 = 0.078125)

 

how low are you able to get the pressure at idle now with that size? i would figure mid 30s if not lower

i should add that 5/64 to the how-to for the walbro, since a lot of people have PMd me with trouble finding a bit since i list it in decimal

 

(not my car)

I see a lot of you guys running a small fuel pressure gauge on an adapter under the hood. I've been thinking about doing that to see what my fuel pressure is.

I looked on the CJM site, but couldn't find a search tool or a fuel pressure gauge. Will any fuel pressure gauge work? I'm thinking the vibrations and heat might be pretty hard on a gauge mounted directly to the engine.

Any recommendations?

 

ya we actually do not sell anything for only installing a fuel pressure gauge such as in that picture. unless you have made changes to your fuel system, your fuel pressure will still be at stock