G35 NA stroker with ITBs
Thread Starter
Vendor - Former Vendor
iTrader: (27)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 11
From: Louisville, KY
Z1, thanks. The Haltech has no problem with the cable throttle, I just ran the new TPS wires into the factory TPS1 wires and did a quick recalibrate in the Ecu Manager. Of course removing the factory throttle motor, dual throttle position sensors as well as the accelerator pedal position sensor throws CELs initially, but there is nothing the car can do about it considering we control 100% of the engine through Haltech. It obviously can't shut the throttle body, turn off the injectors, reduce cam timing to 0, etc because we have complete control of all of those.
My main concern was keeping the VDC system alive, and after deleting a few codes in the factory computer, everything operates properly and warning-light free.
Mack, if it's not made for the Z/G, what is it made for?
Thanks for always picking up the phone and doing your best to get answers for me.
My main concern was keeping the VDC system alive, and after deleting a few codes in the factory computer, everything operates properly and warning-light free.
Mack, if it's not made for the Z/G, what is it made for?
Thanks for always picking up the phone and doing your best to get answers for me.
Thread Starter
Vendor - Former Vendor
iTrader: (27)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 11
From: Louisville, KY
We hope to test this in the not-so-distant future. While the Cosworth has proven great gains for forced induction, I have only done a small amount of Cosworth testing on an NA setup. My initial response would definitely favor the ITBs, though they carry a higher price tag and much more involved install.
Z1, thanks. The Haltech has no problem with the cable throttle, I just ran the new TPS wires into the factory TPS1 wires and did a quick recalibrate in the Ecu Manager. Of course removing the factory throttle motor, dual throttle position sensors as well as the accelerator pedal position sensor throws CELs initially, but there is nothing the car can do about it considering we control 100% of the engine through Haltech. It obviously can't shut the throttle body, turn off the injectors, reduce cam timing to 0, etc because we have complete control of all of those.
My main concern was keeping the VDC system alive, and after deleting a few codes in the factory computer, everything operates properly and warning-light free.
Mack, if it's not made for the Z/G, what is it made for?
Thanks for always picking up the phone and doing your best to get answers for me.
My main concern was keeping the VDC system alive, and after deleting a few codes in the factory computer, everything operates properly and warning-light free.
Mack, if it's not made for the Z/G, what is it made for?
Thanks for always picking up the phone and doing your best to get answers for me.
Looks like you went past 8k, but I've found on a dyno that the tach reads above the actual rpm pick up. In other words, I let off at 7k rpms, but the dyno shows only 6600.
Can any of the pros confirm that the stock tach reads ahead (deliberately perhaps)?
EDIT: wonder if the Haltech reports true RPMs or reports what the stock tach shows... Hal?
Can any of the pros confirm that the stock tach reads ahead (deliberately perhaps)?
EDIT: wonder if the Haltech reports true RPMs or reports what the stock tach shows... Hal?
Last edited by rcdash; Oct 1, 2008 at 09:04 AM.
What are the intentions of this car? Show car, track car, daily driver or all of the above?
What is the exact compression of the street compression stroker kit?
Lastly, which crank was supplied with the kit? The newer 86.4mm stroke?
Thanks in advance
What is the exact compression of the street compression stroker kit?
Lastly, which crank was supplied with the kit? The newer 86.4mm stroke?
Thanks in advance





is all I got after driving it...can't shoot video bc its raining



