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deep breath deep breath ... sign ... I think its done... wrapped everything up/bolted back on. Primed the fuel pump (via the ignition) and had a very very small fuel leak which was easily fixed. Did another once other and it was good.
Started the car for about 10 seconds and everything was good...did another 1minute run and then a 3 minute run...Everything looks good. The car is smoking from the engine bay but I think it's the excess anti-seize paste on the joints.
I'll try to get it up on a lift for some better pictures but here's how she sits now...
Some of the better pics are not loading ... none of the pics are great but it came out alright.
I'd like to put a cover over the fuel lines for good/better measure ...
(Against DKMura's postings) Toyos R888r will run a square setup for the time being. Would love to find a set of 18x8.5"/9" rpf1s for the fronts...we'll see
had the car out tonight and I'm only hitting 6psi of boost...I was watching everything else and I thought the car felt slower...it didnt dawn until I started hearing my dump pipes open up and I was only at 6psi.
the only thing I can think of is that I hooked my vacuum lines to the waste gates up backwards...I have 14psi springs which yield around 12psi of boost but I've since dialed my boost controller (in open loop) up to where I was holding 15psi before the new exhaust...
midnight edit:
Put the car up in the air and checked the vac hoses between the boost control solenoid and waste gates. Everything checked out.
Checked all my connections between the cold side of the blowers and the TB ... including my boost reference port - all checked out.
Took the waste gates off to ensure the brass valve seat ring was in place and sure enough it was in place on both gates...with that being said, if I ever meet Jeramiah (sucker punch motor sports) I owe that guy a beer ... took me 30minutes to remove, check and replace the waste gates...
I dont know why it'd be different but (assuming the weather holds) I'll be disconnecting the boost control solenoid (prob just turn it off in the haltech) and see how the boost climbs with no influence.
wastegate didn't fix mine. Hopefully there's a low hanging fruit I find tomorrow AM so I can make it to the drag strip after spending all of that $ on tires and a diff brace
Sorry to hear Bealljk. I'm not to familiar with turbo setups but would like to offer some help. By chance, did you by check you BOVs, you only mentioned your wastegates.
Reason being is that I had a recent issue with mine due to the vacuum line having a tear, so I wasn't releasing air pressure my BPV for my Vortech setup under normal driving. So in your situation perhaps Your BOVs are not holding pressure due to this. The vacuum lines may be connected to the right places but a hole or two would probably throw your car off.
That is my next place to check too, bluestream. Smoke tester is coming out in the morning tmrro and I may take the BOV off before that for the heck of it.
So Bealljk, your car is smooth in boost just doesn't reach your target? Or is it rough like mine is in boost? I'm getting some bucking when boost comes in. Super sketch.
It is concerning that your boost level is so much lower than your SPRING pressure... hmm.
PS 14 lb springs- nice bro haha. I am rocking small blue 11.x psi but really yields 9
Sorry to hear Bealljk. I'm not to familiar with turbo setups but would like to offer some help. By chance, did you by check you BOVs, you only mentioned your wastegates.
Reason being is that I had a recent issue with mine due to the vacuum line having a tear, so I wasn't releasing air pressure my BPV for my Vortech setup under normal driving. So in your situation perhaps Your BOVs are not holding pressure due to this. The vacuum lines may be connected to the right places but a hole or two would probably throw your car off.
Hope you find out what's wrong.
Thanks and it's all good ... I'll get it figured out.
I'm running a modified greddy 18g kit
I didn't disassemble anything on the intake side but did a once over on the waste gate, Boost Control Solenoid, BOV, vac lines, and all my couplers - but everything was solid.
Originally Posted by yosip1115
That is my next place to check too, bluestream. Smoke tester is coming out in the morning tmrro and I may take the BOV off before that for the heck of it.
So Bealljk, your car is smooth in boost just doesn't reach your target? Or is it rough like mine is in boost? I'm getting some bucking when boost comes in. Super sketch.
It is concerning that your boost level is so much lower than your SPRING pressure... hmm.
PS 14 lb springs- nice bro haha. I am rocking small blue 11.x psi but really yields 9
It's smooth nothing jerky or rougher than expected. Yea, I think it's pretty standard that the spring rates/spring designation are nominal...I assumed it was due to my elevation that the spring only holds 12psi. It's almost moot bc the boost controller starts to influence the waste gate valve action.
It should be noted that I have my open loop boost control activated with values in the table that held my waste gates shut up to 15psi prior to my exhaust work.
sooo...7am update - I'm wondering if by changing the exhaust (and I'd say a significant enough change) and the exhaust back pressure if that is influencing the amount of exhaust pressure that the waste gate valve is experiencing?
2 possible situations...
#1 bc the exhaust back pressure is less, there is less restriction and exhaust gas can flow easier through the turbine and out the exhaust system. There would be less exhaust pressure on the waste gate and it'd stay shut longer (bc the exhaust gas has an easier flow through the turbo & exhaust system altogether)...
#2 bc the exhaust back pressure is less, more exhaust pressure is pushing up against the waste gate valve and pushing it open sooner in my rev range...
The car is still up in the air, I'll see about getting it out tonight and deactivating my boost control solenoid...
Thanks and it's all good ... I'll get it figured out.
I didn't disassemble anything on the intake side but did a once over on the waste gate and all my couplers - but everything was solid.
It's smooth nothing jerky or rougher than expected. Yea, I think it's pretty standard that the spring rates/spring designation are nominal...I assumed it was due to my elevation that the spring. It's almost moot bc the boost controller starts to influence the waste gate valve action.
sooo...7am update - I'm wondering if by changing the exhaust (and I'd say a significant enough change) and more so the exhaust back pressure if that is influencing the amount of exhaust pressure that the waste gate is experiencing?
To me it's completely backwards - 2 viable situations...
#1 bc the exhaust back pressure is less that means there is less restriction and exhaust gas can flow easier through the turbine and out the exhaust and there would be less exhaust pressure on the waste gate and it'd stay shut longer (bc the exhaust gas has an easier flow through the turbo & exhaust system)
#2 bc the exhaust back pressure is less, that mean more exhaust pressure is pushing up against the waste gate valve and pushing it open sooner in my rev range...
#1 is true
Boost pressure ratings for springs are derived in a controlled environment. Known pressure, temperatures, head losses of all tubing, etc. I find it interesting and fun to guess what you will actually get.
Elevation, temperature, exhaust flow, all effect what pressure you actually get as you know, and especially this:
If you were recirculating back into the exhaust instead of using dump tubes then a decrease in exhaust pressure would result in your Wg opening sooner since there is less pressure pushing on the back side of the valve plunger keeping it closed. Same springs will make more boost without dump tubes than with.
Power? different story. Will take more boost pressure to make same power while recirculating.
Since you aren't recirculating, there is always just atmospheric pressure on the back side of the WG valve, so a change in exhaust flow will have a smaller effect.
You should have noted a slightly lower boost pressure and more hp/tq (+ potentially a more square hp/tq #)
The boost pressure would differentiate by just a few pounds if that for the change you made like with my car for example; when I went from 445 @ 12.5lb to 475 @ 11.3lb going from no dump tubes to dump tubes AND I put a better flowing catback on. That is a huge increase in exhaust cross sectional area. Something is f'd up if your boost pressure reduced by half.
I owe Jeremiah a beer too, even after essentially buying them twice by having to have someon re-tig weld, I am still satisfied with my dump tube purchase.
You should have noted a slightly lower boost pressure and more hp/tq (+ potentially a more square hp/tq #)
It's hard for me to tell my power / butt dyno levels bc I'm only making 6psi - other than the car feels slower on account of 1/2 the boost pressure...once I realized it, it was crazy obvious that the dumps were opening up around 4k rpm and my boost was steady at 6psi from 4k to 6k rpms...
Originally Posted by yosip1115
Something is f'd up if your boost pressure reduced by half.
y'up...
Originally Posted by yosip1115
I owe Jeremiah a beer too, even after essentially buying them twice by having to have someon re-tig weld, I am still satisfied with my dump tube purchase.
with my ****-show stillen test pipe / flex hose / a zillion o2 sensors I needed to modify them. With this new setup, the only mod I had to do was cut/rotate ~15 degrees/reweld the wg-to-dumppipe flange so that the small curved dump tube (after the wg) would clear the 3" downpipe.
regardless - I don't know that I can hold him accountable for that...I think we should crowd-fund him a 6 pack of beer...
welded/fab'd 3" caps to pressure test my cold-side intake and I did find two small leaks ... one on the driver side filter to turbo pipe (couldnt care less as it'll never see positive boost pressure) and a similar small leak on the drivers side turbo to IC right at the cold side housing/pipe connection...nothing close to ~9psi worth but I'll get it tightened up.
Also took off my filter-to-turbo pipes and wiggled the impeller blades and no significant play ... I think I felt a tiny bit (and it all might be in my head) on the passenger side but nothing significant and both spin freely.
put 12volts against the boost control solenoid to verify it was clicking and it was
Uploaded a new map with the BCS values zero'd out...got everything back together a little before dusk.
Got the car out and it pulled like it was supposed to...got to ~12 to 14psi on the gauge somewhat consistently - did maybe 5 or 6 hard pulls.
I have no idea what to attribute to this - from where I'm sitting now I am thinking something was faulty/not working with the boost control solenoid...I'll repopulate the BCS with some values similar to what was in there before and give it another go.
That's good and bad, keep me up dated on the shaft play...
It's always good to have a leak test setup around, you'll get some real use out of it one day. But for now sounds like you will be alright unless this comes back again god forbid. I still see no circumstance that BC values would result in boost lower than spring pressure. Let us know how the testing goes.
Any chance it was a gage error? I know you thought it felt slow, but there is not that much to go wrong to cause under boosting... Except my case, but you checked your shaft play.
Just ordered another $1100 or so worth of goodies for preventative+repairs:
That's good and bad, keep me up dated on the shaft play...
it was minimal and it may have just been me and I was really reaching into the engine bay to feel for it...but it'd be wise to keep an eye on it over the next 6 - 12 months...
Originally Posted by yosip1115
It's always good to have a leak test setup around, you'll get some real use out of it one day.
yea - if anyone needs a 3" leak down tester kit let me know!
Originally Posted by yosip1115
I still see no circumstance that BC values would result in boost lower than spring pressure. Let us know how the testing goes.
Any chance it was a gage error? I know you thought it felt slow, but there is not that much to go wrong to cause under boosting... Except my case, but you checked your shaft play.
I'm not sure - I think next time I have the car out I'll re-upload that map and just see what it does ... a part of me thinks the solenoid got stuck...but even that doesn't make full sense?
it could have been a gauge error, more likely user error! I run mechanical gauges so it's not like a sensor is going out. If I am perceiving this correctly the dump tubes were pushing exhaust out very audible.
Originally Posted by yosip1115
Just ordered another $1100 or so worth of goodies for preventative+repairs:
Crush washers, gaskets, couplings, new filters, new T bolt clamps, the whole 9 yards.
That's over $1750 this month after the wastegate, tires, diff brace. I better see some 12's or high 11's...
dang man! Spending some green! You got a build thread somewhere?
that earls filter looks sexy as hell! I wouldn't worry too too too much about it, but the reason I went with a Peterson was their size. A guy on a local forum advised (back in the day) that the smaller inline filters are nice but if they clog-up (due to big stuff getting trapped or failure to clean out on a consistent basis) than it's instant death to your turbo. That one looks of decent size.
If you want me to fab-up a bracket send me a sketch with some dimensions.
I'm not sure - I think next time I have the car out I'll re-upload that map and just see what it does ... a part of me thinks the solenoid got stuck...but even that doesn't make full sense?
No it doesn't aha. Stuck open would over boost. Stuck closed would yield spring pressure.
Originally Posted by bealljk
it could have been a gauge error, more likely user error! I run mechanical gauges so it's not like a sensor is going out. If I am perceiving this correctly the dump tubes were pushing exhaust out very audible.
Hmmm if they were screamin then you should be at spring pressure or greater. Let's see if this problem persists.
Originally Posted by bealljk
dang man! Spending some green! You got a build thread somewhere?
James, wtf! Weekend bender? You've REPLIED to my build thread before!
Originally Posted by bealljk
that earls filter looks sexy as hell! I wouldn't worry too too too much about it, but the reason I went with a Peterson was their size. A guy on a local forum advised (back in the day) that the smaller inline filters are nice but if they clog-up (due to big stuff getting trapped or failure to clean out on a consistent basis) than it's instant death to your turbo. That one looks of decent size.
If you want me to fab-up a bracket send me a sketch with some dimensions.
I'll be checking those regularly, will probably change the elements every other oil change or so. It would be wise to monitor oil pressure at the turbos but that is a lot of work and clutter.
edit: Lot of people are talking about having issues with oil filters on the turbo feedlines. Enough that I am pretty much talked out of it at all... Main issue is at idle, when there is barely oil pressure to begin with, and the filter causes too much head loss. With the size of the ones you have you will probably be fine. I need to think twice about adding filtration.
Ok after thinking twice, this is what I am going with
No it doesn't aha. Stuck open would over boost. Stuck closed would yield spring pressure.
what if it was like...halfway stuck? I dont know either...
Originally Posted by yosip1115
Hmmm if they were screamin then you should be at spring pressure or greater. Let's see if this problem persists.
I know! I'm hearing the rush of air out from the underside of the car and staring at my boost gauge wondering wtf?!?!?!?
Originally Posted by yosip1115
James, wtf! Weekend bender? You've REPLIED to my build thread before!
yea...the trick is to put the good **** in the back, your buddies will grab the crown or the whisky with a plastic cap and leave your good stuff untouched...a buddy turned me on to that plantations rum ... pretty smooth over a touch of club soda & ice. If you like dr. pepper, goldschlager/dr. pepper is tasty...
I never see your thread? wt fork?
Originally Posted by yosip1115
I'll be checking those regularly, will probably change the elements every other oil change or so. It would be wise to monitor oil pressure at the turbos but that is a lot of work and clutter.
I'm not a huge fan of the smaller filters ... could be problematic a small filter will clog easier and/or break off?? But use your discretion...I like the nascar stuff...
04-04-2018, 06:12 AM
ebay CHRA lol w/upgraded thrust 
I better see some 12's or high 11's...
