When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If anyone is curious, while the muffler was off I took some measurements:
1. Stock midpipe with oe cat, Nismo y, no muffler: ~95db @3k, ~80db @ 1.5k cold idle. **edit- For all you muffler delete guys out there. **
2. Stock midpipe with oe cat, Nismo y, 3" Vibrant muffler and silencer: ~85db@ 3k, ~76db @ 1.5k cold idle.
3. 3" custom straight midpipe with oe cat, Nismo y, no resonator, and 3" Vibrant muffler no silencer: ~97db @ 3k, ~88db @ 1.5k cold idle.
All measurements were taken standing 4 feet back from behind the car. Living in SoCal and now DD my Z, I went with stock midpipe and 3" muffler with silencer for now, essentially an axle back exhaust. Will have to revisit my exhaust project and add resonators to the midpipe to test and see which I like best while keeping HOA and local authorities happy.
Last edited by mr. sparco; 07-02-2018 at 04:32 PM.
If anyone is curious, while the muffler was off I took some measurements:
1. Stock midpipe with oe cat, Nismo y, no muffler: ~95db @3k, ~80db @ 1.5k cold idle. **edit- For all you muffler delete guys out there. **
2. Stock midpipe with oe cat, Nismo y, 3" Vibrant muffler and silencer: ~85db@ 3k, ~76db @ 1.5k cold idle.
3. 3" custom straight midpipe with oe cat, Nismo y, no resonator, and 3" Vibrant muffler no silencer: ~97db @ 3k, ~88db @ 1.5k cold idle.
All measurements were taken standing 4 feet back from behind the car. Living in SoCal and now DD my Z, I went with stock midpipe and 3" muffler with silencer for now, essentially an axle back exhaust. Will have to revisit my exhaust project and add resonators to the midpipe to test and see which I like best while keeping HOA and local authorities happy.
I thought that was a resonator in the OEM mid-pipe? I am having a custom 3" Y-pipe back, single exit exhaust built. I am going to be using Vibrant parts #1142 (ultra quiet resonator) and #1058 (turbo muffler). I am hoping this is enough to keep sound under 93 decibels at 50 feet and ensure no drone at all, thoughts?
The Akebono kit is pretty straight forward. A couple tips I have after having them on for about a year.
1: You'll have to trim the dust shields for sure
2: Since you trimmed the shields, I get small rocks caught between the caliper and the rim. Slight grinding noise from time to time. I have a nice wear mark on inside drum of the rims. I'm using RPF1s.
3: ConceptZ has special pins caliper pins for this kit. I was using Carbotech pads and the pads sat a little too high and created a ledge after awhile. Not sure about OEM fitment. With the pins the pads are 100% flush with the rotors. (Only an issue with the fronts only I believe)
#3 is something I need. I just installed the front and I thought I installed it incorrectly because the pads sits too high. I thought either the 14” rotors is not really 14” or I went wrong somewhere.
is this what you mean about the issue with the pads with #3? If so, then I suppose I can leave it alone and say I installed it correctly and order that special pin for the pads. I’ll post pic but I have work in 2mins lol
EDIT: on break, here’s some pictures to reference. I wanted to know if anyone or if there’s a site that specifically shows you how the adapter seem to be bolted on exactly. Although after messing around with it and trying different configurations, I think I found it since my rotors sits flushed, but just for insurance, please let me know if so.
Last edited by zwei_the_c; 07-03-2018 at 04:27 PM.
If you look up AAM Competition single, you are basically building something similar to this. They use Vibrant for their muffler and resonator.
Originally Posted by KRyn
I thought that was a resonator in the OEM mid-pipe? I am having a custom 3" Y-pipe back, single exit exhaust built. I am going to be using Vibrant parts #1142 (ultra quiet resonator) and #1058 (turbo muffler). I am hoping this is enough to keep sound under 93 decibels at 50 feet and ensure no drone at all, thoughts?
You might have to run the silencer, I did the testing on 0 load. Didn't drive on it since my car was all taken apart. Right now with just the axle back it is quiet inside the cabin and all the noise is out the back so the stock resonator is doing quite a bit work keeping decibels low.
I think ultimately I'm going to run the 1058 with silencer and 1119 on the midpipe instead of two 1142 with 1058. I'm trying to keep it fairly quiet under 4k rpm for daily.
I was just going to say I don't think mine were that far off. Here are a couple of pics of the outside of mine. Can't see the inner bracket but its better than nothing I suppose. Mines the kit from ConceptZ.
EDIT: on break, here’s some pictures to reference. I wanted to know if anyone or if there’s a site that specifically shows you how the adapter seem to be bolted on exactly. Although after messing around with it and trying different configurations, I think I found it since my rotors sits flushed, but just for insurance, please let me know if so.
If you look up AAM Competition single, you are basically building something similar to this. They use Vibrant for their muffler and resonator.
You might have to run the silencer, I did the testing on 0 load. Didn't drive on it since my car was all taken apart. Right now with just the axle back it is quiet inside the cabin and all the noise is out the back so the stock resonator is doing quite a bit work keeping decibels low.
I think ultimately I'm going to run the 1058 with silencer and 1119 on the midpipe instead of two 1142 with 1058. I'm trying to keep it fairly quiet under 4k rpm for daily.
Thanks for the heads up. The AAM Competition Single doesn't have a resonator in it, so my exhaust shouldn't sound as raspy and high pitched. However, I have a feeling it will still be louder than I want. I will buy Vibrant #1184 as a precaution.
How much better for overall sound reduction will Vibrant 1119 be vs 1142? I haven't built my exhaust yet, just ordered parts so I might order 1119 now and sell the 1142. What about 1103, it would likely fit where the stock resonator is and do an even better job than 1142?
I am unsure of the outcome as I started ordering and experimenting with the Vibrant parts like yourself. I'm trying to build a modular exhaust that that I can swap midpipe or axle back sections or put the stock muffler back on easily in case of a fixit.
Thank you very much you two for the reply. Based on your set-up and what not, I've looked at mine and it's correct. That thread with the DIY looked like it was CZP Bracket which threw me in a chase of why mine doesn't look exactly like his.
I got front installed. The main thing I have an issue is the brake line. The OEM 370Z line works just fine, but the hardline on it doesn't sit well. There's some tension on it to be able to bolt into the Akebono calipers. No brake fluid leak. But feel like it will over time.
I need to get Banjo Bolts to reuse the 350Z OEM lines and swap it on to the Akebonos -or- buy stainless steel kit with the provided banjo bolts. This being said, if any of you guys are in the SoCal, I will be pleased to come pick it up from you and pay you cash.
I need them bad. Z Motorsport is located in SoCal so I'll give them a call tomorrow and get it on tomorrow.
On the side note, the bolts holding the rears calipers is a huge PITA, it will not come out. I either need to raise the car higher to use a longer breaker bar or torch the bolts to break the bonding. Although I don't feel too safe with the brake lines being close.
EDIT: When you guys did the brake fluid flush, did you have to do it on both bleeder screw side? I noticed there's two bleeder screw. One on each side. Just double checking?
Here's the caliper clearing 18x9.5 +22 Rays Gramlight 57XTREME.
Last edited by zwei_the_c; 07-04-2018 at 05:05 PM.
Swapped out rear axle stubs, installed rear diffuser, got exhaust going, powder coated the rear silencer and got the car up and running again. Time for a wash, the car too.
Well, recently been dealing with tires. I'm going after the old school look and wanted to go wide all 4 tires. Nothing drastic just better than the stock width.
After being told by tire place that I could not put 255 on the front of my Z, but I can on the rear I decided to take another angle. Decided to purchase another set of stock wheels pull the plugs on my front rears and I now have rears on the front with the 255 that I wanted.
Just hated when I'm told I can't do something then I got to prove them wrong.
Swapped out rear axle stubs, installed rear diffuser, got exhaust going, powder coated the rear silencer and got the car up and running again. Time for a wash, the car too.
Can you post a sound clip and run down of what you used to build your exhaust whenever you get it finished?
EDIT: When you guys did the brake fluid flush, did you have to do it on both bleeder screw side? I noticed there's two bleeder screw. One on each side. Just double checking?
I did both bleeder screws. I bled the outside bolt first, tightened it back down, and then bled the inside bolt on the caliper. Moved on to the next corner. I think I did the farthest to closest approach (i.e. rear p/s, rear d/s, front p/s, then front d/s). While I was bleeding the caliper, I lightly tapped on the caliper with the wooden handle of my rubber mallet to dislodge any air bubbles that were stuck.
I used a motive power bleeder and about 2 bottles of Motul fluid. Be careful not to let the MC go dry, or else you're in for a real good time.
Well, recently been dealing with tires. I'm going after the old school look and wanted to go wide all 4 tires. Nothing drastic just better than the stock width.
After being told by tire place that I could not put 255 on the front of my Z, but I can on the rear I decided to take another angle. Decided to purchase another set of stock wheels pull the plugs on my front rears and I now have rears on the front with the 255 that I wanted.
Just hated when I'm told I can't do something then I got to prove them wrong.
Not really sure what you did that allowed more room for 255s. You say you bought another of same set. If the wheels in the pics are what you're running now, the front and rear wheel widths of Touring V1s are the same at 8" F&R.
255s will "fit" on any wheel from 8" and up to about 10". Not saying its the right thing thing to do - from a performance standpoint - but for "fit", it's OK.
Not really sure what you did that allowed more room for 255s. You say you bought another of same set. If the wheels in the pics are what you're running now, the front and rear wheel widths of Touring V1s are the same at 8" F&R.
255s will "fit" on any wheel from 8" and up to about 10". Not saying its the right thing thing to do - from a performance standpoint - but for "fit", it's OK.
Yeah was going to say, 18x8s are 18x8s only thing different about those wheels are the little stamp that says front and back...
I remember when I took mine off for the first time I had a front wheel on the back and a back wheel on the front...
07-02-2018, 04:27 PM
