07 Clutch bleeding issues
hey guys,
So i upgraded to customZ's new csc when my stock one went out. i also changed my clutch and flywheel with the DxD southbend. Anyway long story short install went pretty well and its all back together.
The issue that im having now is that when we bleed it the clutch will not get pressue... almost like there is still an airbubble. We have bleed for quite a few hours on friday and sat last weekend and now for several more hours today, the clutch takes about 10-20 pumps to pump up to full pressure. when we bleed it we are not getting any more airbubbles out. checked to make sure that the slave has good throw and it does, moving about half an inch. Tried adjusting the pedal and nothing is seeming to fix it...
Anyone have this happen before? i know ive read that the Z is a pain to bleed, but we have gone past a pain and are at wits end.
Thanks,
Justin
So i upgraded to customZ's new csc when my stock one went out. i also changed my clutch and flywheel with the DxD southbend. Anyway long story short install went pretty well and its all back together.
The issue that im having now is that when we bleed it the clutch will not get pressue... almost like there is still an airbubble. We have bleed for quite a few hours on friday and sat last weekend and now for several more hours today, the clutch takes about 10-20 pumps to pump up to full pressure. when we bleed it we are not getting any more airbubbles out. checked to make sure that the slave has good throw and it does, moving about half an inch. Tried adjusting the pedal and nothing is seeming to fix it...
Anyone have this happen before? i know ive read that the Z is a pain to bleed, but we have gone past a pain and are at wits end.
Thanks,
Justin
gravity bleed dosen't work... you have to
1. slowly compress pedal and relase pedal (about 2 sec each way)
2. wait 5 seconds b4 pushing pedal again
3. repeat about 20 times
4. with pedal on the floor open bleeder (careful pedal dosent move at all)
start all over
when pedal returns fully with one pump it is fully bled
yes it takes 2 people...
oh and make sure the pin in the clutch pedal moves freely (properly adjusted pedal)
1. slowly compress pedal and relase pedal (about 2 sec each way)
2. wait 5 seconds b4 pushing pedal again
3. repeat about 20 times
4. with pedal on the floor open bleeder (careful pedal dosent move at all)
start all over
when pedal returns fully with one pump it is fully bled
yes it takes 2 people...
oh and make sure the pin in the clutch pedal moves freely (properly adjusted pedal)
or do what i do. pump fluid into the bleeder valve with a turkey injector. do that then bleed it, then inject it again, then bleed. do that a few times. a lot less work and works very well.
Last edited by kramykram; Dec 12, 2010 at 07:44 AM.
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I just bled my clutch last night after replacing the recall CSC and new SS clutch line.
Heres the process I had to take (majority of text copied from johnwig):
1. Make sure clutch pedal is adjusted properly, mine had been previously adjust and didn't have enough throw to really get things moving
2. slowly compress pedal and relase pedal (about 2 sec each way)
3. wait 10 seconds b4 pushing pedal again
4. repeat about 10 times - These iterations will drop when you feel pressure building up on the pedal
5. with pedal on the floor open bleeder (careful pedal dosent move at all) - watch all the pretty air bubbles come out and then close the valve
6. Pull the clutch pedal up as high as it can move and hold it there for at least 30 seconds, I HAD TO DO THIS as we were moving too fast to start steps 2 thru 4 and not allowing the fluid in the reservoir to flow into the system. We wasted about 3 hrs because we didn't allow for this extra time and then we'd have a spungy pedal on the first pump and bubbles in the line, started the long pause after cracking the bleeder valve and we were done in 10 mins.
7. when pedal returns fully with one pump it is fully bled
Heres the process I had to take (majority of text copied from johnwig):
1. Make sure clutch pedal is adjusted properly, mine had been previously adjust and didn't have enough throw to really get things moving
2. slowly compress pedal and relase pedal (about 2 sec each way)
3. wait 10 seconds b4 pushing pedal again
4. repeat about 10 times - These iterations will drop when you feel pressure building up on the pedal
5. with pedal on the floor open bleeder (careful pedal dosent move at all) - watch all the pretty air bubbles come out and then close the valve
6. Pull the clutch pedal up as high as it can move and hold it there for at least 30 seconds, I HAD TO DO THIS as we were moving too fast to start steps 2 thru 4 and not allowing the fluid in the reservoir to flow into the system. We wasted about 3 hrs because we didn't allow for this extra time and then we'd have a spungy pedal on the first pump and bubbles in the line, started the long pause after cracking the bleeder valve and we were done in 10 mins.
7. when pedal returns fully with one pump it is fully bled
I went to Nissan Dealer near my house and payed 60 dollar to have my clutch fluid bleeded and they bled with the air compressed suction bleeder from bleeding valve it was fast and done within 15 min.
What I found useful was to do what ian66rt suggested to simply build pressure in the line then have somebody press on the clutch pedal slowly while keeping the bleeder valve slightly open. I wasted 3 hours the previous day trying to do it the 'FSM' way. When you perform the second step, make sure you wait some time between bleeds for the fluid to migrate from the res to the MC.
Suction bleeding does not work with the Concentric Slaves and will never get the air out of the slave itself.
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