Who can roll a fender?
#23
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First off, I tried the fender thing....not a good idea. We did a trial run on a totaled car, the fenders are too thin on the 350Z. I found very small ripples if you look at the fender at different angles. We did this on 3 of the 4 lips...each with the same result no matter what we tried and how careful we were. Granted, they were small ripples, but they were there.
Instead, I went to see Sander at Wheel Source in Walnut, CA. We had an idea that perhaps putting the rim on a lathe and taking off 3-4 mm from the hub of the wheel might do the same thing with less risk. After all, that is how mfg's set their offset. After looking it over, and doing some measurements, it worked. The offset was the thing to change. I am running a 9.5 in front with 265/35/18's and 10.5 in the rear with 295/35/18's and they now don't rub at all...even under really hard compression!
Also, if that didn't work, shaving 3-4 mm off the lip would still be another option. That way rolling the fender, and possibly damaging it, is not necessary.
Instead, I went to see Sander at Wheel Source in Walnut, CA. We had an idea that perhaps putting the rim on a lathe and taking off 3-4 mm from the hub of the wheel might do the same thing with less risk. After all, that is how mfg's set their offset. After looking it over, and doing some measurements, it worked. The offset was the thing to change. I am running a 9.5 in front with 265/35/18's and 10.5 in the rear with 295/35/18's and they now don't rub at all...even under really hard compression!
Also, if that didn't work, shaving 3-4 mm off the lip would still be another option. That way rolling the fender, and possibly damaging it, is not necessary.
Last edited by Fooshe; 04-20-2007 at 09:51 AM.
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Originally Posted by Fooshe
Instead, I went to see Sander at Wheel Source in Walnut, CA. We had an idea that perhaps putting the rim on a lathe and taking off 3-4 mm from the hub of the wheel might do the same thing with less risk.
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Originally Posted by Fooshe
First off, I tried the fender thing....not a good idea. We did a trial run on a totaled car, the fenders are too thin on the 350Z. I found very small ripples if you look at the fender at different angles. We did this on 3 of the 4 lips...each with the same result no matter what we tried and how careful we were. Granted, they were small ripples, but they were there.
Instead, I went to see Sander at Wheel Source in Walnut, CA. We had an idea that perhaps putting the rim on a lathe and taking off 3-4 mm from the hub of the wheel might do the same thing with less risk. After all, that is how mfg's set their offset. After looking it over, and doing some measurements, it worked. The offset was the thing to change. I am running a 9.5 in front with 265/35/18's and 10.5 in the rear with 295/35/18's and they now don't rub at all...even under really hard compression!
Also, if that didn't work, shaving 3-4 mm off the lip would still be another option. That way rolling the fender, and possibly damaging it, is not necessary.
Instead, I went to see Sander at Wheel Source in Walnut, CA. We had an idea that perhaps putting the rim on a lathe and taking off 3-4 mm from the hub of the wheel might do the same thing with less risk. After all, that is how mfg's set their offset. After looking it over, and doing some measurements, it worked. The offset was the thing to change. I am running a 9.5 in front with 265/35/18's and 10.5 in the rear with 295/35/18's and they now don't rub at all...even under really hard compression!
Also, if that didn't work, shaving 3-4 mm off the lip would still be another option. That way rolling the fender, and possibly damaging it, is not necessary.
#26
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used one
Yep, used the heat gun just like everyone has noted and it still had ripples. I found that unless you heat the fender evenly, the metal will have different rigidity levels. It seems logical as metals get their strength during the mfg'ing process by the method and amount of heating and cooling.
Nevertheless, lots less work and much quicker to shave the lip instead of rolling it. Also, less risk of damage to the fender. No need for a heat gun and no need for taking chances. Just the jig saw bit and some bead sealent and you are good to go.
Nevertheless, lots less work and much quicker to shave the lip instead of rolling it. Also, less risk of damage to the fender. No need for a heat gun and no need for taking chances. Just the jig saw bit and some bead sealent and you are good to go.
Originally Posted by deviljon
you used the fender rolling tool? did you use a heat gun?
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Thanks ShinobiR for the referal to your friend Rob.
I had him roll all 4 of my fenders and he did an outstanding job.
I would definitely recomend Rob, he knows what he is doing.
I have 275/30/19 in the front and 295/30/19
in the rear, and we relowered the car. Now it looks like it should.
I will post pic soon.
I had him roll all 4 of my fenders and he did an outstanding job.
I would definitely recomend Rob, he knows what he is doing.
I have 275/30/19 in the front and 295/30/19
in the rear, and we relowered the car. Now it looks like it should.
I will post pic soon.
#29
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roll tool
Nope...I sold it to a guy who saw us working on the junker for $25 more than I paid for it.
Originally Posted by deviljon
so do you still have this tool? i need to roll my fronts, they rubbed a lot during track
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