As some of you know I have a 2005 350z with an APS TT kit on it.

I had a custom 3" exhuast system built, added Meth injection... In the process I swapped out the Unichip with an Ultimate, and replaced the boost controler with a Profec II.

On to the problem...

My load is differnt in a 3rd gear pull from a 4th or 5th gear pull... So I run RICH in 2nd and 3rd, run PERFECT 12.5 A/F in 4th, and higher.

I want to re-tune, using the speed map, in addition to putting injector scaling in. However....

My car wont even run if I use a 290 to 440 injector jump. It leans out, and dies... So I've had to fill in the whole map.

I guess the questions are...

Are you guys using the injector scaling in the Emanage?
Is there a jumper in the wrong position?
Has anyone tapped a wheel speed sensor to provide speed pulses to the EManage so you can use the speed map?



- I hope people start topping 700 before I build my engine -

 

There a some that have used the speed sensor, but for 2-step function. I personally don,t use the scalling.

 

I'm not really after a 2 step.

I'm trying to use injector scaling @ all. It doesn't work.

And I'm trying to use the speed map to ensure 2nd gear pulls and 5th gear pulls both hold 12.x A/F.

Nobody huh???

 

Injector scaling is buggy. Instead, use the airflow correction map for your injector scaling. Start by taking out 15% across the entire map (-15).

 

Thanks Sharif.

Thats too bad that the injector scaling doesn't work right. It worked fine in my brothers 240.

 

Sharif, is it actually called "Airflow Adjustment map?"
I can't find "airflow correction map" anywhere

could this explain why my 550 injectors are not delivering enough fuel up top to tune my 440-470whp vortech setup?

in what way is the injector scaling buggy?

 

You are correct, I mispoke. It is the airflow "adjustment" map that I speak of.

Well, at 470whp with a Vortech kit, you are probably close to max duty cycle with a 550cc injector. Becuase the Vortech consumers energy, you will make out your injectors earlier than with a Turbo setup. That said, you could try raising your fuel pressure slightly to maximize the flow of your injectors, and reduce duty cycle. What fuel pressure are you running now at idle with the vaccum line attached?

 

Can you run that much leaner [ 12.5 A/F ] with a W/M injection kit ?

 

ok thanks
right now my fuel pressure has been sorta weird - might be related to me dripping fuel or not, but I have not been getting the 1-1 rising rate in the upper rpms with the CJM return kit and walbro pump. Something has to be leaking because my shop replaced the FPR, fuel pump, and they said they even tried putting on pieces of an APS kit, but not sure what those were. It still does the same thing.

My fuel pressure at idle is around 40 psi, then when I step on it, it rises up for a good bit like to around 45 or 47 somewhere around mid-ish rpms off the top of my head, then starts to gradually drop to something like 30-35psi at redline. My shop messed around with the FPR a lot adjusting it while on the dyno

that's with 550 injectors. My ECU is flashed with the vortech flash for 440 injectors. I currently have the EU scaling the injectors from 440 to 550. With the 2.87 pulley though, the A/F looks great until 5600 rpms in the high 11's. Then it gradually starts leaning out to 13 A/F right at redline.

Before with the 3.12 pulley, the 550's were enough and we had full control of the A/F at redline. It was when we put the 2.87 on that seems to have pushed us over the edge.

I was reading the EU manual that it seems like you can adjust the injector duty cycle at different rpms. But my fuel pressure being what it is, the shop didn't want to try that.

I have some DeatschWerks 650 injectors on order. I suppose if I'm right on the edge of the injectors, I should just step up a notch so there's some headroom.

 

I'm pretty sure you can, and that actually the WI will change your A/F since you're injecting part methanol into the engine which is like 113 octane.

I've considered just adding WI and calling it a day, but I'd rather just do it the "right" way and make sure the car can run fine on it's own without the WI

 

It for sure sounds like the problem is your fuel preasure . I had mine at around 40,psi and started to run out of fuel adjustment . Put it back up to 48 and had plenty left

 

well when the shop adjusts it higher, it still drops and from what I remember seemed like it dropped at a faster rate and still resulted at around 30-35 psi at redline. I don't exactly remember - wish there was an easy way to log fuel pressure