I'm just wondering what other people have made WHP-wise with the following mods...

-DC Sports style headers
-Resonated Test pipes
-True Dual Exhaust
-Plenum spacer
-UTEC tune

I plan on doing these mods in the next few weeks... Just wondering what other N/A guys have done.

 

Dont have the headers but I would guess that you could do 270-ish WHP...

 

Yeah, high 260's, low 270's ?? The tune is the key though....

 

-DC Sports style headers $400.00
-Resonated Test pipes $300.00
-True Dual Exhaust $1600.00
-Plenum spacer $180.00
-UTEC tune $900.00


Dude...that's around $3,380 for maybe a 40rwhp gain not including the tune. You can get the Greddy kit for around $5,000 and get more than 100rwhp right out of the box. The true dual exaust is almost pointless for a NA motor, but atleast you'll have it already when you go FI in the future.

 

I'm getting a little tired of the argument that "for a little more money you can just go F/I"

In reality it's WAY more money with all the supporting mods, extra time it takes to tune, and some people don't want all the hassle nor do they need all the power. Even people who have spent $20k+ on their turbo setup and have gotten their built motor and install done at the best shops in the country STILL can have reliability issues.

N/A mods (if you are willing to tune) are great for adding a little power while keeping excellent reliability.

Plus, without building your motor, the Greddy TT kit has blown its share of motors. At a bare minimum you'd want a UTEC to go with the greddy kit, add about $1500 to your $5k once you get the wideband etc. Installing a turbo kit, $1500-2000... all of a sudden you're at almost $8000 and your setup still will be on a fully stock motor... no upgraded radiator, no oil cooler...

By the way that's one hell of an expensive dual exhaust you got there.

 

15k for reliable greddy kit. It does get old to hear that all the time.

 

Any good reputable tuner who installs a turbo kit with reliability in mind won't push more than 400rwhp or typically leave it around 380rwhp which has been proven to be safe.

* A UTEC is not required, the standard Emange works fine with a good tune.
* Either way, with NA mods or turbo kit, a good tune is necessary
* A wideband if not necessary, any good tuner will use one on the dyno
* I used the stock radiator for many miles when I was supercharged and then the twin turbo's. I never once saw my engine temps increase above normal just street driving. Yes I did switch to Koyo but only after going above 500rwhp. And many people here with FI don't have the oil cooler

Not trying to start any arguments here but power is totally addictive. All the NA mods mentioned above I have had at one point in time and you always eventually end up wanting more power. I would bet that almost off fhe FI guys here first had all the NA mods before realized that they spent all that money and hardly got jack as far as power.

 

More power, more problems. Now that I agree with

 

Wow,
way to take it off-topic guys.

Here's the true break down...
Megan/Tuning Pro headers are the same design as DC sports (and the megan/tuning pros test pipes too) on ebay you can get the parts for the following...
Headers $150 shipped
Test pipes $130 shipped
My custom exhaust will be 370 shipped (weld it together myself)
Spacer is $200 shipped (usually a little less but we'll round off)
UTEC and a map selector can be had for 850 or less if you look.
So that's 1700 total... I'd be doing the install and tuning myself (tuning with help from a friend). I just wanted to know approx what it'd make before I added other stuff afterwards...

I plan on doing N2O afterwards (150 shot)... that's 850 or so for the kit, bottle warmer, remote opener and gauge.
The Drag Radials and 3.91 rear gears are about 900 total.

So thats 3450 (if I install and tune everything myself - which should be do-able with the help of a friend or two).
Should yield mid-11s on the spray. Way cheaper than F/I and all inclusive as well.

 

Metal Heart -

I'm glad you know what you want...that's more important than the numbers you're putting down... let us know how everything goes

 

I was honestly just curious as I had done research on the power the car would make on the juice, but not with just the bolt-ons.
I'll keep y'all posted.

 

Hey ... if one would add cams... springs and shims ... how high can you rev and what type of power would it add. I'm wondering if it'd be worth it.

 

For some, yes...Remember, boost dont kill motors, PEOPLE with boost kill motors..
By far the most wreckless comment I have read to date..lol
I do agree
For N/A not needed, for F/I cars, reccomended.
Better cooling never hurt..
power is addictive....

 

Just because most motors can hold on at 400whp doesn't mean all of them will.


Plenty of motors have failed around this level.


In no way, shape, or form has that level of power been "proven to be safe", and a bad tune was not necessarily the culprit of those people's motor failures.

Proving something to be safe is a lot harder than SHOWING that something CAN be unsafe...


Depending on what cams you get, your peak power can shift to a higher RPM. If you upgrade the valvetrain (primarily to reduce valve float), there are a couple of members on these forums revving to 8000rpm. I have no idea exactly what power they're making though.