tech help
tech help
Okay. I'm ready to strangle my dealer...
I have a recurring "check engine" light CEL. It has only begun in the last 2k miles (36k on the odometer now). I have brought it to the dealer three times--the last for a 2 day stay, and it still is not solved. It will go away for about 3 or 4 restarts and a half a day, then mysteriously comes on.
All of my mods were done A LONG TIME AGO, and never have I gotten a CEL before (headers, cai, tps, ypipe, cats, grounding kit--things that might have some affect). The code is flashes is P1273 defective a/f sensor Bank 1, though bank 2 is entirely unplugged. The part is the 22693-CD700 heated oxygen sensor. It has been replaced twice.
Now, about 6 months ago my gas cap supposedly was loose and caused my whole car to freeze up (see old post) cutting all fuel over 1k rpms and I was stranded in Tampa. It was attributed to the gas cap only, reset, and the car was fine. Every time I have brought it back in, they ask about the gas cap again.
The car itself runs fine. I believe I may here a slight exhaust leak on the right side near the yipe/cat, but the dealer said they checked for leaks and found nothing.
Anyone have a freakin' clue what the deal is???
I have a recurring "check engine" light CEL. It has only begun in the last 2k miles (36k on the odometer now). I have brought it to the dealer three times--the last for a 2 day stay, and it still is not solved. It will go away for about 3 or 4 restarts and a half a day, then mysteriously comes on.
All of my mods were done A LONG TIME AGO, and never have I gotten a CEL before (headers, cai, tps, ypipe, cats, grounding kit--things that might have some affect). The code is flashes is P1273 defective a/f sensor Bank 1, though bank 2 is entirely unplugged. The part is the 22693-CD700 heated oxygen sensor. It has been replaced twice.
Now, about 6 months ago my gas cap supposedly was loose and caused my whole car to freeze up (see old post) cutting all fuel over 1k rpms and I was stranded in Tampa. It was attributed to the gas cap only, reset, and the car was fine. Every time I have brought it back in, they ask about the gas cap again.
The car itself runs fine. I believe I may here a slight exhaust leak on the right side near the yipe/cat, but the dealer said they checked for leaks and found nothing.
Anyone have a freakin' clue what the deal is???
The code should say sensor 1 or sensor 2 (there are two on each side).
It looks like on of your passenger side O2 sensors are bad - replace it if you haven't already or play roulette and see if the code changes to isolate which one exactly is bad.
As I recall (you need to get this straight):
Bank 2 = driver's side
Bank 1 = passenger's side
It looks like on of your passenger side O2 sensors are bad - replace it if you haven't already or play roulette and see if the code changes to isolate which one exactly is bad.
As I recall (you need to get this straight):
Bank 2 = driver's side
Bank 1 = passenger's side
Originally Posted by rcdash
The code should say sensor 1 or sensor 2 (there are two on each side).
It looks like on of your passenger side O2 sensors are bad - replace it if you haven't already or play roulette and see if the code changes to isolate which one exactly is bad.
As I recall (you need to get this straight):
Bank 2 = driver's side
Bank 1 = passenger's side
It looks like on of your passenger side O2 sensors are bad - replace it if you haven't already or play roulette and see if the code changes to isolate which one exactly is bad.
As I recall (you need to get this straight):
Bank 2 = driver's side
Bank 1 = passenger's side
Bank 1 is where it was--they have been replaced on both sides, now...
The forward or rear sensors? (The ones on the manifolds or after the cats?)
If all 4 have been replaced, then ???. Do they read normal AFR at idle? (It's hard to debug without a consult like tool - e.g. Cipher, and the service manual). If you really want to do the detective work on your own, might be worth the investment (or find a friend that has it - you could check with the Florida G35 club members).
If all 4 have been replaced, then ???. Do they read normal AFR at idle? (It's hard to debug without a consult like tool - e.g. Cipher, and the service manual). If you really want to do the detective work on your own, might be worth the investment (or find a friend that has it - you could check with the Florida G35 club members).
Last edited by rcdash; May 3, 2007 at 06:15 AM.
I would say most likely the code is due to your test pipes.
You almost definitely also need tuning. You are running rich or lean. I doubt the sensor is defective. Think about it, you changed the breathing parts on the car. You changed the air/fuel ratios. A sensor that's built to detect STOCK conditions is telling you that you are outside of the normal STOCK range of air/fuel.
You almost definitely also need tuning. You are running rich or lean. I doubt the sensor is defective. Think about it, you changed the breathing parts on the car. You changed the air/fuel ratios. A sensor that's built to detect STOCK conditions is telling you that you are outside of the normal STOCK range of air/fuel.
Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
I would say most likely the code is due to your test pipes.
You almost definitely also need tuning. You are running rich or lean. I doubt the sensor is defective. Think about it, you changed the breathing parts on the car. You changed the air/fuel ratios. A sensor that's built to detect STOCK conditions is telling you that you are outside of the normal STOCK range of air/fuel.
You almost definitely also need tuning. You are running rich or lean. I doubt the sensor is defective. Think about it, you changed the breathing parts on the car. You changed the air/fuel ratios. A sensor that's built to detect STOCK conditions is telling you that you are outside of the normal STOCK range of air/fuel.
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