the UTEC will interpolate from 1 load point to another. this is necessary as the diffenece between load points may be as much 2 psi (or more). You wouldn't the timing values to be "on/off" with each load sight.

 

about 3-4 psi......just as come back on the throttle after a shift.....this only happens on fast shifts, like when drag racing.

 

The PSI stays between 17.5-18, I didn't like the TXS base map and still have my AF only map so I'll start off that and try again.(bonus of obsessively saving adjustments)

What settings does everyone run for NA knock?

 

Wait, your NA?!?! If you are NA, forget everything you read about PSI.

If you are NA, I really think you need to look at three things:

1. Make sure that the timing values in adjacent load sites (especially near transition points) are not radically different. As another poster noted, the UTEC will interpolate adjacent load sites to determine final timing. This is why they should be similar. The UTEC will average them, and if they are not similar, the final result will be different than planned.

2. You really should consider implementing a open loop delay. At least give it a try. This typically will help a lot of people.

3. Consider lowering your knock threshold slightly. I will get false knock from road noise and all sorts of things. I lowered mine slightly so the UTEC does not pull timing. However, I left the retard on knock settings as they were. This just means the knock has to reach a higher threshold before the UTEC will execute the TXS standard knock retard.

Again, if you are NA, the above should really help.

 

I was still fairly conservative with timing and cells where within one degree of each other. At shift point the cells are the same across the band so I don't think that's the issue. I was running 25 degrees at shift point and then gradually crept it up by one degree to 28 at 6500.

On the delay setting do you mean from open to closed, as in set it to 2 and see what happens?

My knock threshold is lower than what came preloaded but I don't know how low to go to be safe. Again this is a DD and I can't afford to blow the motor, Nissan is on to me.

 

So I reset everything and went at it again. I took some runfiles after just playing with the AF and got a knock @6k so I went through everything and found no evidence that the ecu was pulling timing so I'm going to chalk it up to outside interference. I adjusted my knock setting and have attached them just make sure I didn't go to low. I ran a straight timing at a straight 23 from 2000-5500 and then went up one degree till 6500. Not sure how that fairs with what other people have but I just wanted a base line to monitor knock. Luckily after a few 0-80's and 3rd gear pulls I registered no knock.

Thoughts on the knock settings or timing values?

 

Hmmm… Straight timing of 23 from 2000 to 5500 is too conservative in some places and too aggressive in other places.

If you have a 6MT NA Revup with intake, plenum, hfc/tp’s, exhaust, and UTEC – at @ 1000 feet of elevation, these tuned parameters will probably be what you’re looking for.

My tune is always evolving as I find new little tricks to fine-tune it even further. So I don’t mind sharing my findings and spreading knowledge of what worked and what didn’t.

So - I finally got my tune dialed in pretty tight across the spectrum and the car pulls way harder and more linier, than it ever did after being 'professionally' tuned in Atlanta... while still keeping it well within safe mechanical operating specs. I now have a permanent smile engraved on my face. :-)

Disclaimer: I am only providing these as examples of what worked best on my car. If you blow your **** up tweaking the parameters, it ain't my fault.... An AFR gauge and/or UTEC Tuner Module is indispensable when tuning. A dyno is also very helpful to provide feedback on hp & torque curves.

 

I know someone's gonna ask...

My highest current Dynojet number is 288whp using my 'self tuned' parameters.
My previous highest Dyno Dynamics number was 240whp using a 'professional tune'.

I still have the exact same mods from when I had the 'professional tune'.

Correcting my Dynojet number to a Dyno Dynamics number = 256.5whp... A delta of 16whp over the 'professional tune'.

But to be fair, the HKS exhaust the shop sold me had major blockage at the time they did the tune. And they also didn't utilize as much of the tunable spectrum as I did...

Yeah... girls can rock too... :-)

 

I'm not running a revup motor so I would assume the tuning is slightly different. I needed a place to start so I just blocked it and set 23 until 5500 and climbed from there. My IGN log of stock timing shows 20-22 across that band so I figured a flat 23 would be a decent bet. In what way is it to aggressive? I'm going by the basis of advance as far as you can go without knock, if this is wrong please enlighten me to the proper technique. I have some gurus telling me you can advance the VQ35 to mid 30's. I always cross reference with my AFR when tuning the timing because I certainly don't want a lean condition to appear.

I certainly appreciate your help and input.(And won't hold you resposible for blowing it up )

 

Good work. Just for clarification, an average DJ correction is about 10-13%, so you delta is smaller. I have seen as much as 16% increase with a DJ vs. DD. The only way to compare, is to use the same dyno, with similar ambient conditions. But definately looks like your blockage was choking off some power..and I am glad it feels better now.

 

+1

The industry accepted value is 11%. So I used a DJ correction factor of 11%. This should put my numbers pretty close to the 16whp delta I calculated over the Marietta, GA 'professional' tune. :-)

===================================
For the sake of Clarity:

DJ 288whp * (.11) = DD 256whp.
DD 256whp (self tune) - DD 240whp (pro tune) = DD 16whp self tune gain


On the outside edge of the population distribution:

DJ 288whp * (.13) = DD 250whp.
DD 250whp (self tune) - DD 240whp (pro tune) = DD 10whp self tune gain

===================================

I even rounded the numbers down just to be conservative. But - Either way you calculate it... 10whp to 16whp is a good amount of self-tuned NA gain.

 

Bring it by out shop, and we'd be happy to run it on our dyno again no charge, and then we will know exactly what it is making. The is no industry accepted standard for dyno comparisons...just guessing. I really would like to know, how much power the blockage fix, and addition tuning generated. That night on our dyno, there is absolutely no more power available with what I was working with.

 

I already know what it is making. Fortunately for us performance nuts - There isn't only one place to get a dyno in this town. :-)

DJ 288whp * (.11) = DD 256whp.
DD 256whp (self tune) - DD 240whp (pro tune) = DD 16whp self tune gain

DJ 288whp * (.13) = DD 250whp.
DD 250whp (self tune) - DD 240whp (pro tune) = DD 10whp self tune gain

I'm finally happy with my setup now that it's running like it should...
(Respectfully)... I don't have a burning desire to let you monkey with my car anymore after the botched installs your shop did (that you wouldn't take responsibility for) that I had to fix on my own...

 

Erin,

I can set the time this Saturday and you're welcome to come so we can dyno 3 pulls with no charge

 

Thanks for the offer, but who is this really for? I already know what my car is making, and am quite happy... DJ 288 = DD 256. That's 16 more whp than the $375 tune I payed for at your shop. Same mods.

I'm finally happy with my setup now that it's running like it should...
(Respectfully)... To help refresh your memory on why I'm hesitant to bring my car back to your loving embrace...

https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exhaust/273185-hks-improving-on-perfection.html

1) Stoptech Stage II = I brought it back to you because I found air in the lines. Michael tried to convince me the "spongy" feeling was "normal" and it would go away if I drove it awhile. So I went out and "bedded" the new pads to the new rotors. That didn't help. Michael looked at it again and insisted the "sponginess" was "normal". That was unacceptable to me since it felt worse than oem. So after much hassle, I finally got you to re-bleed the brakes . And it was verified there was in fact air in the lines. The E-brake was still out of adjustment (Too loose). Michael said it was "normal" and adjusting it was too involved to warrant the effort. I verified with the dealership the adjustment was out of spec. - Finally got it fixed at a different shop.

2) Random Tech High Flow Cats = I tried to bring the car back for this, but I was told it was my problem: Michael stripped one of my brand new 02 sensors during the HFC install and you capped the bung with a plug & it kept throwing a CEL code. You took 0% responsibility for it. Cost me an addition $200 to replace. I even offered to go halves on it with you, but you took 0% responsibility for it. So I went and bought a new one at the stealership, and then Sandy told me you wouldn't install it because "we don't do warranty work". So I had it installed elsewhere.

3) HKS Hi Power = I didn't bring the car in for this because of the hassle you gave me on the Brakes and HFCs. So I emailed you with the symptoms & AFR's with no response until much later. Then I followed up with a phone call. You told me the "popping/ sputtering" sound it was making was "normal" for a free-flowing exhaust & told me "to go enjoy my car". After much investigation on my own, I found a large exhaust leak on Bank2 between the HFC and Exhaust via a smoke compressor. Fixing the leak your shop missed helped, but didn't remedy the larger problem so I kept digging... I ended up finding blockage in the H-pipe and Canisters through a different shop. I had the blockage and leak fixed by a performance fabrication shop (Very cool guys).

4) MREV 2 = By this point you had made it pretty obvious you weren't going to support the mods you installed so I didn't come back for this... The Bypass valve was incorrectly installed. Michael routed it to the throttle body, when in fact it should have been going to the plenum (I verified this with Motordyne as they walked me through it on the phone, Great customer service). I fixed it on my own. But - The truth of the matter is that you installed a Copper TB Heater that I never ordered. I ordered the Copper ISO 5/16th spacer, but you installed the Copper TB Heater instead. That's what got me looking at the install. You got the order/ parts mixed up, so now I have a "hybrid" install. Motordyne said this "hybrid" install should still work fine, but that I ended up buying redundant parts I didn't need.

5) UTEC = Again, by this point you had made it pretty clear you weren't going to support the mods you installed so I didn't come back for this... You grounded my UTEC to the underside of the dashboard panel mount by wrapping the bare wire around the grometized dashboard mount. It looked pretty shoddy, so I ran an ohm meter on it while road testing and found the ground was fluctuating ... So I crimped a connector to the end of the wire and relocated the ground to the chassis (per TurboXS, Great customer service). Now I'm getting a good consistent clean ground. While I was at it, I also ran a dedicated ground from the ECU to the same chassis grounding point.

6) Only if you fix the tune you did where I'm getting a fairly consistent knock event @ 3500 that results in my timing getting pulled.... Nevermind, I easily got this taken care of by installing a TXS Tuner & teaching myself the finer points of UTEC tuning...

 

Erin, this really needs to stop. Again, i am not going to get into this debate on a public forum. Every single one of your points is factually incorrect.

There was no hassle on anything. Why are you fabricating this story? Just as ONE example. Your brakes were rectified the SAME NIGHT we did the original installation...remember..the night we stayed VERY late on a Saturday to accomodate your schedule.

Enough is enough already. We will never make you happy, and I am glad you found another shop that can. Have a nice day.

 

e, i think you're carrying an unwarranted grudge and by doing so you are missing out on a good opportunity for yourself and for the betterment of the community... let me explain:

by digging as deeply into your own setup as you have (exhaust, tuning, etc.) you have uncovered some good information such as the blockage in the HKS exhaust and a fix for this... you can continue to provide such outstanding information by doing a comparison with the current dyno you are using versus the DD... it will truly give us some solid numbers to work with... i understand you want to believe in your calculations, but none of us can be certain you are using the correct percentage... for example, i have scheduled an appointment with Top Speed in Alpharetta (a well-known Subie, EVO tuning shop) to do some pulls on their dynojet on the 30th... i did so because i want to know what my DD numbers will be vs the DJ... when speaking to them, they told me that they've never seen over 10% difference between the DD and their DJ and that it usually averages around 8%... if this is true, then your numbers would be even better on the DD than you've predicted...

but, keep in mind that dyno operators can make the dyno say anything they want... i'm not saying that you're getting fudged numbers, but there's always the possibility... and i think it's a bit unfair for you to call sharif out in the forums when you won't prove to the community that you are actually making 16whp more in DD numbers than what you were when you left Forged Performance... if you believe in your tune, calculations and results, i say let sharif do the free pulls... they'll be done in shoot out mode so no numbers can be fudged and there will be nothing connected to your UTEC so no "monkeying" will be going on...*hehe*

if you find that you are correct and you've made some good gains (barring the removal of the exhaust blockage) by tuning yourself, then the community benefits and i give you full permission to wail, ****, cry and moan about how bad Forged Performance sucks... :-P

truly, you and us, have nothing to lose and everything to gain...

 

Very good points... You're always my voice of reason, aren't you? Hey, I miss seeing you & M... :-)

Tell you what, I'll find a place other than Forged Perf that runs a DD and do a few pulls there. I think Balanced Performance has one... That way we can be sure the results are neutral and accurate. Because like you said, the dyno operator can 'correct' or 'affect' the numbers to say pretty much anything they want. Plus, to be quite honest - at this point I'm not open to letting Forged touch my car with the less than professional quality of their installs (that I had to fix on my own), bs, & posturing that's been going on with them... As a note (for what it's worth): I've seen Devon & Chris's work on other cars... Top notch & immaculately professional. I wish they had worked on my car.

But given the current situation, I think a neutral third party would be the best alternative to a shop with a conflict of interest or a hatchet to grind. If that's not good enough, then just take my standing DJ/DD numbers for what it's worth... I was just trying to help the OP with tuning his utec maps since I now have practical experience in NA fine tuning.

 

i don't know of another shop around with a DD, but, of course, i haven't looked... just remember, when the DD is in "shoot-out" mode, the numbers CANNOT be altered or corrected... that's how sharif runs the dyno now and, of course, you can see which mode it's in on the screen... you know he can't fake it (not that he would) because we all love to crowd around the dyno! *haha*

seriously, bring it up this saturday... i'll be there... you need another ride in my car, anyway...560whp is OMFG fun! i got the chance to be a passenger in my car the other day...i think my passenger seat is missing some leather and it's still in my bum...

and bring your new guy by, too! i'd love to meet him...

 

OK, I lied, and I am jumping back in.

The only other somewhat close DD is over in Calhoun (probably spelled that wrong). But like Stormcrow mentioned, the numbers are absolutely impossible to manipulate in Shoot-Out mode. I will demonstarte this for you if you come and dyno....you cannot click or change anything in terms of correction, ramp rate..or anything else. All I do is setup the tach signal, and let it rip. If you want, I can run it in standard mode, and shootout mode....the numbers are usually within a couple whp of each other.

Erin, I am sure your car will make more power, with the blockage removal, and the additional tuning, so I have nothing to hide. And this way, you will know exactly what the true delta is, using the same DD. I am also curious as the DJ/DD difference. We often test our customer's cars on the local DJ, when they request it, and the numbers are anywhere from 8% to 17% higher.

And I'd also like to see you again in person, so hopefully we can have a nice friendly face to face conversation, and move forward.

If you decide not to do it...that's fine too...just let us know.