So here are my mods: 06 rev up motor

spacer and plenum
jwt intake
aps testies
hks dual and the utec

Now I just got it tuned and...since then it hiccups or pulls timing, call it what you want from around 4k to 6kish...

heres my question...can I just take the utec out till I get it figured out by the shop that tuned me...or is that not a good idea ?...Its no fun driving the car and Im not sure if im hurting it ...is the ecu pulling back timing because it senses knock or is it just fighting the utec...

Rev up owners with utecs please help...

p.s: the tuner has tuned hundreds if not thousands of utecs..so hes no beginner ..not sure if that matters or not.

 

You could just run off the ECU if you're NA... Not FI.

Or you could log into your UTEC and run some logs of the Knock Events you're refering too. If you're confident it's real knock, then either richen up the fuel maps a little for those load points/ RPMs and/or pull the timing back a little.... Assuming you don't have mechanical problems, that should take care of it.... Always tune in small increments. and try to tune one parameter at a time. That way you can put it back easily if the changes don't work so great.

Also don't forget to verify your grounding... The original shop that did my UTEC install grounded it to the underside of the dashboard mount by wrapping the bare wire around a grometized mount... Shoddy... The ground fluctuated according to my ohm meter during road testing...

So I crimped a connector to the ground wire and relocated it to the chassis per TXS. And also ran a dedicated ground for my ECU here as well... Now it reads a solid consistent ground.

High RPM 'stutter' is indicative of a bad/ fluctuating UTEC ground.

 

I dont have a laptop....

So i just need to unplug itand takeit out...its that easy?....

 

Yeah, just uninstall your UTEC... Hook up a 9v battery per the supplied adapter. Then hook it into your desktop to check the maps. Pain in the @ss, but it'll work like a laptop... Can't run logs that way though...

 

utec is crap.. look into the hks version

 

OK? Care to explain? Mine works fine and certainly gave me power for half the price of an F-CON. Sounds like a good deal to me. Keep in mind that the poster and I are N/A.

 

oh sorry.. i just didnt like the utec .. upgrading the firmware sucked... the visual interface sucks.. it has its issues but is def worth what it is... its a great deal for NA but i dont trust it personally. i had one of the first tho so im sure all the bugs are worked out by now

 

Im just goin to unplug it and see if that helps....then gonna bring it back to my tuner to see what the problem is....

I used to have issues with my utec on my sti and i swore i wouldnt go back....i shouldve listened...it stinks if u cant tune it urself...depending on others sux

 

nothing is wrong with the UTEC.. i had it in my car for 13,000 miles and it worked flawlessly.. its also the premiere system for N/A cars

 

Jus mus b my luck

 

call MRC in NJ and talk to them about your concerns and what you expect from yoru Z .. if you havn't bought your UTEC already then you can get it from them for a very good package deal for tuning and UTEC..

Julian is very knowledgable and he is fair.. so if you don't like what you hear.. you can choose otherwise.

 

of course ive bought the utec..im HAVING issues w/it right now...but I did call them..but damn to spend 400 again....when the problem should be fixed for free....

 

Make sure you clarify, we are not the ones who tuned it, and were not charging you to retune something we did..Your post sounded as if you got it from us and we wanted another $400 to fix an issue.. I can get you the power you should have gotten in the first place if your willing to come down..

 

No...mrc had nothing to do with this...i may have to drive there to have them attempt to fix it....who did it is not important....i was stating that i may have to go all the way there and that might suck!!!! Plus to spend more dough...ughhh

U guys at mrc were greatr when i called and needed some help

 

Why not just run Map 0 until you can get in for a tune? Save you having to uninstall and then reinstall (why put the ECU and the UTEC through that?)

 

Im goin to run 0...thats the immediate plan

 

I had to lower the knock settings on my mine with a light weight flywheel and piston slap. It was picking up knock at idle. Damn noisy engines.

 

I havent gotten to my tuner yet but heres my newbie question...

I just switched to map 0 ...double checked it in hyperterminal...done deal..

now I am going to reset my ecu by disconnecting the battery terminals..so that way it adjusts to my mods...

is that ok...am i done now...or should I not have reset the ecu...

i wanna drive it now...w/some spirit..if the same problem occurs then its safe to say that its not the utecs issue...right ?..

last question..i have the tp's and I got the cel..gonna get the fix from zexy..just havent yet...does the cel hamper my performance at all..or is it just annoying....

Thanks

 

I believe the CEL is just annoying, and indicative of a stored code. I do not *think* it always means you are in "limp home mode".

Disconnecting the battery terminals for 30 mins will reset any codes and clear CELs once you've installed any defeats. Disconnecting the battery for a few hours or more will reset the ECU.

PS: The ECU doesn't really "learn" the mods. It tunes them out. That's why you need to get that UTEC workin. :-)

Also, if you continue having an issue, THEN remove the UTEC and then reset the ECU again and then drive. If the problem persists only then can you assume the UTEC is not the cause. Even in MAP0 the signal is still passing through the UTEC, but just bypassed. If there is a fault in the UTEC it could technically still interfere even during bypass, depending on the issue.

Always best to be sure, right? But I still say leave it in until your car suggests again that it should be removed.

 

buy your self a cheap, old, used laptop. you'll want to have it so you can log things with your UTEC. It really is a necessity.