__jb

iTrader: (3)

I liked the Haltech better because it was an open environment... not locked by the tuner/hardware... it is a full standalone with regard to the Fuel/Air, Ignition Timing, and Cam Timing parameters... built in MAP tuning... it has a nice win32 user interface... it uses USB, not serial cables for the ECU-PC interface... and it's quite a bit cheaper than the FCON.

I'm not saying the FCON might not do some other things, but for me, an NA guy... I thought the Haltech fit my purposes better... and I still think that after a few weeks!

RBlover69

iTrader: (2)

get some test pipes or better cats and hit 300rwhp dammit... ..( my mission aswell lol)

Motormouth

iTrader: (44)

holy crap 2300 bucks...

but results don't lie and if you and the tuner are happy, congrats!! 17hp is a nice gain.

98intrigue

iTrader: (16)

I did a back-to-back dyno with my Crawford cats and FI test pipes and there was a difference of 1hp. Either test pipes suck or the cats flow well enough!

__jb

iTrader: (3)

If I thought test pipes would get me to 300whp, I'd probably get them...

Unfortunately, I think the next 14whp is going to be pretty expensive...

__jb

iTrader: (3)

I remember that now... That was at one of our Dyno Days in Tampa, wasn't it?

To me, it's worth 1whp to avoid the smell of test pipes.

__jb

iTrader: (3)

Thought it might be a nice time for a follow-up on my Haltech EMS. I finally found a good place to mount the unit itself, so I thought I'd shoot a couple of pictures.

This is the spot where most people put their Haltech in a G35 Coupe. As you can see, my particular Coupe has an ABS control box mounted here. I don't know how common it is to have an ABS control box mounted here, but I suspect mine might have it because I don't have a sunroof and don't have any of the more normal Premium Package wiring.



As you can see, it pretty much eliminates using that spot to mount my Haltech. Originally is was mounted under the carpet in the same area. That was a good spot, but I didn't like crawling under the dash and rolling the carpet back every time I wanted to connect the USB cable.

I don't have OEM Navigation, so the upper glove box seemed like a good place for the Haltech. I held the Haltech up and it seemed like it would fit all right.





So, I proceeded to rip out the right hand side of the dash board. Needless to say, the upper glove box is very difficult to get out. Thanks to Christian for the help.



Once I got the upper dash all the way out and fit the Haltech in with all the wires and tubing, I realized that I would have to really butcher the glove box to fit the Haltech in. That wasn't so bad, but for some reason I started to think that I'd rather put it somewhere else. I had to drive my car to work the next day, so I mounted the Haltech on the glove box bracing.





That is actually a great spot to mount the Haltech or any EMS. It's easy to get to and looks good... if you have a race car...

I wanted a stealthier look and couldn't live with my dash all torn apart like that, so I opted to mount the Haltech under the botton of the lower glove box.





If I would have thought of this in the beginning, it would have saved me a lot of time... I'm happy with my Haltech mounted under the dash. It's out of the way, but still handy to connect stuff to.

I would like to move the MAP tubing out of the way a bit. Does any one know if I can get a small 90 degree fitting to replace the straight out fitting that the Haltech comes with? Could changing the straight fitting to a 90 degree fitting cause any issues with the Haltech reading vacuum or pressure?

Hope this is useful to some of you...

Nexx

iTrader: (41)

the haltech is an awesome piece of equipment, forged will be installing one my car. with that said, its gonna cost close to $3k for install and tune. for 20whp that just isnt worth it to me. i think the N/A guys need a version of the haltech thats more economical. kinda like a emange ultimate and emange blue type thing. i honestly think a N/A version/lite version of a standalone for around $1200.00 would fly off the shelf. but then again, what do i know. not sure if this is even possible or not. just throwing it out there.

BrazenZ

I read in the Z-1 website that knock detection and control will be coming out in later freeware. Does the this mean you have to use the OEM knock detection or that at this there is no knock detection at this time?

__jb

iTrader: (3)

Knock detection is currently available, it's knock control that is not yet available.

There have been two recent firmware/software releases that I am trying to get the info on. It is possible that one of these has knock control. Sometimes a new firmware/software release will add tables that need to be filled in after updating. I don't load any new code until I find out what it does.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

there is no way to make it more economical though - its not like an NA car needs any different software vs a FI car with the exception of a MAP sensor (which can be used on an NA setup as well). Other than that, the difference is in the amt of time you get billed for tuning, not in the hardware itself. For an NA car with your basic round of stuff, even a built motor, a UTEC is the cost effective solution.