Hi guys, after my reflash (osiris done at sgp racing) and some bolts on I took a video of the 3d gear going from 2000 to 7000... I had the same "reference" when I had only my hks exhaust, plenum spacer, hiflow cats... now I added headers, test pipes and UR underdrive pulleys... and of course.. the tune.

this is the results.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lTYKIT5szQ

btw, my Z is an 06
on the dynapack was 238 baseline with all parts and 274.8 at the end of the tuning.

Matteo

 

Very nice..

 

What did you do that with? Good comparison video. Looks like you gained about 2 seconds 25-85. Not bad.

 

thanks.. I'm quite impressed by the performance now.. mainly because it's almost everything in the 4000-6000 range and I didn't lost anything and yes.. is 2.1 second

btw. I used the demo of adobe after effect.
first I cut the two videos to match the start @ 2000 and the end at 7K
than I overlapped keeping the top one 50% trasparent so I can match the position and the size of the other one (scale and rotate)
than I used the motion stabilizer feature... got two good tracking points and here we go.
at the end just reload the rendered video and scale enough to don't show the originals jumping around

the video was made with my piece of s... digital camera (an entry level sony)

Matteo

 

Ataru, awesome job. I think that's a great frame of reference for anyone who is considering a tune and wants to know what kind of outcome they can expect.

Kudos.

 

Nice job

 

Thank you. I captured that kind of video for some evolving step (unfortunately not stock) of my Z... trying to repeat the condition (eg. fuel amount, pretty easy.. full tank) trying to get at least pretty close atmosferic condition.. temperature, humidity and the same "closed course". I just build up that composition because I was amazed about how much actually the car "happyness" can change with basic bolt on.

you don't actually need nothing so fancy... just get the camera, stretch the 3d gear and count the frames (or just the time) from x rpm to y rpm... using quicktime or any other player with a decent control over the timeline.

of course if you change gears or tire diameter become like comparing apples to pears.

could be interesting to repeat in one day with really low temperatures (40/45 and low humidity and one day with 90+ and a lot of humidity) just to see how much the environment changes the performance.

Matteo

 

Absolutely. This is an important lesson for all of those who are interested in looking for a frame of reference of what mods do to your car (this is if you don't have a drag strip near you or dyno).

You definitely want to keep all of your variables as constant as possible when trying to make "apples to apples" comparisons (use the same stretch of road, same gas level as much as possible, etc).

I definitely would love to see some differences between colder, denser air and the hot and humid weather.

 

I did that just because I think a drag strip or a dyno are less repeatable if you go let's say today and next time in 3 months... on the drag strip you have a lot of variables, starting from tire spin, tire condition, yourself, how you shift... too many for my taste.. in this case.. put the 3d gear, down to 1500 rpm... pedal to the metal and record.
dyno.. I believe some dyno are pretty accurate to see changes, during the same day... after 3 months? maybe... maybe they had maintenance, maybe the setup changed to give "more realistic" results.

I had a friend working in a tuning shop in italy... they have so many tricks they can play to give you the numbers you'd like... somebody is only concerned about #... somebody likes huge improvements...

in this way is you and your car.. so you know if you're honest with yourself.

could be interesting also collecting this kind of data from other users.. so no question about dynapack, dynojet, mustang or whatever...
you can still cheat.. going downhill, accelerate the movie.. but WTF...

Matteo

 

great vid

this sorta comparison would be awesome for showing the difference that less rotational mass makes. lighter wheels, clutch/flywheel and pulley won't really add more power, but they'll accelerate you faster

 

+1. Never thought about that.

 

Never though about this way!!! Good to know and I'll be definitely using this technique

Is this Auto or MT?

 

the video is of a 6MT, but you could do this on an auto too

 

+1
and why not if you lighten the car?... bucket seats, cf parts...

Matteo

 

removing dead weight will have no effect on your power/tq or the acceleration on the dyno

that'll only effect real world driving where the car is actually moving

 

I think when you get to aspects like these, it's harder to show true gains. I would definitely suggest going to the same dyno and doing runs there. The only reason is because the weight change might be so small, it would be harder to quantify actual gains considering the all of the variables on the road. Basically, it's just one less thing that you don't have to take account for.

 

Not at all??? I'm lost on the subject so any clarification would be great. I slept through most of physics

 

depends where you remove weight...
if it's in the drivetrain you should free up some torque (the one that before was needed to accelerate parts before putting your power on the ground)
but actually you will change your drivetrain power loss.. eg from 20% to 16 or whatever..
so, this "power gain" will show up on the dyno but is not your engine gain, is your drivetrain improvement (you will not gain max speed at least not relevant, but you'll gain acceleration)

if you change seats, remove your hifi, remove plastic parts, remove weight anywhere else.. is not going to affect your dyno number at all.. but you're changing your power/weight ratio, gaining again acceleration and a little bit on speed

Matteo

 

+1 to what Ataru074 said

the car doesn't move on a dyno, just the drivetrain parts

the dyno doesn't care how much the car itself weighs, but physics does care and less dead weight will accelerate faster in the real world



btw, one other variable factor in dynotesting on any other dyno other than a dynapak is how hard the car is strapped down to the dyno. Not an issue for dynapak dynos though where the wheel hubs are directly attached to the dyno

 

Do you have Stock FW and Clutch?