aggietsi

+1

collinsGTO

havent you already seen the dyno chart? you and her were talking about it before, so you should've already seen it... her comp died, but i'll see if the redstar still has it on file and tell him to email it to me. why would we lie about that? its stupid. thats like saying my car didnt make 390 with bolt ons because it was tuned the same day. wanna see my chart too? that one i've got

gothchick

iTrader: (12)

No. I never saw her 280whp or even 270whp dynos. Not saying anybody is lying, just want to see the chart. Would you mind posting it? Thanks!

I don't really care about your 390whp GTO dynos as this isn't a GTO forum.

collinsGTO

i just emailed my tuner asking if he still has it on file. if he does, i'd be more than happy to post it.

aggietsi

What compression is she running?

baby_ruiner

iTrader: (1)

im on stock compression. i will post the 270 dyno when i get it, like my bf said my comp died and its not on top of my tuners to do list.

i would also like to see gothchicks 288 dyno, it would be intresting to see the difference bw the de and revup with the same mods

MDeezy

in for more info....

gothchick

iTrader: (12)

You guys are kinda all over the map. So far we've heard of 280whp , then 270whp, your bf says you have higher compression, now you're saying you have stock compression and you lost the dyno... Very confusing ... And with 255whp that you're now reporting, are you sure they actually put aftermarket cams in? Not trying to be a smartass, just wondering...

Anyway, please let us know when you get your dyno. I'd still really like to see it. With what you've been paying your tuner, and him being such a great friend of yours, it should be at the top of his list~ Thanks! :-)

I'm kinda doubting we have the 'same mods' as you put it, but here's a list of what my power mods consist of so far.

Breather mods:

DIY Cold Air Intake Hood Mod + Grill Mod
06 Airbox w/ Amsoil High Flow Dropin Filter
MD ISO 5/16 Spacer
MD Copper TB Heater bypass valve
MD MREV2 Lower Collector (Inside polished)
Upper Plenum (Inside polished)
DC Sport Headers w/ Header Wrap
Kinetix Resonated Test Pipes w/ Header wrap w/ Dual widebands
HKS True Dual Exhaust w/ X-Pipe fabrication (Header wrapped up to the x-pipe)
Passenger Side Crank Case Oil Catch Can
Driver's Side Crank Case Breather

Tuning mods:

Orisis ECU Flash
TXS UTEC
TXS Tuner (Reg)
AEM UEGO AFR Gauge

Cooling mods (helps with heatsoak):

Heat shielded Airbox, MAF Assembly, and Intake Tube
Heat shielded fuel lines
Koyo 53mm Radiator R2577
Nismo Rad Cap (not sure how much this really helps)
APS Finned Oil Pan Cooler
Nismo Finned Differential Cover


Most recent dyno:

I opted not to print out the AFR's since I tune from my UTEC Logs (which is more precise).

Since we're local to each other, if you'd like to get into self tuning, let me know - I'd love to help. :-)

gothchick

iTrader: (12)

Almost forgot - My most recent UTEC road tune log.

Didn't mean to crap in your thread. I'm out.

Let me know if I can help with anything.

collinsGTO

no no no no no.....

we never said 280, someone else did... also i was being a smartass about higher compression in the built n/a z's. i never said she had higher compression. also, the 255 is COMPLETELY untuned with the utec set to the 0 map. please use a little reading comprehension instead of assuming things. yes, the cams are aftermarket cams. her mechanic too pics of the different lobe sizes to prove it. no, i do not have these pics, so don't ask for them. rest assured when the car is tuned, we will report our findings as to stop all questions. not trying to be an *** about anything, i'm just tired of ppl being like oh bs, post proof, yadda yadda. you dont believe me? lol that's not a problem i really care about.

rednezz

iTrader: (1)

Baby Ruiner said she dynoed 280.

https://my350z.com/forum/showpost.ph...8&postcount=63

For me I just want to see you dyno sheet to compare to see where else I could possibly make more power. However, when you say you dyno one number then turn around and say you didn't say that and that you dyno'ed a lower number and don't show any actual dyno data to support you claims on your mods it makes people question what you really have.

raditz

gothchick, why you are retarding timing 2 or 3 degrees? that way it gives you more power?

gothchick

iTrader: (12)

Good question~ :-)

In some places in my curve the ECU wants to advance timing more than is optimal. This is because I set my AFR targets a little leaner than what the ECU wanted to run, and I was getting light knock. As a point of reference, my factory ECU tune wanted to run as high as 14:1 AFR in the low rpm's all the way down to 11:1 AFR near redline. This was not an acceptable NA tune. Lol!

So after getting my AFR's on target, I advanced timing as far as I could before getting knock, then backed it off (2) degrees so EGT's (exhaust gas temps) wouldn't go too high. It may look like more or less than (2) degrees in certain places because the ECU is not as stable or static as UTEC and tends to jump around a little.

Excessive EGT's are caused by excessive timing and/or too lean of an AFR - Excessive EGT's can damage exhaust valves and other components. That's why a lot of the 'hard core' folks use titanium valve train components to run leaner and get more timing. I currently have no way of measuring EGT's, so I'm just trying to play it safe.

From what I've seen, the "Law of Diminishing Returns" starts to come into play and the extra few degrees of timing didn't make a lot of difference in increasing horsepower on the dyno, but supposedly it will raise EGT's.

baby_ruiner

iTrader: (1)

sorry for the typo. i did put down 270/265 and if you feel so inclined you can email my tuner @ redstarperformance@mac.com and ask him for the dyno reading yourself. i asked him a week ago and havent gotten an email so i doubt you will. or you can call him, number is on www.redstarperformance.com, and he will vouch those numbers. like i said again, thanks for the refrence, ill go change that information to the correct numbers. sorry you all are having tq envy. the three ppl who have valid knowledge on this topic will recieve pm's from me. i have been nothing but honest in my posting all over this board. again, thanks for correcting me and ill edit that post. you have the contacts to get all the proof you need

baby_ruiner

iTrader: (1)

you have full bolt ons and so do i, just a different engine. as far as my research i think your cooling mods have minimal gain when you are tuning/dynoing. i do heart my tuner and have no intention of tuning it myself since im sure his knoweldge vastly surpasses both mine and yours. what i do take from it is the information i get from watching him and interacting during tuning to increase my knowledge of the car. and yes my cams are in they have that cute little vq cammed lope and she screams like a b!tch on the dyno like she never has before

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Just wanted to add "excessively retarded timing" in that list also. Engines that are detonating from advanced timing will tend to overheat but EGTs will rise from excessively retarded timing from the burn process being incomplete at the time the exhaust valve opens. Important to know if you are tuning using EGTs.

gothchick

iTrader: (12)

Very good point, thanks for adding! :-)

I can't find it now, but someone posted a vid of the combustion process a while back. They embedded the cam in the cylinder wall, and it actually survived a couple combustion cycles. Lol! Very cool vid showed the fuel vapor coming into the cylinder, getting compressed, firing, exhausting, replenishing... :-)

gothchick

iTrader: (12)

Ahh yes, but if you actually looked at my mod list and understood the reasons for the enhancements to my mods, you'd realize my boltons are not simply 'bolted on' like yours. We've improved upon my boltons greatly. And cooling mods make a bigger difference than you give them credit for. Up to 10~15whp worth. I'm not sure what 'research' you've actually done since you use your tuner as a crutch, but my work with UpRev Orisis tuning, and my own extensive NA UTEC tuning knowledge show that temps play a huge role in whp. Take it for what it's worth...

Did you know the ECU retards timing by 2 degrees when coolent temps are below 80C and above 120C? That's why I recommend against the Nismo Thermostat which opens at 60C. The stocker is fine because it opens at 80C. Did you know heatsoak will rob you of 1whp for every 10 degrees under the hood? For this I highly recommend heatsheilding the entire intake assembly and fuel lines (but while you're at it, might as well shield the power steering lines, clutch line, AC lines, any electrical lines near the headers/turbos, etc). Did you know engines in general are much more prone to knock when they're heatsoaked vs when they're not? Keeping the engine cool means you can run much more aggressive tuning. I didn't realize lots of things until I rolled up my sleeves and started doing this stuff.

How about the exhaust? X-pipes are more effecient than h-pipes in promoting the scavenging effect which increases whp. Wrapping your headers, test pipes, and y pipe will keep the exhaust hot, and therefore keep it's velocity high. Why do we care about this? Because it also increases the effeciency of the 'scavanging' affect which increases whp that much more. Some people in various race circuits have reported up to 10whp. And wrapping the exhaust keeps those power-robbing under hood temps down! :-)

But back to cooling - cooling makes a big difference and is why I went with the added expense of cooling mods. For instance - When I'm sitting at a red light with someone, by the time the light turns green, they're heat soaked and I am not. For that hundred or so feet until we get moving, I have a 10~15 whp advantage just from keeping my engine & components cool. ;-) But once you're moving above 30-35mph, the cooling mods have less affect in combatting heatsoak.

If you're running a short ram intake like the pop charger, the decrease in whp is even worse due to heat soak.

BTW - did you find your dynos yet? It would be invaluable for our forum to see your pre-cam & post-cam dynos helping to further our VQ knowledge. :-)

Another typo? There's a lot of that going around lately... I'm having difficulty keeping up with your changing hp/tq claims. I mean 'typos'.
Are you sure your 265 torque claim isn't also a 'typo'? Seems very high compared to the 270 whp you now claim. Heck I'm only at 285/252. Rednezz is at 294/260. Adam (Z1 Auto) is at 304/250 on a DD.
I bet if you just posted up your actual dynos it would eliminate a lot of the 'typos' and confusion...

baby_ruiner

iTrader: (1)

omg you care all too much about your little Z. its a Z congrats! want a cookie? i gave you the contact info on where to get the dyno information. your ethugging your doing does absolutly nothing to contribute to life. arent you like 35 yrs old? its arrogant ppl like you who own Zs who give Z owners a bad name. congrats on you being able to google research, hell if i wanted a valid rubutle i would but it ehh ghey. i stated once i made 280whp, accepted it was a typo and changed it. I GAVE YOU THE CONTACT INFO ON WHERE TO OBTAIN THE DYNOS! so you can drop your sarcasm and grow up. if you want the dynos so badly you can contact eli @ redstarperformce.com, as stated above. but since you and your buddy lack reading comprehension i can understand how you missed that refernce. you seemed cool when you first messaged me when i had an issue with my first tuner/tune. since then you have grown arrogant and pompous. ill state again, im sorry for the typo but me and my bf have only stated in this thread i made 270/265 precammed on my tune. i didnt make this thread with the intention of bragging or sharing my "omg i know so much about the Z looky at what i did" information. i was seeking input from ppl who actually had experience with cams.

ohh and ps i doubt your Z suffers from heat soak that bad on the dyno. i can see the importance of it on the track when the car is getting pushed past normal extremes. I guess i should start comparing your fierce n/a monster's heat soak to that of a gt500, good thing you have your heat wrap

raditz

So as I understand you, in the VQ makes more power to maintain a correct AFR than advance timing isn't it?