Help...WHY
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does my load site never reach 100%???
it goes up to 70% and stops...
I have attached a log file... my car is running EXTREMELY lean...even shows some knock
I am going to upgrade versions of the utec tonight to 2.8 instead of the 2.4 that its on now....
this was a 3rd gear pull...
any ideas??? help...comments...suggestions...prayers??
it goes up to 70% and stops...
I have attached a log file... my car is running EXTREMELY lean...even shows some knock
I am going to upgrade versions of the utec tonight to 2.8 instead of the 2.4 that its on now....
this was a 3rd gear pull...
any ideas??? help...comments...suggestions...prayers??
Well, your load site is based on your parameters - specifically your "MAP Minimum value for mapping" and "MAP Maximum..." values. If your max is set to say 12 psi and you are only hitting 8, then that's obviously the reason.
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ok lemme check on this...for some reason i believe this is set to like 15! i maybe wrong tho... being that far off could this be why it would run lean? car thinks its under less load than it actually is? or is that even possible?
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ok it was set at 12...i lowered that...got that str8...still crazy lean...fuel pressure set at 52psi at idle no vac...no vac leaks...guess its time to try and richin it up...just dont understand how all this has changed...i had a clog in my return line causing 80+psi fuel pressure for awhile...now thats fixed and still lean...
you need to get this thing up to a shop to look at it.
those timing values look horrible. also, that is really knock so be careful...
also, how is that bucking when the utec takes over?
you also have a weird boost controller issue or a wastegate issue going on..
those timing values look horrible. also, that is really knock so be careful...also, how is that bucking when the utec takes over?
you also have a weird boost controller issue or a wastegate issue going on..
Last edited by Audible Mayhem; Mar 27, 2008 at 05:17 PM.
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yeah the knock scares me quite a bit and it def would probably be best to take it somewhere...
haven't experienced any bucking..yet..
that would be my passenger side wastegate...it would stick open and stay open...now i have a feeling its just stuck closed...
i made a new log after a few adjustments to the map threshold...ill post that in a min
haven't experienced any bucking..yet..
that would be my passenger side wastegate...it would stick open and stay open...now i have a feeling its just stuck closed...
i made a new log after a few adjustments to the map threshold...ill post that in a min
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im affraid of messing things up with how lean its running so this is just another short 4th gear pull
and also isnt the MAF sensor supposed to be maxed out by like 4700ish rpms??? hence why you have to go by speed density???
all this is so new to me
and also isnt the MAF sensor supposed to be maxed out by like 4700ish rpms??? hence why you have to go by speed density???
all this is so new to me
Last edited by HoldThisForMe; Mar 27, 2008 at 05:34 PM.
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yeah im watching the WB and rpms...kinda difficult doing this alone ahaha
WOT im in the 14's and as the rpms go up so does the AF into the 15's then i let off...not very precise i know but it would be nice to see some blue instead of red and even redder...
WOT im in the 14's and as the rpms go up so does the AF into the 15's then i let off...not very precise i know but it would be nice to see some blue instead of red and even redder...
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ight i took the entire Fuel map up by 10... i did not see any 15's this time but i still didnt want to take it any higher in rpms as there is still knock...shall i go up some more???
what is your setup? i think you should load a base map and param file from the TurboXS site.
Like Jeremy said, your timings are whack. without loggin AF, its hard to tell whats going on. what wideband do you have? for 20$ you can get the UTI software to log UTEC and wideband on the same page. Its a MUST for DIY street tuning.
i'd start with a clean map and go from there.
Like Jeremy said, your timings are whack. without loggin AF, its hard to tell whats going on. what wideband do you have? for 20$ you can get the UTI software to log UTEC and wideband on the same page. Its a MUST for DIY street tuning.
i'd start with a clean map and go from there.
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running the Innovate LC-1
Yea i was reading up on that and it definitely would help out because right now im really just throwing values out there just to get it rich...I got it in the 12's now which is still lean to me but its a hell of a lot better than it was...just wants to fall on its face in some ranges...timing more than likely oh and still getting knock...
If i was to start with a clean map should I still keep my parameters correct?
Yea i was reading up on that and it definitely would help out because right now im really just throwing values out there just to get it rich...I got it in the 12's now which is still lean to me but its a hell of a lot better than it was...just wants to fall on its face in some ranges...timing more than likely oh and still getting knock...
If i was to start with a clean map should I still keep my parameters correct?
Last edited by HoldThisForMe; Mar 27, 2008 at 07:44 PM.
the thing is that you need to fully understand every single one of those parameters before you can tune the car. this is going to cost you between 4000-10000 when you blow your motor up.
well worth paying someone 500 to tune the thing.
its all fun and games until you hear some extra noises here soon...
well worth paying someone 500 to tune the thing.
its all fun and games until you hear some extra noises here soon...
Originally Posted by HoldThisForMe
ok it was set at 12...i lowered that...got that str8
At least you are willing to mess with things unlike most people, but maybe most people are a little more worried about ruining their motor

As Jeremy said, before uploading any new base maps or playing around the with parameters, be sure to read the manual first to understand them.
are you data logging your A/F? how can you modify the right cell if you are just looking at the gauge? Are you sure your wideband is well calibrated and reading the Right A/F?
You seem to have to many problem and my first suggestion is bring it to a ProShop!
You seem to have to many problem and my first suggestion is bring it to a ProShop!
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i guess when you already blew one motor the second time around isnt as bad...
i just want to learn and actually be different from most everyone...oh well
and im reading
sooner or later ill figure it out...gotta start somewhere
as for logging af no im not...its lean all the way through...gonna try this UTI thing and what that is like
if all else fails and motor doesnt then ill take it somewhere...if motor fails then i have an ls1 ready to go and im giving up boost lol
i just want to learn and actually be different from most everyone...oh well
and im reading

sooner or later ill figure it out...gotta start somewhere
as for logging af no im not...its lean all the way through...gonna try this UTI thing and what that is like
if all else fails and motor doesnt then ill take it somewhere...if motor fails then i have an ls1 ready to go and im giving up boost lol
To successfully log, you gotta wire your wideband to a serial db9 connector to plug it into your laptop just fyi OP
I believe there is a value of time you can set to offset the a/f being delayed.. if that makes any sense
I believe there is a value of time you can set to offset the a/f being delayed.. if that makes any sense
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yeah i was wondering how that would work because the manual doesnt tell you how to actually "wire" it up...
I believe there is something else going astray based on me up the pulse width and it still being lean altho not quite as lean...
I have sourced another long block for pretty cheap so thats gonna be my backup
I believe there is something else going astray based on me up the pulse width and it still being lean altho not quite as lean...
I have sourced another long block for pretty cheap so thats gonna be my backup


