View Poll Results: How do you break in your newly built motor? FI/NA
Voters: 50. You may not vote on this poll
Poll on Engine Break in methods?
Poll on Engine Break in methods?
Im just curious to see the various shops/tuners/DIY's methods to break in their new motors and seat the rings..Please Vote, then discuss, give reasons please..
Us, we personally break in all our motors on 10-40 Rotella Oil (for Desiels) which in our opinion and experience allows for a good amount of break in wear to seat the rings..It contains alot of the sulfers and additives conventional motor oil removes for emmissions..We love it, then go to synthetic at about 2000-3000 miles.
We break in 500 miles on the road, no or VERY low boost, variable RPM ranges (Stop and go driving preffered..)
Then we tune on dyno for low boost map and break in for another 1000 miles before going high boost maps..total miles, about 1500 break in.
Us, we personally break in all our motors on 10-40 Rotella Oil (for Desiels) which in our opinion and experience allows for a good amount of break in wear to seat the rings..It contains alot of the sulfers and additives conventional motor oil removes for emmissions..We love it, then go to synthetic at about 2000-3000 miles.
We break in 500 miles on the road, no or VERY low boost, variable RPM ranges (Stop and go driving preffered..)
Then we tune on dyno for low boost map and break in for another 1000 miles before going high boost maps..total miles, about 1500 break in.
I like this thread Julian... but it probably makes no real difference in the end cuase people should just follow what ever their tuner recomends. Customers just see end result 
You know your method has worked flawlesly for you so far, no need to debate it
You know your method has worked flawlesly for you so far, no need to debate it
Last edited by IIQuickSilverII; May 16, 2008 at 09:19 AM.
Opinions are going to varying on how this should be done and what is the "correct" way to break in an engine. This is what has worked for me.
First is not a good idea to have to break-in a new engine without having a good base map for the EMS.
Second, prime the engine oiling system and also preheat the engine oil if you can.
Start the engine and bring the revs up to 2000-2500 for at least 30secs, at this point you can vary the engine rpm but try to minimize any idling.
Put the car on the dyno, use forth gear and do some 1/4 throttle pulls using about half of the engine rev range it's important to let the car engine brake on decel.
Do that about 3-4 time and then let the car cool down.
Repeat the same procedure above using 3/4 of the rev range and then same thing using the complete rev range.
You'll notice a few things. It's going to sound like you are killing the engine and it's going smoke a good amount during decel. You will also notice if you are watching the engine torque output in real time it will keep increasing to a certain point. Once you've reach that point the torque stops increasing the rings are seated and it should not smoke on decel anymore.
Change the engine oil and filter.
You are now ready to do full throttle runs.
First is not a good idea to have to break-in a new engine without having a good base map for the EMS.
Second, prime the engine oiling system and also preheat the engine oil if you can.
Start the engine and bring the revs up to 2000-2500 for at least 30secs, at this point you can vary the engine rpm but try to minimize any idling.
Put the car on the dyno, use forth gear and do some 1/4 throttle pulls using about half of the engine rev range it's important to let the car engine brake on decel.
Do that about 3-4 time and then let the car cool down.
Repeat the same procedure above using 3/4 of the rev range and then same thing using the complete rev range.
You'll notice a few things. It's going to sound like you are killing the engine and it's going smoke a good amount during decel. You will also notice if you are watching the engine torque output in real time it will keep increasing to a certain point. Once you've reach that point the torque stops increasing the rings are seated and it should not smoke on decel anymore.
Change the engine oil and filter.
You are now ready to do full throttle runs.
My 2 cents. Torcousa.com offers true break in fluid designed specifically for this application. I even run it the first 30 minutes on dealer bought new cars. After 30 minutes you swap over to your normal oil and you're good to go.
Most of the shops I've dealt with have used Torco products, and the guys there are very knowledgeable. They make their own formulations based on application, it's not a one size fits all kind of oil like the other companies. I can't stress enough how much that sort of attention to detail matters on initial start up.
Most of the shops I've dealt with have used Torco products, and the guys there are very knowledgeable. They make their own formulations based on application, it's not a one size fits all kind of oil like the other companies. I can't stress enough how much that sort of attention to detail matters on initial start up.
Originally Posted by ForcefedZ
Put the car on the dyno, use forth gear and do some 1/4 throttle pulls using about half of the engine rev range it's important to let the car engine brake on decel.
Originally Posted by ForcefedZ
Do that about 3-4 time and then let the car cool down.
Originally Posted by ForcefedZ
You will also notice if you are watching the engine torque output in real time it will keep increasing to a certain point. Once you've reach that point the torque stops increasing the rings are seated and it should not smoke on decel anymore.
.
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Just when you thought you knew it all, you learn something new each day..
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Originally Posted by UpRev
My 2 cents. Torcousa.com offers true break in fluid designed specifically for this application. I even run it the first 30 minutes on dealer bought new cars. After 30 minutes you swap over to your normal oil and you're good to go.
Most of the shops I've dealt with have used Torco products, and the guys there are very knowledgeable. They make their own formulations based on application, it's not a one size fits all kind of oil like the other companies. I can't stress enough how much that sort of attention to detail matters on initial start up.
Most of the shops I've dealt with have used Torco products, and the guys there are very knowledgeable. They make their own formulations based on application, it's not a one size fits all kind of oil like the other companies. I can't stress enough how much that sort of attention to detail matters on initial start up.
Originally Posted by Julian@MRC
How many motors have you broken in with this fluid? Im interested in trying some of this out as well..
Torco is expensive oil, but this is an expensive hobby.
Mike Ribas is the man to talk to at Torco, tell him Rich sent you. They have decent pricing for dealers, and they have distributors nationwide.
Originally Posted by UpRev
Last 5 of my cars have been done that way. The engine builders I've worked with that build track motors for cars/motorcycles/watercraft all use it. Torco used to be the supplier of the assembly lube that came with all the ARP studs till ARP got cheap about it. I keep a few bottles of it around for stuff around the shop in case bolts don't come with Torco assembly lube.
Torco is expensive oil, but this is an expensive hobby.
Mike Ribas is the man to talk to at Torco, tell him Rich sent you. They have decent pricing for dealers, and they have distributors nationwide.
Torco is expensive oil, but this is an expensive hobby.
Mike Ribas is the man to talk to at Torco, tell him Rich sent you. They have decent pricing for dealers, and they have distributors nationwide.
Originally Posted by Julian@MRC
Is it a synthetic oil itself or is it added to the oil? You got a link to the product itslef?
Torco makes synthetic and non synthetic oils. The Assembly lube links...
http://www.torcousa.com/products/pro...c-b3299fb9413b
http://www.torcousa.com/products/pro...d-0ff152ef0f45
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