ZA_350Z

I got my tune back from UpRev (was surprised after seeing that other guys have waited a month in past, obviously they upped their game). They were quite happy with my current tune but changed a bit as follows:

ZA_350Z

OK, nearly bricked my car!

Flashed the new ROM and got an error, after that the car couldn't start and the ECU was not readable. Manage to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery and all sorted after that.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

THESE TABLES ARE FOR A VERY SPECIFIC F/I SETUP! I'm running GT25 twins with 600CC DW's, AAM basic fuel return, and HPX MAF. Don't be stupid and start making power pulls with these tables on YOUR setup. Tune it right and use these values as starting points if you want.

This tune actually took me almost a year to perfect a little here, a little there, learn from mistake and start over and repeat, ect ect. Some so-called 'tuning shops' and even exhaust parts and turbo kit manufacturers could learn alot from this post.

As of now it's running perfect in every way from startup, mid throttle, and WOT. A/F in close and open loop are right on target. As you can see, most of the fuel work was done on the MAF table. Basically the car drives exactly like stock in and out of boost, with zero misfire.

If you're not running a fuel return system, you're going to be rich at low loads, and lean out hard in higher loads with this map so be aware! If you are running a return setup, set your base pressure to 48psi (or adjust the K accordingly to your pressure).

FYI I made 400whp with this tune at 8.3psi and power all the way to 7krpm in 108 degree ambient temps and major heatsoak. And I'm also running cats, so there's probably more power to be had.

K fuel adjusted for my base pressure and injectors:


Injector minimum for DW 600 IMPORTANT that you upgrade to the latest ROM editor, as the older versions apply the wrong values:


Latency for DW 600 - IMPORTANT that you upgrade to the latest ROM editor, as the older versions apply the wrong values:


Startup enrichment - you need to pull ALOT from here especially at the bottom:


Load table (needed for 5AT only -- I did it anyways so my logs looked better). Once you dial in your max fuel schedule on the fuel tables, adjust this so you're hitting 100% whenever you're in boost. If you don't do this correctly, the torque converter will not lock up and it will granny shift to an early demise:


MAF table for my HPX MAF -- IMPORTANT - If you don't have a fuel return system, these MAF values will NOT be a good base map for you to start with, in fact it will make life more difficult!!! start with the Uprev tuned HPX MAF table instead. This table is where I spent most of my time. Yours will flatten out at a different lower voltage since they suck bawls at idle. It's a delicate balance of fuel compensation and flattening to keep the A/F from bouncing at idle. At first, I tweaked the idle and free revving voltages manually by going over logs and making manual adjustments. Once it was somewhat drivable (out of boost), I took some logs of driving around normally and started making adjustments with my maf tool. Eventually I did a super rich boost pull and made more manual adjustments in the boost voltages. Once I was in the ballpark, I again used the maf tool to get the A/F exactly where I wanted it at all boost levels.


Cylinder trim -- I'm glad uprev included this, because I was running about 0.6 a/f leaner on bank 2 in boost which required 6% increase in fuel for bank 2 to iron out -- you should probably skip this at first and see how far your banks are off in boost before adjusting.


Fuel target -- this has been adjusted with F/I and stock block in mind. take CAREFUL notice of the fuel schedule on the horizontal axis! You need to change the maximum value on the axis, then use the linear interpolation button on the whole row to smooth it out. This has to be done to timing table too! This DOES NOT happen automatically! If you changed your redline, do the SAME THING to the RPM column! The actual max fuel schedule totally depends on your fuel system. Yours will be higher without a fuel return, or with smaller injectors. On your first WOT pull, see how far the cursor goes to the right and adjust until it gets at least 80% accross the table.


Fuel comp - I made most of my adjustments to the MAF table (manually to get in ballpark, then finished off using my tool http://djlab.com/uprev/maf.php) so the fuel table is mostly flat except for idle and cranking trims:


Timing main - Be sure to adjust the fuel schedle accordingly just like the fuel target table. Also, don't run this high of timing unless you have knock headphones and know what to listen for. This map starts around 13deg at 3krpm and reaches 17deg at redline at 9psi (you should start with less!). Notice how it is smoothed out in the low-load areas so there isn't a big jumps in timing in any direction. The key is no big jumps in values, because the ECU doesn't like that and you will end up with instability. IMPORTANT If you run too low of timing in low load (left half) you can end up with a 'danger to manifold' situation as EGT's will go thru the roof!:


Timing hi-det - copy and paste the main timing and subtract 4-5 from everything:


Cranking timing (A Table): Adding some timing at higher temps on the A table seems to help with warm starts.


Intake cams - RPM's are scaled and cam advance is mostly stock, except extended for the new redline:


Idle targets (slight bump):


DTC disable - You should ONLY have to disable the two catalyst codes. If you throw any other codes, you've got a problem with the car or your tune. Misfire codes or codes of any other type should NOT occur with proper tuning and all sensors in place. In my year of struggling with this ***** of an ECU, I learned through trial and error the lower o2's play a big role in closed loop operation. If you have them removed from the exhaust stream with non-foulers, steel wool, or simply tied up (like on the momentum kit) you'll have issues dialing in your closed loop trims and may even throw bank range/lean/rich codes with an unstable A/F over time:



And finally, a 2nd and 3rd gear pull:

djamps

iTrader: (1)

A word of advice when using the tool, be sure to set the filter to only show data for Accelerator Position voltage >1.0 volts or so. This eliminates decel from skewing the results.

Another bit of advice, when you change injector latency values you throw off the entire tune. I had to redo my whole tune when I found the correct values for the DW600's.

Here's the thing, you don't have factory widebands so I don't know how effective the tool can actually be. It's kind of like shooting in the dark. I'd say as long as your corrections are all +/- 10% you're good enough, at least for the closed loop area because it will never be spot on since narrowbands are so slow. The rest you'll have to dial in by hand either by doing some dyno runs with A/F or merging the LC1 with Rom Editor.

If you can send me a sample log with LC1 data merged in by Rom Editor, I can update the tool to show you the actual A/F's just like the factory W/B would instead of all 0's.

0jiggy0

iTrader: (13)

Great info djamps. I didn't know you could extend the x axis on the fuel and timing. I was wondering what I would do if I decided to rev my car higher in the future with proper mods(HR)

djamps

iTrader: (1)

Yep, you can modify all the X and Y axis values... it isn't mentioned in the manual, Jared@uprev informed me via an email conversation. be sure to apply smoothing across the whole axis when you change the end value, ect.

Neal516

awesome post DJ amps! thank you so much!

question-why have you limited your stoich to only the first column tho? The stock N/A maps have it extended pretty far. Is it because you are hitting boost really low?

djamps

iTrader: (1)

Look at the fuel schedule scale (x-axis). 1st column is 0-6 ms so the crosshair doesn't move to the right unless I'm at least half throttle at which point the cursor moves and a/f starts to drop. For the most part the a/f stays around 14.7 unless I go above -2psi or so. Due to injector size and fuel return system, my fuel schedule is much different than without a fuel return... in fact, my IDC eventually drops as boost/rpm increases, you can see it on the log I posted.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

I probably could have scaled down the max fuel schedule as well (17ms is way higher than I need now) but I had plans for E85 where I'll need it, still not sure if I'm going to try that or not.

LittleFlyBoy

Got this from another post:

Well I just got a response from Mike at Deatschwerks after I emailed them regarding the correct injector latency for the Deatschwerks 600cc injectors. According to Mike the correct values are:

6v - 3.57
7v - 2.87
8v - 2.42
9v - 2.10
10v - 1.88
11v - 1.71
12v - 1.59
13v - 1.47
14v - 1.35
15v - 1.27
16v - 1.19
17v - 1.12

Seems to be the same injectors you (and me as well) have. Can you explain the different values you use. Starts at same voltage, but slope is lot steeper.

Thanx

djamps

iTrader: (1)

Uprev latency is a linear line but the actual curve is not linear. So the idea is to get it as close as possible in the normal operating ranges (10-14v ect) and let the rest do what it may.

BTW I used values from my actual flow sheet that came with my injectors, not the generic ones floating about:

17 - 1.1
16 - 1.2
15 - 1.2
14 - 1.3
13 - 1.5
12 - 1.6
11 - 1.8
10 - 2.0

EDIT my values are a bit off not sure why. I think an uprev update at some point messed them up...good catch

djamps

iTrader: (1)

After a 5 runs at the track yesterday I have an updated timing map. With quick-spool turbos like GT25/28 there is some finessing you have to do with the left side (no load) above 4500rpm to eliminate 'perceived' shift knock by the ECU. I'm making a few more runs in a couple weeks and will post the final timing map after I confirm my suspicion and hopefully eliminate shift knock timing retard.

If anyone has any other suggestions/comments for my maps please post them!

Mkai0

This good info, especially since I just bought the tuner cable for my GTM Supercharged 08 G35 Sedan. The last Uprev tuner that tuned my car told he wasn't able to eliminate my hot start issue. I'm not buying that answer, so now I'll have the ability to use the tuner I want. I believe with the right tuner and right knowledge this issue can be eliminated. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

It can be fixed but it's alot of trial and error. most tuners would rather tell you it's just how it is rather than go the extra mile to fix it.

Mkai0

Thanks djamps, I figured the tuner didn't want to take the time to fix it. I didn't pay him $400 for a dyno tune to get that answer. I'll be bringing it to another tuner to see if he can fix the issue. I'm glad I have the tuner cable now, which is what I should have done before.

KingBaby

iTrader: (3)

In for more!

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

i think that its more like the owners do not want to pay that "extra mile"/ hourly charge for the tuner to dial it in

400$ for a tune is so cheap, if i was the tuner i wouldnt spend all that time either.

most dyno rental is 200/hr and then 100/hr for tuning.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

+1 you get what you get for $400. At the going rate around here ($1000+ for an F/I tune) I'd expect perfection.

Mkai0

Initially I paid $850 for Uprev and dyno tune for car when it was NA by the same tuner. The tuner told me once I go FI, which I now am, he would charge me roughly $400 for a dyno tune since I now have Uprev on my car. Are you saying that I should be paying a lot more than $400 to get a good dyno tune even after having Uprev with a good base map on my car?

KingBaby

iTrader: (3)

After initial tune you should just be paying for dyno use and the tuners time!