mafoor

iTrader: (17)

Hey guys, i finally got my UTEC installed and im having a few problems and was hoping to get some help here.

First, here is some details on my car. I just installed RC750cc injectors and an aeromotive stealth 340 pump, with -6AN feed and a return line with an aeromitive fpr on the return.

Now, i already loaded the txs greddy 750cc basemap and parameters map. The first time i started the car it was pig rich. So i play with the numbers in the 0% column and the idle leaned out to about 13.5 but when i try to rev it, it goes pig rich and stalls out.

I switched the screen to the UTEC dashboard b4 i started the car to check everything out. Then i started the car and let it idle, and the load site on the dashboard was reading 100%. Im new to the UTEC but shouldnt that read 0% at idle?

Just trying to figure this thing out so i can get it drivable for right now untilll i can get it tuned. Any help would be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Mike

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

did you set your tps and app voltage?

mafoor

iTrader: (17)

Well i bought the utec off a member on here a while back n when i started the car the first time the tps was at 0% at idle so i didnt think i had to calibrate the tps, so no i didnt calibrate the tps. Also im not sure what you mean by the app voltage?

djamps

iTrader: (1)

Read the UTEC manual carefully. It explains in great detail what everything does and what you need to do. Regarding the 100% load issue, make sure you're in speed density mode, and have the MAP sensor hooked up properly and showing correct psi on dashboard. You'll also need to set/calibrate a bunch of things like load range, app/tps voltage, maf clamping, ect ect. Don't assume just because you bought it from a member that he did everything for you, or did it right for that matter. Sounds like you really need to just drop it off with a qualified UTEC tuner. You're in PA, check out R/T Tuning.

mafoor

iTrader: (17)

Yea the map sensor is reading the same as my boost gauge so i assume its correct, but since im having problems im just going to recalibrate everything so i know that its all done right. As far as a tuner goes, i already know who im having tune it and hes only about a half hour away from me. I just dont have the extra cash right now, its tied up in other things

Hopefully recalibrating everything will get the car running so i can atleast drive it for now. Its been about a year now since ive gotten to drive the thing, i mainly want to drive it to be sure i have all the bugs worked out before i take it to the tuner and end up having problems on the dyno or atleast keep them to a minimum.

Thanks for the replies, ill post back after i have time to recalibrate everything.

Mike

djamps

iTrader: (1)

Why not just tow it if it's only 30 min away? Why risk everything over saving a few bucks?

<edit> nevermind I read that you want to try to work bugs out first. Whatever you do stay out of boost, as much as you want to be in boost or get a little taste of it.

mafoor

iTrader: (17)

Yea i plan to trailer the car to the tuner either way just in case something goes wrong on the dyno. As far as staying out of boost, i have a vortech so i can just remove the cog belt so im not tempted to tip into boost. Im hoping to mess with it tonight and see if recalibrating everything fixes my problems.

mafoor

iTrader: (17)

Well i got to mess with it and ive narrowed the problem down to the map sensor. I could have sworn last time i looked it was reading correctly, but earlier when the car was idling the map was reading 60psi. I tried a different vacuum source and that didnt change anything. I bought the map sensor new...any ideas what could be the problem??

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

you have the proper calibrations in for the map sensor? it shoulda came with a card

mafoor

iTrader: (17)

well i had it calibrated but since I had the problems I changed them back to the txs base map numbers in case i messed up but that didn't change anything. Would the map sensor not being properly calibrated make it read that far off though?

djamps

iTrader: (1)

You sure you're on speed density mode? What are the open loop high and low values (psi?)

mafoor

iTrader: (17)

Yea i checked to make sure it was on speed density and reading off of map. The open loop values are what ever the txs base map for the 750's is set at. What are usual symptoms of a bad map sensor, and how common is a bad map sensor?

djamps

iTrader: (1)

You said the dashboard reads the correct PSI, that means the MAP sensor is good. Check the values for open loop low and high PSI. Set the low to 0psi and the high to the max PSI you plan to run.

mafoor

iTrader: (17)

No i thought the dasboard was reading correctly but it isn't. At idle it is reading 60psi. I called txs and talked to someone about the problem and he said it could be one of 3 things:

1.) Bad vacuum source- I hooked it up to a different line and had no change
2.) Possible bad map sensor- Don't really know how to determine this
3.) Possible problem with the utec itself that it cant read the map sensor correctly

I guess the only way to determine 2 and 3 is to replace the map sensor and if that doesn't work then replace the utec, but i really dont want to have to buy another utec.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

Check the wiring for the MAP sensor, especially the little plug that goes into the UTEC. Mine had a pin slip out a bit and it read 0PSI all the time...if another pin pulled out maybe it would read high, I dunno.

mafoor

iTrader: (17)

Ok ill check that out next time i get over to the shop to mess with it. I checked to make sure it was plugged in the whole way last time i messed with it but didnt pull it out and look at the pins or anything. Thanks, ill check that out.

mafoor

iTrader: (17)

Ok i checked out the map sensor and everything looked ok. So i ordered another one to see if that fixed the problem....and it didnt. Im still seeing 60psi at idle, still reading off the 100% load column, and is reading roughly 1.57 volts. So is the last possible problem a bum utec?? I dont know what else to try/check. Even though im getting nowhere i appreciate all the help lol

Rated Z

You mentioned that you tapped into a different line for your vacuum source. Can you explain?
Have you researched tapping directly into your upper plenum inserting a barb then running your map sensor into a vacuum line?
IE: UTEC --> Map Sensor --> Vacuum Line --> Barb --> Upper Plenum

It's a direct vacuum source without tapping into other potentially less viable and functional vacuum sources.

Also look into something like a BLOX multi port vacuum manifold that you can run things like your Boost, BOV, FPR, MAP Sensor from.

Can you confirm your UTEC firmware version is 2.8d? Can't remember if that was already mentioned earlier in the thread.

konrad

iTrader: (15)

i think when I was trying to use the greaddy TT map the same thing happened, So i ended up using aps550 cc map with my 760cc injectors and it was fine, also the turbonetics maps didnt work, if you want I can send you my 9.5psi map, I am single turbo tho so it might make a difference

mx594

iTrader: (4)

I remember trying to calibrate my UTEC map sensor. I couldn't seem to get it to read correctly on the dashboard when I used the numbers on the calibration card. What I ended up doing was hooking up a little handheld vacuum pump the the map sensor input and also teed it into my boost gauge so I could apply different amounts of vacuum/pressure with the engine off, then I just kept tweaking the two calibration numbers until the map sensor reading matched the boost gauge reading. Basically those two numbers are just the slope and intercept values in a linear equation (y=mx+b) so it's not that hard to find your own calibration numbers.