I know that. The problem is that the car runs shitty with no other codes like I just said 2 other times. He is saying it doesn't but I think that a lot of people who have this issue don't know they have it, and they only think it runs normal when actually a lot of power is missing.

The only way to actually fix it is to install cats but they make less power than test pipes and I don't want that. If I cant run test pipes, I don't want the car.

 

It shouldn't run sh!tty with all the sensors in normal positions, at least mine doesn't. Sounds like you have another issue or a bad tune. Even when I had nonfoulers it didn't run sh!tty it just wasted fuel and was slightly down on power at part throttle.

Trust that I know if it's running right or not; I spent 5 years driving it bone stock before 3 years of tuning it myself from N/A to TT from UTEC to Osiris..

 

+1 This

 

some tuners pull the secondary O2 sensors so they can screw in their dyno's wideband. Andrei, you have a different problem if you car is running poorly.

 

Some even use upper sensor.

 

why dont the tuners just use the factory wideband signal to tune? im pretty sure mine shows up in osiris

 

It could be the bung on the Megan test pipes I have are too long and the sensors are not directly in the stream, they're at least 1". I have short bungs but no TIG welder anymore. The Mig is ugly. Disabling the SES light for some test pipes is kind of asking too much.
No one touched this car since I got it but me. It has an eTune from Z1 Motorsports from logs I ran, hasn't been dyno tuned.

I should have gambled my money and rebuilt my Revup instead of doing the motor swap. That ECM didn't complain. It was compliant.

 

Because OEM sensors not as accurate and tuners also want to have the A/F overlay on the dyno chart. If I were tuning other people's cars I would want to use my own wideband too... u never know the state of customer cars.

 

So you are not running the original motor or ECM?

 

Actually a dynojet wideband is the same exact wideband sensor as the AF sensors that are on our cars. Only the connector and the price is different. Wires have same colors too.

I am using dynojet widebands on my car the output signal and voltage is EXACTLY the same.

This is a dynojet wideband. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i00

This is ours. http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-15667-Ox...9&sr=1-1-spell

I am running a complete 04.5 swap with a motor from the automatic 2006 G35 coupe. I only took out the automatic pilot bushing and put in my knock sensor from my Revup motor but I don't know if it is a different sensor between auto and MT, I didnt care to look.

This are pics from the swap in the 2nd post. https://my350z.com/forum/engine/5537...t-harness.html

 

So i did the sit and rev test whilst monitoring. I don't think i'm seeing what being suggested.

Idle and rev log

 

Mine seems to be running okay and this is the 3rd day. I still don't have any codes for AF or o2 sensors. I am still going to try welding on shorter bungs for the o2s to see if it runs even better. This is the bung on the Megans. It's probably too long since the reason I still don't have o2 codes.

And whoever this guys is he is running the non-foulers like I had and it didn't run good like that at all.

 

You won't during idle and free revving. Has to be at speed and cruising for a certain amount of time with very little throttle movement. Like 45-65mph.

I never saw any issues until I took long trips in the G.

 

But the thing is, as a tuner you want to know you've got accurate data. I'm not going to trust random joe customer's factory wideband signal over my own dynojet WB. Plus, I want the A/F overlayed on the dyno plot which is impossible thru osiris.

 

The other guy was able to reliably repro it that way, not seen him post since disconnecting his rear o2s though.

 

Strange. I really think that each year is different. But the common link is that the rear o2's do affect fuel trims in some way.

 

i guess as long as the rears only input on cruising situations with little throttle input, then im not so worried about it, i will be mostly concerned with wot situations for tuning purposes.

 

His was an '06? right?
Still love to know how his is going since disconnecting them.

I've got other issues right now, i can't get the idle down past 750, usually 650, idle relearn sets it to 650, next restart and it's back to 750 again, shows in the logs.

 

Long cruising conditions, but this was the same as that guy with the 2 year old thread, easiest repro he found was the WOT at rest and release throttle quickly.

The problem would be the tune will be out for a while after cruising/during long term cruising, but i'm still not seeing this on mine well, actually

 

On mine after a reset it would run perfect for about 20 miles of hard driving and then start over-correcting. It was with the 90 degree non-foulers that worked on the Revup.

Right now I can still feel it's not 100% but I haven't yet welded on shorter o2 bungs to see if it improves.

EDIT: It has gone to ****. It's not working. I didn't make any changes.