Haltech tuning help
I'll check out possible vacuum leaks, but I have no idea where to begin. I've had that plenum apart twice now and each time I was careful to put it back together properly with nothing pinched inside
I did change the axis at least on the fuel table because I'm much more used to tuning that way. On the haltech boards people confirmed that it makes no difference as far as the ECU is concerned. I'll check RC's website for the pressure rating.
You also add fuel as air temp goes up on your map.
did you do a compression test before you bought?
No fuel pressure regulator?
so looking at your map, if you are truly idling at -5psi then you are up in the higher rows.
looks like you are modifying the rows in the -20 to -30 psi. That may be your issue.
Look for the blue circle and watch the target output. That will show which cells are currently being operated in.
looks like you are modifying the rows in the -20 to -30 psi. That may be your issue.
Look for the blue circle and watch the target output. That will show which cells are currently being operated in.
I haven't gotten into actually tuning it, but I will be adding fuel and subtracting timing as air temp rises. For now I set most enrichments to 0 to try and minimize variables.
I did not do a compression test. If it comes up to be an issue, then I'm worse off than I thought.
Don't the Zs have the FPR inside the tank as part of the fuel pump assembly? I imagine that it's still stock. I have a receipt for a Walbro 255, but no mention of the FPR. It's still the factory returnless system.
I did not do a compression test. If it comes up to be an issue, then I'm worse off than I thought.
Don't the Zs have the FPR inside the tank as part of the fuel pump assembly? I imagine that it's still stock. I have a receipt for a Walbro 255, but no mention of the FPR. It's still the factory returnless system.
The DIY walbro install threads require drilling out a orifice in the stock fuel bucket to prevent high pressure at idle.
High pressure means lower flow rate of the pump but it also means higher flow rate at the injectors.
Go hop in the car, crank it up and do a screen cap at idle with the RPM, APP, TPS, MAP and Fuel table.
High pressure means lower flow rate of the pump but it also means higher flow rate at the injectors.
Go hop in the car, crank it up and do a screen cap at idle with the RPM, APP, TPS, MAP and Fuel table.
WTF. So I start it up and it settles into a nice 14:1 idle. I didn't do a damn thing! Sounds like I get to track down wiring gremlins, if its actually intermittent.
I did get screenshots, I will post them up in a bit. Ended up under the car checking things over so I'm too dirty to grab the laptop. The exhaust is still smoky, but it looks to be all of the fuel in the piping boiling out. I'm going to get cleaned up and see if it'll make it around the block or at least continue to idle.
I don't get it; I literally didnt touch the car since posting up last night.
I did get screenshots, I will post them up in a bit. Ended up under the car checking things over so I'm too dirty to grab the laptop. The exhaust is still smoky, but it looks to be all of the fuel in the piping boiling out. I'm going to get cleaned up and see if it'll make it around the block or at least continue to idle.
I don't get it; I literally didnt touch the car since posting up last night.
High, mid 40s. Thats why I was poking around under the hood; was looking for a vac leak. Didn't see anything obvious, but the TPS was reading 0%. Maybe I need to recalibrate that. APP is fine, but maybe the TPS isn't.
Yeah. Just recalibrated the TPS/APP. TPS was dead on, APP was 0.05v off at 100%, so just barely off. Just tried to start it up again and it looks like the battery has finally become tired of all this cranking. It's on a charger now, but it may be a little while before it'll fire up again. Let me get those screenshots uploaded for you.
The 40kpa now makes more sense, it is absolute vs relative to atmospheric pressure.
So your vacuum is around -20inhg gauge pressure which is normal.
Idle seems high. Cipher only allows adjustment up to 900 rpm so that is probably not it.
Is your TB modified....like someone drilled a hole in the plate or adjusted the closed position causing a high idle? Did it idle that high with the FCON?
14.1 idle is not that bad, could still lean out some.
So your vacuum is around -20inhg gauge pressure which is normal.
Idle seems high. Cipher only allows adjustment up to 900 rpm so that is probably not it.
Is your TB modified....like someone drilled a hole in the plate or adjusted the closed position causing a high idle? Did it idle that high with the FCON?
14.1 idle is not that bad, could still lean out some.
Last edited by Cux350z; Jun 17, 2012 at 10:14 AM.
Yeah, I forgot to mention that it was absolute instead of relative. Coming off the Megasquirt, I wanted to use the scales I was already comfortable with. The TB appeared to be stock, and the idle would sort of settle down a bit lower briefly before stumbling and raising back up. The Fcon had it idling fairly high as well. Is there a set screw for the fully closed position on these throttles? That may have been adjusted previously. There were no holes drilled in it.
I'll give it another hour or so on the charger and then I'll play with it some more
I'll give it another hour or so on the charger and then I'll play with it some more








