When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
For anyone else curious about the Link G4x + Haltech WB2 combo, it works a treat. For the newbs, there are no instructions so there are a couple of steps that aren't obvious in ECU to make it work.
A couple of things to be aware of:
Hooking the Haltech WB controller to a Haltech ECU will give you out-of-the-box Sensor Status Information ("Sensor cold", "Condensation phase"). This is not natively supported on the Link. There may be a way to display this on the Link, but I haven't investigated yet
You would also need to hook the WB controller to a Haltech ECU if you ever want to update the firmware on the controller. Mine came with the required firmware to talk to the Link so hopefully yours will too
Given a single WB2 controller is nearly half the price of 2 x Link lambda sensors, I consider both points to be 'nice to haves' that aren't worth the additional cost.
Once again, a huge thank you for confirming all of that Tim !
I finally put an order through for all of the parts last week, so hopefully here in a week or two.
I wouldn't have known about this at all, as it's not really widespread info and I find it very perplexing why Link have priced their kit in this way too.
They make great products, no doubt but odd pricing like this.
Lame quality photo but might help:
There's the WB2 kit, a female Deutsch connector to replace a male one on the Haltech kit, plus the Link cable for my particular ECU (5 pin on the board, not 4 pin)
One thing though, is I didn't end up using the adapter with the orange wires (in your pic). There's are many ways to approach the wiring to connect the power/ground and the CAN high/low, but my approach was to replace the DTM connector that comes straight out of the controller. Then your Link adapter will plug straight in there.
Alternatively, if you wanted to keep the WB2 original, you could make a female-female cable to sit in between. Probably smarter but more cost, cabling and bulk.
Remember to double check your pin positions. Thankfully Haltech and Link share (basically) the same colours:
Just to note, anyone else that's following this (no matter what ECU I guess), I had to buy a fused relay to run the lambda WB2 kit, as the wire I originally tapped into from under the dash wasn't giving them enough juice from the battery.
So what would happen is my WB2 kit would show lambda readings on the ECU when the ignition was on but would shut off once the car started.
I was very confused for several days as to what the hell was wrong
On the weekend just gone, I took the 12v wire to the battery for a test and bingo, worked fine.
Tim - sorry for the emails dude, the learning curve on this side of things has been kinda steep
Last edited by RobPhoboS; May 10, 2022 at 03:42 AM.
Just to note, anyone else that's following this (no matter what ECU I guess), I had to buy a fused relay to run the lambda WB2 kit, as the wire I originally tapped into from under the dash wasn't giving them enough juice from the battery.
So what would happen is my WB2 kit would show lambda readings on the ECU when the ignition was on but would shut off once the car started.
I was very confused for several days as to what the hell was wrong
On the weekend just gone, I took the 12v wire to the battery for a test and bingo, worked fine.
Tim - sorry for the emails dude, the learning curve on this side of things has been kinda steep
Sorry that I didn't tell you that information because I knew it.
But what I can tell you is that we used the fuse of the fuel pump for the widebands as the fuel pump will always have electricity so you can log the afr while cranking
Just to note, anyone else that's following this (no matter what ECU I guess), I had to buy a fused relay to run the lambda WB2 kit, as the wire I originally tapped into from under the dash wasn't giving them enough juice from the battery.
So what would happen is my WB2 kit would show lambda readings on the ECU when the ignition was on but would shut off once the car started.
I was very confused for several days as to what the hell was wrong
On the weekend just gone, I took the 12v wire to the battery for a test and bingo, worked fine.
Tim - sorry for the emails dude, the learning curve on this side of things has been kinda steep
Ha, no sweat mate, good to hear it's working now. Hope I've been able to provide some help.
Which wire did you originally splice btw? Haltech claim 1.3A typical and 6A peak, so it's not a huge draw.
No problem itsLeon - I should have posted here to ask, so that's on me
Originally Posted by Timboj
Ha, no sweat mate, good to hear it's working now. Hope I've been able to provide some help.
Which wire did you originally splice btw? Haltech claim 1.3A typical and 6A peak, so it's not a huge draw.
I really hate asking for help at times, as it's a lot a taking but hopefully sharing my little bumps in the road here might help someone else too.
I'm just waiting for some more wire to arrive and then I can hook up the relay and start getting on with things!
Originally I just spliced into the cigarette lighter, almost the same as yours!
So I'm not quite sure why it wasn't happy, I do also have an oil temp gauge/sensor running from that too (but I had disconnected the gauge).
The only other I did notice in one of your photos, is that you have a more powerful battery, so perhaps that's it? I had charged my battery many times over the last few weeks, so I knew it had enough juice in it.
