I wanted to know if it would be safe to go Full Sync at 2K miles on HR eng.

I’ve been going through all of the Braking in! Period" all the way up to 2K miles.

I have first Oil change done 500 miles.

So now I'm ready to get #2 done. I will be running M1 0-w40 oil.


My question is should I hold off on the Sync for right now and wait until 4K miles on Eng. Or just go for it.

Thanks guys

 

personally, i say go for it.

shouldn't hurt anything at all.

now with that being saud, i am no oil junky, so my response is based purely on what i know.

and 2k break in period? i thought it was 1200?

 

yeah, it s 1200 miles. But it's winter time here so I can't really open up on her yet

 

I've only changed my oil with royal purple which is full synthetic.

 

You should really read this thread.

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/258663-vq-oil-analysis-and-info.html

Very good information regarding the performance of different oils on the VQ.

To OP: Theres a lot of debate among different people saying to go with a standard oil until a certain mileage, while others will say to run synthetic as soon as possible. So basically there is no real answer. I've had synthetic in it since 1200 miles, only because that was the earliest I could get an oil change done.

TK

 

yeah, it's gonna end up being your own decision. After reading everything I could, I decided to go thru two dino oil changes. The next one will be all synthetic (around 10k miles).

 

Go for it!

I changed out my factory oil at 1,500 miles and put in some Castrol Syntec 5w-30 with a Mobil 1 oil filter. I changed it again at 5,000 miles with the same stuff. So far, at 6,000 miles, my car's running like a champ.

FYI, my local Nissan dealership changes all their cars' oils with Mobil 1 (fully synthetic). The service advisor told me.

 

yeah, I'm going to Run M1 0-40 with M1 Filter/ :-)

See how she does.

Thanks guys.

Can't wait to open her up when it gets warm.

 

My dealership used dino up until recently. Now they use a blend.

 

I wouldnt suggest it, but overall its your choice.
Im not a synth fan.
My motors are always considered to be freaks and make more power then they should, but after a few times now I say its not just a coincidence

Dont believe the hype in synth. Esp in new motors.
I know too many people that have jumped to synth on new motors and end up with oil burning issues down the line.
Not saying that is deffinately the case as I am not a scientist or engineer, but I have seen enuff results that make me stay away from it.

 

I do synth mobil 1 Extended perfomance every 3k... first oil changes @ 1200 strayght to synth, ten 3k,6k,9k and yesterday 12k... runs good, going to send my oil to analysis on the next one...

 

Why would you run a 40 weight in a new motor, thats asking for faster wear.

 

"An oil’s hot viscosity must fall within certain limits at a specific temperature of 100 deg C in order to be classified as a 30wt oil, or a 40wt oil, and so forth. Since a 30 weight oil must have a hot viscosity between 9.30 and 12.49 cSt, there is a range of viscosities that a 30wt oil may have in order to be classified as a 30wt oil. Some 30wt oils may be a “thin” 30wt with a hot viscosity closer to 9.3 cSt, while some 30wt oils may be a “thick” 30wt with a hot viscosity closer to 12.49 cSt, but any oil with a viscosity in that range will be a 30wt oil. As an example, Royal Purple 5W-30 has a viscosity of 9.7 cSt @ 100 deg C, while Schaeffer’s 5W-30 has a viscosity of 12 cSt @ 100 deg C. Both oils are 30wt oils since their viscosities lie between 9.3 and 12.49 cSt, and are therefore the same weight (sometimes called oil grade), but Schaeffer’s is physically thicker (more viscous) than the Royal Purple. The same principles apply to any grade of oil. Some 40wt oils will be thicker than other 40wt oils when hot, same for 20wt oils, etc... This also means that a 0W oil like 0W-30 can be a thicker oil than a 5W or 10W-30 when hot, despite being a thinner oil when cold. Check the viscosity chart attached in the previous post and you can see how the viscosities of any of the oils tested compare against the maximum and minimum values for each weight."

AND

"Amsoil is an American company that uses nothing but PAO and PAO/Blend base stocks. The "European Formula" is a common designation to 5W-40 or 0W-40 oils that meet certain testing criteria. The business of oils have changed in the last ten years dramatically in that an OEM car manufacturer no longer has to pick from what grades are available, but can now tell oil companies what to make. It used to be just the American Petroleum Institute (API) gave a rating and the car companies used whichever one they wanted. Now, since EPA regs and mpg standards have been raised, the OEM's have a greater say in what oils they want in their car to meet these standards. The result has been almost a dozen new agencies created to test oils to meet certain manufacturer requirements. The "European Formula" oils like Quaker Advanced 5W-40 or M1 0W-40 are designed to meet the requirements set forth by companies like BMW and MB for higher stress, higher revving engines that must posses decent fuel economy standards and have good cold-start properties. These "European Formula" oils tend to be very thin 40wt oils, as compared to standard 40wt oils. As an example, a lot of people consider the M1 0W-40 a "thick" 30wt instead of a true 40wt. Myself included. The reason for creating a 40wt rating in place of just using a 30wt is because a 40wt will have greater film strength than a 30wt for high performance apps, but by making it on the thin side, it helps mpg ratings."

Pulled from the Oil Analysis Thread I linked above.

TK

 

do not do it. Syn oil will put a hole in ur engine.
LOL

 

Changed to AMSOIL 0w-30 right at 1250. Then changed every 3k. Engine runs great. According to the initial oil analysis from the first Synthetic oil change, it looks like the rings have seated fine in my car and my engine is break in well. I will be changing my oil in the next 2-300 miles and sending it in for another oil analysis test. It's really up to you when you want to change to syn. I just changed it as soon as I hit the mileage for Nissan's minimum break in.

-Joe

 

I don't think there is going to be Oil burning problems with new HR Eng.

Nissan has done a very good job with HR.

The reason I wanted to go with M1-0w40 is do to that fact the HR is very high Rev eng. And from what I have seen on the date reports, this Oil works best in the VQ.

Also Nissan is running M1 0-w40 oil right out of the Box on the New GT-R

So that just help me to back up what I already thought out in my head on how good this oil should be.

I will be well over 2K make on Eng, I feel that HR should be ready for some play by now.

 

you think the HR is a really high revver? lol.
far from it IMHO

 

I used full Synthetic with my first oil change @1200 miles. Now I have 2500miles so its not due yet. But, I will stick to full synthetic.

 

It is a high revving motor. Not even the 4 cylinders in Subura's or Mitsubishi's rev to 7,500. What other V6 motor revs to 7500?

I know BMW makes a V8 that revs to 8xxx...but I would consider that a well-engineered motor. Something exotic.

 

Supra's do. Are we only talking V6 or other 6 cyl in general?
I consider this a higher revving motor for a V6, but nothing outrageous.
Anyway, does not matter much. Oils will always be a preference thing. I can tell you I will never put Synth in my cars. I have seen too many oil burning issues in many other makes from swapping to synth either at all or too soon.