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Can't Remove Stock Cats. Help!

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Old Sep 20, 2008 | 07:05 PM
  #21  
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I'm using a 20" extension + a 6" extension no flex joint, I got a solid grip on the bolt. damn thing is no joke, I think my ratchet is going to snap before the bolt breaks. This is one tough puppy
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Old Sep 20, 2008 | 07:35 PM
  #22  
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The drama continues, Me vs. Car:

Me 0 : Car 2

The car has busted one small 3 extension, and 1 Rachet

all 3/8"s drive, I'd use 1/2" but there's this bar next to the bolt that doesn't allow me to use it.
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Old Sep 20, 2008 | 09:53 PM
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i just got mine off a few hours ago. PB blaster penetrating oil and use the least amount of extensions hooked together as possible. i got a buddy to use a pry bar and lay under the car and hold the cat away from the steering shaft so that i could get the socket on all the way. if not then you will stip the head of the bolt. i used a breaker bar and it came off relatively easy. you have to go from the top with the intake tube off though. a tip i got on here
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Old Sep 20, 2008 | 10:27 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 08black350
i just got mine off a few hours ago. PB blaster penetrating oil and use the least amount of extensions hooked together as possible. i got a buddy to use a pry bar and lay under the car and hold the cat away from the steering shaft so that i could get the socket on all the way. if not then you will stip the head of the bolt. i used a breaker bar and it came off relatively easy. you have to go from the top with the intake tube off though. a tip i got on here
I'll buy some PB blaster and give it a shot, I think it may make the difference. The steering shaft caused me to use a 3/8 drive socket instead of 1/2. I'm doing it beneath the intake. I hope I can avoid breaking another rachet lol.
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Old Sep 20, 2008 | 10:36 PM
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Try a breaker bar. i couldn't get enough leverage off using a ratchet. and i didn't want to risk breaking a ratchet. but try the PB blaster and let it soak in for a while. then spray it again right before you try to loosen the bolt. just make sure that that socket is all the way down on the bolt head. i made that mistake my first few tries and rounded the top of the bolt off. luckily i got it all the way on there and tried one more time and it came right now. good luck with it man. post how everything goes.
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Old Sep 20, 2008 | 10:59 PM
  #26  
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just use a torch. This is an easy way. However, be careful, or simply have someone who knows how to use it
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Old Sep 20, 2008 | 11:53 PM
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So none of you guys are using impact guns? Using a breaker/cheater bar won't solve the problem. You need something to hit the bolts to break them loose. Applying direct and constant torque isn't the answer.
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 07:03 AM
  #28  
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I broke a 3/8" drive socket on my first attempt on the drivers side. I then went to the 1/2" drive socket, used a 1/2" swivel, a bunch of 1/2" extensions, 1/2" breaker bar, and then a 4' pipe over the breaker bar (again). One person held the rotating end of the breaker bar steady, and I applied force to the end of the 4' pipe until I heard something break, which turned out to be the (top) bolt, which was a wonderful thing. The bottom two were relatively easy from below, and then it dropped out like a piece if cake. I did the bottom bolts last, because I think it makes the top as easy as it's going to be. I got the passenger side from underneath, with the 1/2" swivel (again). I'm surprised the shop couldn't do it, which makes you wonder about the shop. Good luck!
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 04:16 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Dave B
So none of you guys are using impact guns? Using a breaker/cheater bar won't solve the problem. You need something to hit the bolts to break them loose. Applying direct and constant torque isn't the answer.
I took my car to GT Motorsports. they used an impact gun and it didn't do ****.
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by reldla1996
I broke a 3/8" drive socket on my first attempt on the drivers side. I then went to the 1/2" drive socket, used a 1/2" swivel, a bunch of 1/2" extensions, 1/2" breaker bar, and then a 4' pipe over the breaker bar (again). One person held the rotating end of the breaker bar steady, and I applied force to the end of the 4' pipe until I heard something break, which turned out to be the (top) bolt, which was a wonderful thing. The bottom two were relatively easy from below, and then it dropped out like a piece if cake. I did the bottom bolts last, because I think it makes the top as easy as it's going to be. I got the passenger side from underneath, with the 1/2" swivel (again). I'm surprised the shop couldn't do it, which makes you wonder about the shop. Good luck!
I'm trying to do the pipe thing myself but that bolt is beating my tools to death lol. I just bought the PB blaster, autozone carries it.
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 04:54 PM
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Agreed Impact guns work wonders...mine were easy with the use of an impact gun
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 05:00 PM
  #32  
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yeah i used a 2ft breaker bar.

have patience. drink a beer or two.
take the driver side intake off. get imaginative with extensions and get to that bolt from there.

dont worry its not as bad as it seems
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 05:44 PM
  #33  
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then they are wrong, trust me i have done them together and done the manifold on the HR more than a couple times.
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 10:41 PM
  #34  
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damn it... if freaken stripped! damn I regret taking it to that last shop. it was partially stripped, now it's a done deal.

I'm thinking of trying to drill it out... via drill bit extension? don't know if it will work or not =/
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 10:50 PM
  #35  
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Man i feel so bad for you bro. This is the biggest pain the ***. My freind also tried to remove his stock cats but stripped the bolt. He's keeping his stock cats for now. Best of luck
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 11:13 PM
  #36  
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yeah this really sux. just 1 bolt... all the bolts are fine, but the on top driver's side bolt.

Any suggestions... besides removing the header? Tools? special saws that may be able to reach this bolt? Grinding it down using a drill bit extension?

I'm trying to think some things, but I don't know what will work.

Last edited by infinite; Sep 21, 2008 at 11:37 PM.
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Old Sep 22, 2008 | 01:41 AM
  #37  
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Is it the head of the bolt that is stripped? I bought this kit at sears that was specifically made for stripped bolts. Essentially, it's an "add-on" to your stripped bolt. It has grooves in the middle that dig into the stripped head, and you can fit a wrench over the "add-on"
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Old Sep 22, 2008 | 02:25 AM
  #38  
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Now I'm cared to put my test pipes on when they come next week lol.
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Old Sep 22, 2008 | 04:05 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Allen331
Is it the head of the bolt that is stripped? I bought this kit at sears that was specifically made for stripped bolts. Essentially, it's an "add-on" to your stripped bolt. It has grooves in the middle that dig into the stripped head, and you can fit a wrench over the "add-on"
yes the head stripped, it's rounded out. how much does that kit run?

I'm thinking of grinding the head off with a die grinder. good thing I have an air compressor.
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Old Sep 22, 2008 | 04:07 PM
  #40  
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if the head of the bolt is broken off the cat will slip off right? it's not fully threaded by any chance is it?

anyone who knows?
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