HR Slave Cylinder Seal Broke due to aftermarket Pressure Plate
Yeah it is eliminated entirely.
Yup, I think you can get a twin plate with the removal for $2100ish shipped, maybe it was 2200. Not a GREAT price, but considering the alternatives ($800 JWT with $75 slave and future failures) it could be worth it.
I have a few questions:
1. The failing of the slave cylinder was not because of the added load from the new pressure plate?
2. So does this mean any aftermarket clutch system for the HR will have a higher possibility of the slave cylinder failing? Or is failing of the slave more of a problem when HP is significantly increased?
3. Any other solutions to the problem besides removal of the CSC, adding a spacer to prevent over extension (seems like the spacer didn't work?) and sticking with the stock setup?
4. Does the transmission need to be dropped in order to replace the slave cylinder?
Just trying to do some research before I upgrade down the line (maybe not, now). Seems like some have had so much grief just wanting an upgraded clutch/flywheel
1. The failing of the slave cylinder was not because of the added load from the new pressure plate?
2. So does this mean any aftermarket clutch system for the HR will have a higher possibility of the slave cylinder failing? Or is failing of the slave more of a problem when HP is significantly increased?
3. Any other solutions to the problem besides removal of the CSC, adding a spacer to prevent over extension (seems like the spacer didn't work?) and sticking with the stock setup?
4. Does the transmission need to be dropped in order to replace the slave cylinder?
Just trying to do some research before I upgrade down the line (maybe not, now). Seems like some have had so much grief just wanting an upgraded clutch/flywheel
Last edited by musubi; May 27, 2009 at 02:15 PM.
I think it directly relates to how much you abuse the clutch (slipping the clutch generates a ton of heat). How often the fluid is changed with GOOD fluid (ATE super Blue or Motul).
The pressure plate force I'm sure has a large role as well. You do have to remove the transmission to get to the slave, it actually surrounds the input shaft, think of it as a donut that you inflate, and then the throwout bearing is connected to the donut.
The pressure plate force I'm sure has a large role as well. You do have to remove the transmission to get to the slave, it actually surrounds the input shaft, think of it as a donut that you inflate, and then the throwout bearing is connected to the donut.
Thanks for the input. Damn, so that means if my slave went out (due to an aftermarket clutch system), it would be $400 or so for the trans drop plus the cost of materials and labor for the slave. It seems like the ATS clutch system is a safer option, however how streetable would a twin clutch system be?
I guess my question is: Without too much abuse, is an aftermarket clutch still a feasible option?
I'm curious to know what happened to the OP...
Anyone else with input on my list of questions?
I guess my question is: Without too much abuse, is an aftermarket clutch still a feasible option?
I'm curious to know what happened to the OP...
Anyone else with input on my list of questions?
This was my main concern also. I'd love the peace of mind of having the CSC completely removed with the ATS twin plate, but how feasible would this clutch be on a nearly stock car? It's obviously overkill, but would it be brutal on the driver in a daily driven car? Anyone driven a car with a similar clutch? Even though I've only got 13k miles, I'll start pinching pennies now if this clutch is streetable.
The ATS twins are certainly driveable for everyday. Grabbier than stock? Yes. Lighter than stock? Yes. Able to hold copious amounts of power? Yes. Expensive? Yes. Overkill? Yes. The ATS is the only one that deletes the CSC that I am aware of. I have not used it on an HR yet, but have used them many times on the DE's, as well as other cars (we've been a dealer for a while now).
All comes down to personal preference in terms of weighing the above according to your own needs/wants/future plans/budget. The downside is the cost, the upside is that these clutches will handle essentially anything you throw at them, and they delete the culprit of problems from the source. Given that the CSC is inside the bellhousing, it doesn't take long to figure out that while the ATS has a higher initial cost, it's long term savings is virtually guaranteed
All comes down to personal preference in terms of weighing the above according to your own needs/wants/future plans/budget. The downside is the cost, the upside is that these clutches will handle essentially anything you throw at them, and they delete the culprit of problems from the source. Given that the CSC is inside the bellhousing, it doesn't take long to figure out that while the ATS has a higher initial cost, it's long term savings is virtually guaranteed
Last edited by Z1 Performance; May 28, 2009 at 04:50 AM.
we have them listed on our site, but I'm willing to do a better deal for the first couple, just to help get the word out. Let me know which type you're interested in and we can figure it out from there
All versions are listed on our site:
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ne&prodid=3972
All versions are listed on our site:
http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ne&prodid=3972
I honestly wouldn't mind getting the first one listed if it was a little cheaper. I'd also consider the next one with the integrated flywheel. Not sure if the rest are absolutley necessary for an NA setup. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the first two would be good enough for F/I also (475-500whp max). I'm still doing a little research though, but I definitley like the idea.
1 - ATS Twin Metal Disk Clutch 2007-2008 350Z (VQ35HR) - reuses stock flywheel
2 - ATS Twin Metal Disk Clutch 2007-2008 350Z (VQ35HR) w/Integrated Chromoly Flywheel
1 - ATS Twin Metal Disk Clutch 2007-2008 350Z (VQ35HR) - reuses stock flywheel
2 - ATS Twin Metal Disk Clutch 2007-2008 350Z (VQ35HR) w/Integrated Chromoly Flywheel
Last edited by MDHRZ; May 28, 2009 at 06:02 AM.
I honestly wouldn't mind getting the first one listed if it was a little cheaper. I'd also consider the next one with the integrated flywheel. Not sure if the rest are absolutley necessary for an NA setup. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the first two would be good enough for F/I also (475-500whp max). I'm still doing a little research though, but I definitley like the idea.
1 - ATS Twin Metal Disk Clutch 2007-2008 350Z (VQ35HR) - reuses stock flywheel
2 - ATS Twin Metal Disk Clutch 2007-2008 350Z (VQ35HR) w/Integrated Chromoly Flywheel
1 - ATS Twin Metal Disk Clutch 2007-2008 350Z (VQ35HR) - reuses stock flywheel
2 - ATS Twin Metal Disk Clutch 2007-2008 350Z (VQ35HR) w/Integrated Chromoly Flywheel
absolutely, they would both totally work with FI
Thanks Z1. All this has been buggin me since finding out the CSC gives out so easily. Although expensive, I should be fortunate that there is an option.
Z1, does "A reinforced NISMO slave cylinder is also offered as an option." refer to the ATS kit?
Z1, does "A reinforced NISMO slave cylinder is also offered as an option." refer to the ATS kit?
yes, the slave is something they offer as an upgrade to the one included with the ATS kit - I am honestly not sure of the differences though, but will try to find out
edit - the NISMO one gives a bit more total stroke and a bit less pedal effort (subtle, not dramatic)
edit - the NISMO one gives a bit more total stroke and a bit less pedal effort (subtle, not dramatic)
Last edited by Z1 Performance; May 28, 2009 at 09:13 AM.
Interesting info. Although, it seems hard to find companies that produce pressure plates that don't boost the pressure up much higher. If I could find something closer to stock pressure I'm guessing that would be ideal for the CSC. Seems like replacing the system with stock parts is the only other option, without going to ATS and breaking the CSC. Although, paying for the stock flywheel, clutch and install...I don't know how close in price that would come to the ATS system (plus install).
That is the nature of aftermarket clutches - if you are relying on 1 disk, your primary method of holding more torque is to increase the tenson on the fingers of the pressure plate, which in turn exerts more force on the slave. Sure, you can try playing around with other friction materials, but then you are relying on a material which has different properties than a traditional metal or organic unit. Having used kevlar clutches on tons of my own cars in the past (because at the time, nothing else was offered), you couldn't pay me...literally, to ever use one again.
the multi disk clutches adopt a different approach - by using multiple disks, you are increasing the frictional surface area dramatically, so you can use a lighter pressure plate, and still hold gobs of torque.
ATS came up with this setup because they had numerous customers reporting issues to them with stock clutches. So rather than try to engineer something around a part that is known to be faulty, they took the bull by the horn and simple engineered a setup that does away with the faulty part
the multi disk clutches adopt a different approach - by using multiple disks, you are increasing the frictional surface area dramatically, so you can use a lighter pressure plate, and still hold gobs of torque.
ATS came up with this setup because they had numerous customers reporting issues to them with stock clutches. So rather than try to engineer something around a part that is known to be faulty, they took the bull by the horn and simple engineered a setup that does away with the faulty part
Last edited by Z1 Performance; May 28, 2009 at 09:23 AM.
so looking at this pic:
http://www.z1auto.com/image.asp?img=ATSleverVQ35HR.jpg
it looks like there is an opening in the bell housing for that lever. won't that opening allow water and dirt to get in?
http://www.z1auto.com/image.asp?img=ATSleverVQ35HR.jpg
it looks like there is an opening in the bell housing for that lever. won't that opening allow water and dirt to get in?


