Thanks for the pm man appreciate the info

 

Any updates?

 

As well?, How's the car running?

 

Car is running pretty good but I'm chasing a couple issues...

Possible boost leak, on my dyno sheet I mentioned we saw ~7PSI at the top end. After talking to Mike@GTM he told me that the kit on the HR should be putting out about 11-14PSI. I was busy under the car today using soapy water to try and suss out some leaks. I may have found the source but I ran out of time and didn't make it out for some WOT runs.

I was getting some fluttering from the blow off valve but I believe I found the source (a zip tie was too tight where I bundled it near the PCV tubing) and now the fluttering is gone.

Something else I ran across also was some oil residue where the intake pipes connect to the hump hoses and head down to the intercooler. I can't tell if this is coming out of the hump connectors here or if it was residual from when I had my power steering leak (the sh*t went everywhere when the fitting blew out of the stripped socket). I wiped the pipes/couplers down and need to see if this comes back, it visually looks like engine oil color wise but I also used power steering fluid that is similar in color so I'm watching to see if it comes back.

The last thing I'm tracking on is a slight, annoying high idle. When the car is in park or neutral I typically have an idle of 725-850 RPM when the car is warm and hasn't gone anywhere. If the car has been driven (hard or easy doesn't seem to matter) and then stop and throw the car in park say to shut it off I then sometimes get a surge up to 1K RPM where the car will sit for awhile either till I shut it off or wait for it to come down to ~900RPM. It's random tho and the idle is solid when in gear.

Oh and the idle while in gear does do this weird dip thing where it almost hits the floor and then comes back when the car is at a light or stop. I've read others have this with the GTM tune and it seems to persist even if you have it custom tuned. This doesn't really bother me though as the car is responsive when you give it gas.

On the back burner I'm shopping for a built transmission and will be pushing the car further with the 1.5 package once I get all the bugs out.

 

That can't be right...max boost, as far as I know, for stage 1 is around 8lbs
That's WAAY to high for SC stage1 kit. I think the *1.5* upgrade may take it to 10 or so, but anything above 8 I would think requires at least 93 gas.

 

Yeah, I thought 7-8 PSI was the target with the default pulley shipped with the Stage 1 kit but after hearing it from Mike and re-reading the thread from Sam he does state that the pulley making 8PSI on the VHR is making around 11 PSI on the HR.

I believe the pulley size with the stage 1 is 88MM and I think this is the smallest pulley GTM offers.

The 1.5 kit ships default with a 92MM pulley but I'm not sure what PSI is expected on the HR with this. The power output is expected to be mid to high 400s though.

I'm curious to hear what the other guys who just recently got the stage 1 installed are seeing boost wise.

I should have the 1.5 upgrade (different housing, tubing, etc) in a few weeks and will let you guys know how it goes once I get everything sorted.

 

He should have shipped you correct pulley for stage 1 and it's NOT 11 lbs boost...I can assure you that. There's no way you want 11lbs...unless you're prepared for it big time.

 

I think you are confusing our VHR supercharger kit with the HR supercharger kit. They are two totally different engines with the VHR having a much higher VE than the HR. Since boost is simply a restriction to airflow, the HR will see higher boost for the same power.

Besides, Washington state has 92 octane fuel that is significantly better than the 91 octane gas we have down here in California. He has the correct pulley for his application.

 

Minor update from a FI noob going DIY as much as possible..

The outcome- the idle, response of the car and operation of the automatic transmission has improved. It happened right after I removed the boost gauge from the vac circuit feeding the BOV and when I replaced the spiral cable. My theory here is either the extra tee in the vac source feeding the BOV and gauge was problematic and/or the code the broken spiral cable was throwing (even though it was deleted via osiris) was causing the ECU to do funny things.

I need to schedule a follow up tune to see whats going on under the hood now that the car has been running for awhile and I'm hoping to do that this week or next.

Boost wise I'm now seeing the 11+PSI Mike/Sam mentioned. Proof that a ghetto boost leak tester is a worthy investment/tool to have if you are trying to learn/do as much of your own maintenance and troubleshooting on your own.

My 1.5 upgrade should be coming soon and I'll post up the results once I get the kit, engine mounts, etc all bolted in and re-tuned.

Even though this setup is meager (but still impressive) compared to a lot of other forum members builds it really eats up a lot of time if you don't know what you are doing. I definitely do not regret boosting my car but people thinking about doing this with very little knowledge should heed the warnings of other members about the mental/physical/financial investment and research everything heavily.

 

kloudak47, you are absolutely right about the time and work that can go into a project like this. I recently purchased Meth injection kit for my stage one GTM SC, but I'm still debating one whether to pull the trigger on the 1.5 upgrade. Anyhow, I'm in for the results of your 1.5 build, and thanks for posting your progress.

 

Had the car put back on the dyno and tune touched up slightly. Car put down 356whp.

I'm not sure where 48 HP went but I'm hoping it was related to the heat (it was 61F when I put down 404 and it was 88F when I had this new run done).

We did a 4th gear pull and the transmission was slipping (which we knew) so we did another run in 3rd and that's where the 356 came from.

I just got an email from GTM saying my 1.5 upgrade is on the way. Once I get it bolted in along with a set of test pipes I just ordered (and re-tuned) I'm going to stop messing with the car till I can afford to rip & rebuild the transmission.

Car feels good and runs well on the street but honestly, the dyno number bug has bitten and it's painful to see the number drop.

Mkai, interested to see what the meth/water allows your car to get to. Are you installing the system? What kit did you order, aquamist HFS-4?

 

Sorry to hear about your loss in power. Could it possibly be a boost leak? 88 degree temps shouldn't make that big of a difference. Right now I'm only putting down 371rwhp STD on the dynojet. I was hoping for 400rwhp. I'm dropping my car off at GTM soon to get it checked out and retuned with the HFS3 system.

 

Got it sorted out?

 

I wouldn't say sorted, how about work in progress

In the middle of doing the stg 1.5 upgrade in my garage but right before I tore the car apart I took it in and threw it on the dyno when it was ~70F ambient and the car put down 384whp/302trq.

Cold air is denser than hot air so the variation (to an extent) makes sense but it's entirely possible something else is going on (IE transmission getting worse, mechanical issue somewhere, boost leak, etc).

I should have some results in the next week or two of the 1.5 kit and some data for GTM to look over (they have been extremely helpful and patient with someone who is learning by firehose).

In the mean time I'm putting pennies in the jar for a new transmission.

 

I wouldn't have thought air density changes from varying temp shouldn't have near that much difference showing up in the numbers. (I've never seen that much variation from something so simple) In theory something else has to be going on. Atleast it was making more than last time round.

Hope you get it sorted out, look forward to the numbers with 1.5 kit. Going to go 6MT?