BigBlue's '07 HR
#341
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It's a great hood as it removes plenty of heat, but I had looked around before at some guys on this forum, etc. that had gone with or talked about going with the hood pins/latches. I think that it would be a good idea for safety reasons especially if you like to get up to those higher open road or track speeds.
#342
Thanks! Yes I have noticed more hood movements and flexing of the MCR hood as compared to the all stock setup at high speed.
It's a great hood as it removes plenty of heat, but I had looked around before at some guys on this forum, etc. that had gone with or talked about going with the hood pins/latches. I think that it would be a good idea for safety reasons especially if you like to get up to those higher open road or track speeds.
It's a great hood as it removes plenty of heat, but I had looked around before at some guys on this forum, etc. that had gone with or talked about going with the hood pins/latches. I think that it would be a good idea for safety reasons especially if you like to get up to those higher open road or track speeds.
#343
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Today I got my transmission oil changed; Redline MT-90 full synthetic, plus 1 bottle of Polydyn manual trans. TX7 added with the gear oil.
2 weeks ago I changed the differential lube also; Redline 75W90 full synthetic plus a bottle of Polydyn TX7 manual trans. treatment.
A couple of months ago (300 miles) changed the engine oil; Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W 30, plus 1 qt. Polydyn TX7 engine treatment. * Power steering/brake fluid are fairly new also.
2 weeks ago I changed the differential lube also; Redline 75W90 full synthetic plus a bottle of Polydyn TX7 manual trans. treatment.
A couple of months ago (300 miles) changed the engine oil; Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W 30, plus 1 qt. Polydyn TX7 engine treatment. * Power steering/brake fluid are fairly new also.
Last edited by BigBlue; 06-30-2020 at 10:11 AM.
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#345
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I swapped out my drive belt side 7 rib 2.87" for the 3.33" 7 rib pulley that came with the V-3 SC kit (blue pulley), also replaced the 8 rib blower pulley with a new 2.95" 8 rib one from Vortech. It will slow the rpm's of the blower down and less on the jackshaft. Thanks to Tim (OldMan) for pointing that out; better way to go than the way Stillen had instructed with the 7 rib (2.87) on the drive belt jackshaft side. *I'll be offering the 7 rib 2.87" pulley which can add 2 lbs. psi of boost. I had a new blower belt so good time to get that on.
Last edited by BigBlue; 09-03-2020 at 05:31 PM.
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#346
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Had a good shop fab up a larger dia. blower intake tube (higher air volume). Had these bypass + vacuum hose fittings from Viper in England; hooked 'em up. I'll be doing some UpRev data logging for my tuner and get it all dialed in, but the car runs strong as is.
Glad to have the pulley swap and now this done. The HRs are very tight fitting a larger dia. tube than came with the Stillen kit (dual ports are smaller than DE) and trying to fit 3.5" all of the way from air filter/dual MAFs intake tube section to the blower on an HR is tough due to top of radiator sticking out from the left then bottom corner of head light unit sticking out from right side makes this tough to get any tube larger than 3" dia. to the Vortech blower. Now I understand why Stillen had to go with a reducer coupler from MAF section to blower; just very limited room on the '07, some Dremel action needed. So far I'm very happy with this whole project being done. Some pics:
Glad to have the pulley swap and now this done. The HRs are very tight fitting a larger dia. tube than came with the Stillen kit (dual ports are smaller than DE) and trying to fit 3.5" all of the way from air filter/dual MAFs intake tube section to the blower on an HR is tough due to top of radiator sticking out from the left then bottom corner of head light unit sticking out from right side makes this tough to get any tube larger than 3" dia. to the Vortech blower. Now I understand why Stillen had to go with a reducer coupler from MAF section to blower; just very limited room on the '07, some Dremel action needed. So far I'm very happy with this whole project being done. Some pics:
Last edited by BigBlue; 09-21-2020 at 06:50 AM.
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chewwyy (02-26-2021)
#347
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I installed a new polished aluminum (8"x3" dia.) Mishimoto radiator overflow tank; got rid of the crappy little plastic unit that came with the Stillen sc kit. I think it looks good and also clears out some space in that area! Would recommend this type of "metal" tank over the plastic!
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#348
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St. George Car Club (don't need to live here to join; 1,300+ members) had the usual car meet yesterday 1/2 mile from my house; had a great turn out with exotics and many cool restored cars. Lambo, Lotus, Corvettes, Ferrari, Porsches, Viper, Jaguar and my Z33 haha! Some very clean cars, like the white '55 T-bird and the '66 Mustangs and others:
Viper
1955 T-bird
T-bird engine bay
very clean '66 Mustang
Lotus
Lotus + Lambo
Lambo
Lotus
Viper
1955 T-bird
T-bird engine bay
very clean '66 Mustang
Lotus
Lotus + Lambo
Lambo
Lotus
#349
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New Stuff for the Z!
I recently had some nice things done to my car and once I get it all dialed in with my Tuner the little sucka will rip stronger than ever before. I got the car in to a custom shop where the owner has built several race cars and plenty of street demons; very meticulous and highly skilled. I had the Stillen V3 SC kit on the car (air to water system) and only kept the aluminum upper intake manifold plus the Si trim Vortech blower that had to be re-clocked in order to get the 3" piping to it.
He removed the upper and lower intake manifold and sent it to Extrude Hone in Cali. to be fully "Flow Ported" + Polished; they removed .026" of aluminum throughout the two parts and they did an awesome job; looks smooth as a mirror. Should flow much more intake air. He removed the Stillen heat exchanger and installed a Mishimoto intercooler, plus a Vortech race bypass/bov, Greddy 6 qt. oil pan, Z1 high energy coil packs + Denso iridium one step colder plugs. He had to figure the piping out to be able to custom fabricate all of the piping and custom brackets, etc, then powder coated it all to match the upper intake manifold.
Been doing some uprev data logging for my tuner and we have a way to go, but I can already tell that this new mod project will rock. Of course did new coolant, oil change (Mobil 1 full synthetic), AEM dry flow air filter. *I'd recommend that any of you guys that have the Stillen SC kit on their Z or G to seriously consider doing a similar air to air setup! You can see the fine polish inside of the upper manifold looks like a polished little room. PICS:
He removed the upper and lower intake manifold and sent it to Extrude Hone in Cali. to be fully "Flow Ported" + Polished; they removed .026" of aluminum throughout the two parts and they did an awesome job; looks smooth as a mirror. Should flow much more intake air. He removed the Stillen heat exchanger and installed a Mishimoto intercooler, plus a Vortech race bypass/bov, Greddy 6 qt. oil pan, Z1 high energy coil packs + Denso iridium one step colder plugs. He had to figure the piping out to be able to custom fabricate all of the piping and custom brackets, etc, then powder coated it all to match the upper intake manifold.
Been doing some uprev data logging for my tuner and we have a way to go, but I can already tell that this new mod project will rock. Of course did new coolant, oil change (Mobil 1 full synthetic), AEM dry flow air filter. *I'd recommend that any of you guys that have the Stillen SC kit on their Z or G to seriously consider doing a similar air to air setup! You can see the fine polish inside of the upper manifold looks like a polished little room. PICS:
Last edited by BigBlue; 01-04-2022 at 12:41 PM. Reason: add extra pictures
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#353
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I installed the new darkened headlight assemblies (got Xpel clear bra done on them first); took the car for a spin today and snapped these pics:
*Just happened to receive a new tune sent to me just last night; flashed it on this a.m. and the Z is running like a champ; strong and way quick!
*Just happened to receive a new tune sent to me just last night; flashed it on this a.m. and the Z is running like a champ; strong and way quick!
Last edited by BigBlue; 10-22-2022 at 07:17 PM.
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#354
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New differential setup
I bought a fully built differential kit from Z1 Motorsports and just got the car back after the swap. New setup has taller 3.69 fd ring and pinion gears; up from the 3.9's that I had; more speed per gear now, all new bearings, seals and urethane bushings along with a finned high capacity (3 qt.) rear cover, plus a Quaife LSD differential. This changes my gear ratios and puts 1st gear back into play. I'm digging it just in 1st day of testing! Something I've wanted to do for some time now and glad to have this done.
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#355
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
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And there's Randy making me ashamed that "I'm happy with my car" and not building it out. <Laff>
Nice set up Randy!!
Nice set up Randy!!
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BigBlue (12-02-2022)
#357
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BigBlue (12-02-2022)
#358
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Howdy guys, I found that the factory ground; chassis to enging block on pass. side of engine bay (the flat braided copper had pulled apart somehow and I bought a new copper ring terminal and fixed that then went ahead and disconnected the driver's side factory grounds, sanded to shiny copper just to do it. I was wondering if any of you guys have your own grounding connections going back towards the very rear of the car? I had heard that grounding off of the transmission is a good idea; any suggestions? *Im not interested in a full grounding kit, but thinking about extra grounding on my own for my '07 350z; I've got some 4 AWG size insulated copper cable to use here or there, wherever is most important (I'm getting copper crimp ring terminals). Any pics or advise in regard to what you may consider most important grounding spots? Thanks in advance!
#359
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
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Howdy guys, I found that the factory ground; chassis to enging block on pass. side of engine bay (the flat braided copper had pulled apart somehow and I bought a new copper ring terminal and fixed that then went ahead and disconnected the driver's side factory grounds, sanded to shiny copper just to do it. I was wondering if any of you guys have your own grounding connections going back towards the very rear of the car? I had heard that grounding off of the transmission is a good idea; any suggestions? *Im not interested in a full grounding kit, but thinking about extra grounding on my own for my '07 350z; I've got some 4 AWG size insulated copper cable to use here or there, wherever is most important (I'm getting copper crimp ring terminals). Any pics or advise in regard to what you may consider most important grounding spots? Thanks in advance!
Answer this question: what entertainment item spins at a speed equivalent to the 350Z's internal numerical identity +1/3rd?
Hint: Rolling Stones, Chad and Jeremy, Dave Clark 5, The Beatles were all popular in the heyday of this item.
Welcome back, Randy. Hmmmph, over a year and he never writes. 😆
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BigBlue (01-15-2024)
#360
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You have me stumped Mick I have no idea! I'm still lurking around and I've done some likes and post now and then haha! I'll need to pay more attention to the site. I hope that you are doing well healthwise and in general these days!