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Oil Pump failing?

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Old 01-01-2016, 12:19 PM
  #21  
nizmo_0385
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Originally Posted by Sailors350Z
Was going to go to tomorrow, most are closed today.
So is low oil pressure better than high?
Old 01-02-2016, 03:06 AM
  #22  
cincysilvias14
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Originally Posted by Sailors350Z
Update.
-Brought the car to a 28 year Nissan Vet. He's scratching his head
- His suggestions are PCV valve change , Engine Flush , Pressure relief valve in the oil pump.
- Replaced PCV Valve. No Change . No change in oil PSI
- Got an engine flush and oil change. No change in oil PSI
- For anyone interested. Engine RPM to PSI readings.
- idle 400~rpm 15psi~
- 1k 30 psi
- 1.5k 40 psi
- 2k 55 psi
- 2.5K 65 psi
- 3k 85 psi
- 3.5k 90~ psi
- 4 k 100 psi
- 4.5k 110psi

Manufacturer Spec idle 14 psi 2k rpm 43psi (min. , warm engine)
exactly what mines doing
Old 01-28-2016, 09:32 AM
  #23  
venture210
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...

Was your oil pressure "normal" before and then it spontaneously starting reading higher?

Or was it like this since you bought car
Old 01-28-2016, 10:04 AM
  #24  
Sailors350Z
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Originally Posted by venture210
...

Was your oil pressure "normal" before and then it spontaneously starting reading higher?

Or was it like this since you bought car
Normal to me was cold start 60psi.Normal driving 30 psi red line 90psi
Old 01-28-2016, 11:19 AM
  #25  
terrasmak
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Originally Posted by Sailors350Z
Update. Drove my 3500 mile road trip,observed a few things.

-Cold start up around 110psi - 40-50 outside temp
-Operating temp at 65-85mph 65psi
- Around 2,000 miles in I was getting more engine vibration/noise at idle.
-The main odd part of it was, I could start my drive and I would be at operating temp by the time i got on the highway, accelerate to 65 and lock cruise control . The oil PSI would be at 75~ . Then after 30 minutes or so go down to 65psi~ . Then I would bump it up to 80 and it would climb to 75~ psi again for 10 or so minutes then go down to 65 psi ~ . The only odd part was when id WOT in 6th gear going 80 the PSI would drop down to or below 60 for a brief moment the start building up. Anthing past 4k rpm would be past 90psi which the techs at nissan said dont go past. Modderate acceleration the PSI would needle would "wiggle" up and down in PSI on initial acceleration then smoothly build in PSI.

-Current action , drain oil and take a sample to send to a lab. Take off oil pan and inspect the oil pump pick up for build up and try to visually inspect the galleys. Will keep updated if anyone is interested.

-Nissan quote , $100 for inspection then further action up to me. Oil pump replacement at a shop $1,000+.

-Currently in VA beach if anyone local wants to help trouble shoot with me or give a second opinion in.

-Sorry if to some of you this seems like a non major issue but this is my first car i paid for out of 100% and i baby the thing so if something minor/major goes wrong i toss and turn in my sleep.
Just a quick FYI, the needle showing proper water temp has a range from like 130 to 220 degrees and will have the same needle position. So you are hitting the highway with a warmed up car that is actually still cool. Oil temp is normally 20 degrees cooler than water under normal conditions , then 20 degrees hotter than water when the car is pushed hard after a few laps. Oil also takes longer to come up to temp as the car warms up. How do I know, I have an aftermarket oil temp gauge.
Old 01-28-2016, 11:23 AM
  #26  
dcains
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I already mentioned that about the oil temp, having cars with oil temp gauges. I'm sticking with my opinion that the OP's car is 100% fine.
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Old 01-28-2016, 01:17 PM
  #27  
Sailors350Z
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
Just a quick FYI, the needle showing proper water temp has a range from like 130 to 220 degrees and will have the same needle position. So you are hitting the highway with a warmed up car that is actually still cool. Oil temp is normally 20 degrees cooler than water under normal conditions , then 20 degrees hotter than water when the car is pushed hard after a few laps. Oil also takes longer to come up to temp as the car warms up. How do I know, I have an aftermarket oil temp gauge.
correct my main issues with this whole thing is I was driving 10-12 hours a day for about a week.in flordia it was about 80 degrees outside.car is in storage so I won't have any updates till March maybe sooner. The concer still is between the outside temp being 20-86 degrees the PSI was consistent .I'm going to replace the PRV in March just for my own experience and mental health lol.
Old 01-28-2016, 02:41 PM
  #28  
venture210
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Originally Posted by dcains
I already mentioned that about the oil temp, having cars with oil temp gauges. I'm sticking with my opinion that the OP's car is 100% fine.
+1

OP, your response to my last question tells me that your oil pressure is fine.
Old 01-28-2016, 05:33 PM
  #29  
dcains
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Just a general rule for most engines is 10-15 psi per 1,000 rpm"s. IMO, the Z engines all fall into that range.
Old 03-29-2016, 09:45 PM
  #30  
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Took this video on my road trip home. Was a 9 hour drive and the oil pressure stayed this temp after 30 minutes of driving till the end. While at home dealership head mechanic said something is irregular with the oil pressure and best bet is the regulator valve. When i showed him this video he said it should be a little bit above 30 not 60.

Also SES light is due to Test Pipes . Even checked after codes still read for the cats.

Last edited by bhamham1; 03-29-2016 at 09:47 PM.
Old 03-29-2016, 10:52 PM
  #31  
dcains
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FSM states >43psi at 2,000 rpms, normal temp, 5w30 oil. Just not seeing the problem you guys think you're having.
Old 03-30-2016, 10:25 AM
  #32  
Sailors350Z
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Originally Posted by dcains
FSM states >43psi at 2,000 rpms, normal temp, 5w30 oil. Just not seeing the problem you guys think you're having.
I actually asked about that and he said that the climate and altitude I drive at it should be around that 10 psi per 1000 rpm. By his knowledge reasoning I'm double.
Old 03-30-2016, 11:49 AM
  #33  
dcains
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That's ridiculous. If you're crazy enough to fall for that and allow the "repair", make sure you have it in writing that the job is free when it turns out exactly the same.
Old 03-30-2016, 09:14 PM
  #34  
Sailors350Z
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Dont want to clutter this post, will have update video when i start my work on replacing the PRV . Just need to find the part , if it doesn't change well I got some experince and new found knowledge .

P.S. bhamham1 is my old mobile account, accidentally logged in when submitting the video
Old 04-02-2016, 03:57 PM
  #35  
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New update,talking to a buddy and finding a good import engine shop near me that has cheap VQ35HR engines i decided that if need be might just buy a new engine a build the OEM. So i was cruising around and decided to WOT only watching oil psi. At 4500 rpm it hit 100~ psi and ever so slightly went up when i got to 6500. dcains you might be right with it being fine , still going to get it checked out because ive never seen it past 90 psi.
Old 04-04-2016, 11:42 AM
  #36  
cincysilvias14
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ill peak at about 110-115 at redline
Old 04-04-2016, 12:16 PM
  #37  
iideadeyeii
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How do you know the gauge is actually reading correctly? Reading right from the sender would give accurate results.
Does it have 0psi when the car is off?
Old 04-04-2016, 12:58 PM
  #38  
rcdash
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agree with dcains; lots of worrying over nothing. Even with the # of posts, very unclear what you have done to investigate. Did you try a lower weight oil? Did you try changing your oil filter - maybe the bypass on that is stuck? Did you ever record oil temperature (not coolant temp!) vs oil pressure? How do you know your gauge is accurate per post above? All of this changed suddenly after an oil change, right? Seems like you should be able to figure this out on your own...

I routinely have over 100 psi at start up and as the oil warms it will drop to 25-30 psi at 1000 rpms. I also run a 20W-50 oil as recommended by my engine builder for my bearing clearances. Every car is different.

Last edited by rcdash; 04-04-2016 at 01:06 PM.
Old 04-04-2016, 10:26 PM
  #39  
Sailors350Z
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Originally Posted by iideadeyeii
How do you know the gauge is actually reading correctly? Reading right from the sender would give accurate results.
Does it have 0psi when the car is off?
Pulled the sender off and hooked up a pressure gauge to trouble shoot the gauge. In Cab gauge reads the same, and yes it doesn't indicate and PSI when off.
Old 04-04-2016, 10:36 PM
  #40  
Sailors350Z
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Originally Posted by rcdash
agree with dcains; lots of worrying over nothing. Even with the # of posts, very unclear what you have done to investigate. Did you try a lower weight oil? Did you try changing your oil filter - maybe the bypass on that is stuck? Did you ever record oil temperature (not coolant temp!) vs oil pressure? How do you know your gauge is accurate per post above? All of this changed suddenly after an oil change, right? Seems like you should be able to figure this out on your own...

I routinely have over 100 psi at start up and as the oil warms it will drop to 25-30 psi at 1000 rpms. I also run a 20W-50 oil as recommended by my engine builder for my bearing clearances. Every car is different.
-This whole thing started when i put 10w-30 in by recommendation from a fellow Z owner. That whens i noticed higher than normal PSI. Next day i put 5w-30 instead and same PSI readings. 10w-30 and 5w-30 were same readings that was my belief towards PRV being stuck. Ive done 2 oil changes, and an engine flush so far. Nothing changed. Havent had a chance to record oil temp vs PSI.

-I found a really nice shop near by who is going to check it out for me tomorrow if its good then getting a tune if not then repair .


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