Zaksle75

Hi guys, new here, have other posts on different things.

Just wondering the oil, been scanning through so many pages and everything.

So here's my situation, I live in Arizona, the car will NEVER be leaving Phoenix area or the state in General, right now for the next few months we get 100 degree weather and as low as 60 maybe 50 if were lucky at night and it just goes right back up.

Everything I'm seeing is saying 0w30 0w40 10w30 5w30 5w40, and a huge one is on German Castrol, to my knowledge doesn't exist anymore since these threads are all back in 2008 2009

So now days, what would be best?
What I am currently conisdering is 5w30 under these brands ; Amsoil, Motul 8100, Mobil 1, but MOSTLY considering Castrol Edge.

Note; Just called a Nissan dealership and they said 0w20.

I don't understand these numbers, the car is gonna be a DD I baby it for the most part but I do get on it also if you know what I mean so I'd say 75% babying 25% badass outa hell.

Anyways what do you guys think? I also saw the analysis, but yeah.
Right now I'm set on trying Castrol Edge 5w30 but my car is always gonna be in the heat.

Thanks guys!

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Stop sweating about this- even in 100 degree plus weather, 5W-30 oil will protect your VQ. Even something like Mobil 1 0-40W, which pours like a 30W oil, will provide excellent protection in a well-tuned engine.

Zaksle75

So just stick to the 5w30?

What brand would most people suggest out've the brands I've picked, heard Royal Purple was bad but did enough research to come down to those 4

dcains

iTrader: (15)

As soon as my '08 warranty expired I switched from the M1 5w30 to 0w40. I'm in Florida, so it's hot here, too, and the 0w40 keeps the pressure a bit higher, and I'm more comfortable with that. Also, you can use the slightly larger M1-110 oil filter in place of the original size.

If the dealer said 0w20. IMO they're trying to sell you a new engine in the future. Bad idea all around for your climate.

HRMoneyPit

Bad idea all around. The car wants 5-20 why would you go so thin with 0-20 in a hot area


I run 5-40 in my car cause the 5 I feel is good for start ups and the 40 is a little thicker and that's how I run all my cars. No real proof but I race on this and we both live in hot areas


Look up Castrol edge reviews, I've grown up know Castrol until I looked up reviews on Bob the oil guy. One of the worst synthetic oils out


In my car I personally run 5-40 Rotella Synthetic Diesel oil because in my head they run really hot compared to gas engines. And Shell Rotella is know to keep all its properties when in a hot diesel engines. I have read it's bad for Cats.....but I don't have those

dcains

iTrader: (15)

The main advantage to Rotella T in a gas engine is the higher ZDDP (zinc and phosphorus) content than most oils, which is good for flat tappet engines and those with non-hardened valve seats. I think the only other readily-available synth with a higher ZDDP level is the M1 15w50, which I use in my old Alfa's and BMW's, but not in the Z. Newer engine have hardened tappets and valve seats which don't need the high ZDDP, though, and it can be bad for cats.

MicVelo

Why is this even a question??

Nissan recommends 5w-30. Don't try to out think Nissan engineering.... at least not on something basic as recommended oil.

Arizona gets hot and 30 high weight is recommend viscosity for operating in those temperatures (as 5 is OK for Minnesota winters).

My shop (Z specialists) use 0-40 Mobil 1 in everything unless a customer demands elsewise. Here in California at least, oil will NEVER thin to 0, never thicken to 40 so it's a safe op range. For your area though, stick with mfgr recommendation.

Zaksle75

so many oil options like mobil 1 0w40 and edge 5w30 and amsoil 5w30 is a pain guys too many threads on the matter

HRMoneyPit

Oh and also Rotella is mad cheap

MicVelo

That's true and if there's 25,000 people on this forum, there are 25,000 different opinions or reasons for using particular oils; with minor degrees of difference.

"My dad only ran Valvoline and he never had a problem with his Hudson Horny"

"I got an oil analysis and it revealed that _________________..."

"It was on sale at Pep Boys."

"Had this CAN of Castrol GTX 20w-50 left over from my Chevy pick-em-up."

Only one right answer above. Truth of the matter is that as long as you keep fresh, clean, correct weight, brand name oil IN the engine at all times, there are going to be little oil related problems with any of the ones you mentioned. Choose one and move on to grinding on truly analysis-paralysis issues.

Like "what am I having for dinner?" Laff.....


But seriously, unless you are running a specific set up like a twin turbo with pressurizing pre-oiler and/or a dry sump that NEEDS a specific weight and type, I think you're over analyzing this. In 40-some years of high performance and racing engines, I've yet to see a failure due to mis-use of a brand of oil. Starvation and mechanical failure, yes, but brands, nyet.

Bonfire

I'm pretty sure "German Castrol" is still available. It's the 0w-30 European car formula that says "made in belgium" on the back. I've been running it for the past year since I bought my Z. 130k mile HR. Valvetrain is super quiet, nice stable oil pressure. Works for me.

Zaksle75

So wanna give me a answer with facts cause lots of threads are just nothing but this oil that oil and everyone freaks out mostly bout winter and I dont have to, its always 90+ and im sure the car bakes in the sun lol


Also 4k rpm is like 80 pressure or something or just normal cruising hits almost 90 dunno if normal, when idle in park its like 30


But yeah I was reading 10w30 or 10w40 somewhere, and the way i drive also gonna be hot, its been hot every day and i can feel the warmth near my feet too. Really just wanna be safe on oil, likely getting Amsoil

HRMoneyPit

If you want facts your on the wrong forum


Go join Bob the oil guy