I will be replacing the gaskets soon becasue my pressure at idle is close to 12psi now (5w40). Looks ok at 2000 rpm (43psi) and it was ok with 10w60 at idle (15 psi) but I don't want to wait until something bad happens. I will probably be installing new cams too at the same time so I don't have to take it all apart again.

What else do I need to check and potentially replace while I'm at it? Timing chain, tensioner, slides, pullies, seals, O-rings ... ?

PS. Drive belt and all fuids have already been changed.

 

This is more of a note for other people experiencing this problem. It's good that you are replacing the gaskets but pressure should be tested with 5W-30. You have increased pressure with a heavier oil but you still lack the flow needed due to the bypass created by the gaskets. i.e your 15 psi with 10W-60 is unlikely to be creating the flow through the bearings and other surfaces that nissan wants at 15 psi with a 5W-30.

 

what i did :
1x OEM Water Pump (VQ35DE/HR)
- Engine: VQ35HR $68.00
1x OEM VQ HR/VHR Main Timing Chain $96.54
1x OEM VQ Coolant Pipe O-Ring $2.03
1x OEM VQ Long Timing Chain Guide $36.00
1x OEM VQ Main (Lower) Timing Chain Tensioner $62.00
1x OEM VQ HR/VHR RH Upper Timing Chain Tensioner $62.00
1x OEM VQ HR/VHR LH Upper Timing Chain Tensioner $62.00
1x OEM VQ Top Timing Chain Guide $16.00
1x OEM VTC Cover Gasket - VQ35HR
- Side: Both
- Include: Cam Gear Seal Set $49.62
1x OEM Nissan Oil Gallery Gasket
- Side: Both $32.88
1x OEM VQ Front Crank Seal $7.98
1x OEM VQ35HR Valve Cover Gasket
- Side: Both $19.96
Total
1x 350z/G35 Thermostat and Housing
- Engine Type: VQ35HR $20.46
1x OEM VQ Thermostat Gasket $4.77
2x OEM Dipstick Guide O-Ring $0.70
1x OEM VQ Coolant Pipe O-Ring $2.03
Oil + Filter and new radiator hoses & coolant as well.

dont forget the two small orings behind the timing cover as well.

both cam chains on my enginer looked brand new with no stretch, So i skipped those.

 

Wow, that's a long list! It looks like you pretty much replaced everything there except for the cam chains. Which of those things are critical and the most important to inspect and replace if needed?
I can get the cheaper seals and orings, that's no problem but is it really necessary to replace the waterpump, thermostat, all tensioners and guides or does it depend on their current state - is it actually possible to verify it?

 

i could be mistaken- but the reason that xrabbix replaced all of those items is that the amount of labor/time to get to any one of those items- all requires the same amount of work -so why go thru all that just to replace 1 item- then 3 months or sooner down the line- have to go thru all of that to replace another- and so on.... when all of those items are relatively cheap compared to the time/cost of opening up everything each time. and since all of those more costly things (relatively costly) like the water pump, tensioners, chains, etc- are all going to be pretty well used at high milage- why not just play it safe and replace while the engine is opened up?

(im open to correction-helpful lessons if i am mistaken on the reasoning....)

 

Well, that's the very reason why I started this topic and thanks very much for such a comprehensive list!
I don't know if replacing all this stuff will be necessary until I open it up but at least now I know how much all these parts cost.

I was just wondering if any of these parts are a must to replace with this mileage and if others can be done optionally? I guess the water pump and the main chain are worth replacing no matter what so I will buy them in advance.

 

I'm on M1 0W40 pours pretty thin should I consider this oil safe when judging oil psi on the gauge?

 

Dude, there are tens of threads on this forum about oil and pressure and this is not one of them.

 

If the engine has been well cared for, regular oil and coolant changes, you might not need to do anything else other than o-rings and removed gaskets. The timing chain should last the life of the engine (~200K) and considering the location of the water pump I would think it should also be for the life.

I feel like water pump tstat and coolant hoses are more likely to need replacement because coolant is less likely to have been cared for than oil.

Xrabbixs list looks pretty complete for any wear components while you are in there. Only thing I could think to add is to check serpentine idler pulleys if you haven't checked them recently.

 

Awesome, thanks. Yeah, I would think that too, it doesn't look like that crappy timing gear on the Mazdaspeed6'es.

 

Good info! You contribute to nothing here besides your very shitty nickname.