johnx818

iTrader: (2)

My car was a 2003 base. I was lucky enough to find a 2004 base ECU off of eBay. I took the *new* ECU to the dealer and asked them to swap the ECU and reprogram my keys otherwise it wouldn't start. I only ended up paying to get the keys reprogrammed since I had the ECU unmounted and that minimized the work involved in swapping it.

PDose

Finally heard back, I fried the main chip on my ecu. It is unfixable, because nissan apparently doesn't mass produce that chip for wholesale. So I need a new ecu. Anybody know of a company like Hal tech that makes a programmable ecu for the 2007 model. I can't seem to find one..

Emvy

Similar problem here, mechanic cleaned my throttle bodies and afterwards i had high rough fluctuating idle 1-2k, took it to dealership they told me throttle bodies were broken from butterfly valve movement and had to be replaced, replaced them and got these error codes (P1078, P0102, P0113) and still have the same problem still. Starting to wonder if circuits got shorted or ecu problems?

johnx818

iTrader: (2)

Pretty likely that it is the same problem, the ECU. Shouldn't your mechanic take care of this, though?

Emvy

Nah it was some bull **** the guy was trying to deny that it was his fault.

Xrabbix

What kind of shady *** shop are you taking your car to where if they damage something they won't attempt to make it right??

Print out the into on the butterfly valve damage and take that **** in and demand he fix it.

Emvy

Update: error codes P0102, P0113 were from me leaving a maf sensor unplugged after i put new throttle bodies in (lol). and yeah, he refunded me for that service but at the time I had just gotten the car and didn't have a place to stay and couldnt even stay there (florida) at the time, i also didn't know i had a legitimate problem until i brought it to the dealership (atlanta). He told me "oh yeah, check engine light should be on because it needs an idle relearn" which I assumed to be legit which I attempted later multiple times on multiple occasions but obviously did nothing. Dealership told me both throttle bodies had been broken from cleaning (wrong), I scanned code when I finally got home and got P1078 (camshaft sensor). They didn't pick that up at the dealership. Awaiting arrival of the sensor and after I replace it I will post if it fixes the problem (doubt it). What I suspect is possibly the mechanic shorted a circuit or something in the ecu while working on it somehow and now the ecu is just fried? Something else that makes me suspect this is I disconnected battery and pumped gas pedal a few times to try to reset the ecu, reconnected it and my oil pressure gauge was suddenly broken (stuck at max oil pressure). Perhaps a wiring/electrical problem (caused by the mechanic somehow, because i didn't have this problem until after he worked on it).

TL;DR: Idle fluctuating problem after throttle body cleaning, dealership quoted me both throttle bodies need to be replaced, replaced throttle bodies still had same problem, CEL code = P1078 (camshaft sensor) still on and will replace this and report back if there's a change.

PDose

Took me awhile to get the ecu in the mail. It did fix my problem with the idle surging issue. Sounds like you have the same problem. I was told something similar and replaced my throttle bodies, but I don't know if they really were damaged. The issue I had was if the butterfly valve is moved it can short put the Ecu's board. If you are having a problem diagnosing it I can give you the number for a shop in Colorado. You pull your ecu and send it to them, they can diagnose it and fix it if possible. Mine wasn't fixable so I had to get a new ecu.

Emvy

Nice, thanks for the info, yeah I fear I have the same problem, how much was the new ecu? Do you need a key reprogramming after installing the new one?

PDose

The M3 ecu is hard to find, practically impossible so I ended up picking a new one up for 750. Do your research don't pay over a grand, there are a lot of nissan dealerships wholesaling parts online. Yes you do need to reprogram both keys. If your in the nova area I got a guy for that as well, only ran 160.

Emvy

Thanks, appreciate the help. Thinking about just doing a swap to the haltech pro plugin since I most likely have to do the ecu now anyway seems about twice what it would be to get the stock ecu.

PDose

I would of done the haltech, but they don't make it for the hr. I have more mods to do, woulda of been easier instead of retuning my car. Update on mine the ses light turned on today. Plugged it into my obdII reader and got the codes P020 and p030. I only drove the car from shops to home over the past month. It looks like that was enough to either blow a o2 sensor or my cats. So if you have a second car, I recommend not driving the z. I'm getting my mechanic to check it out in the morning. Will update on how it goes.

PDose

Correction it's p0420 and p0430, apparently it's cat codes. My mechanic recommended running cat cleaner through it, and see if the light comes back.

Emvy

Alright, yeah still waiting on my camshaft sensor to come in and see if I can clear my code, I wonder if there's any circuit/wiring issues?

Emvy

Some developments on my end; went to replace the camshaft sensor today (bought the wrong one i bought a straight one i needed the bent one), anyway looked in there and the wire connector was disconnected and the thing that snaps in to secure it is broken. I plugged it back in however it does not click in to place. Started the car up and it seemed as if the problem was fixed, when it started idle was high but then slowly started to drop got down to 1100 then surging began again. Tried ecu reset, relearns, etc. nothing worked. Got CEL P0507. Reset ecu and cleared code, it didn't come back. Still have same idle surging problem. Checked every connection I could in the engine bay they're all connected. I guess I'm going to try a multimeter or something to test the sensor or see if it's wiring? May buy a replacement wire/connector and solder it on and replace the sensor as well.

Emvy

Update: was doing some random trouble shooting today, unplugged accelerator position sensor connector plug, idle went down to normal (~800) and stayed there, did an ecu reset with it unplugged, did one with it plugged in, but after plugging it back in it still would go right back to surging. So perhaps I need a new accelerator position sensor? Going to order one and throw it in and see what happens. Also, oil pressure sensor randomly started working again ( this was before I touched the acelerator position sensor).

BipJip

I fixed the dreaded 1k rpm and surging idle 1500-2k, first don't move the throttle plate at all. If you do it damages the encoder inside ( this is the surge problem). I did this and had to buy new throttle bodies. If you don't have the surge and idle is at 1k with a p0507 code un plug the front two injectors. passenger side was ok to get off with long needles nose pliers. But The drivers side is a bit more tricky. I moved the pcv hoses so I could see the plug and used a long screwdriver from the side of the plenum and one from the front, push the release tab with one screwdriver and use the second one to slide the connector up. Once you do this the car will run a bit shitty around 600 rpm. Use NDS III LITE APP relearn idle once it says complete. Turn off the car plug the two injectors back in and start back up with a 700 rpm every time.

Emvy

Hmm, interesting. So essentially you are relearning the ecu with no injector data which should reset the injector data?

BipJip

It's not the injector data. It's being able to reset the rpm scale for idle. If you can't drop the idle below 700 rpm the computer dosent know how to achieve that idle. So by removing 2 injectors I put a heavy load on the engine which causes a low idle. Around 500 rpm. So when I relearned the idle control it started the scale at 500 rpm instead of 1000 rpm.

Emvy

Ah, that makes sense, i'll get a bluetooth obd adapter and give that a try.