GwitUhZ

Hey everyone! Been scoping this site out for a while checking in to see what crazy things people are doing to their z or help problem solving.

My transmission wont go into any gear on my 2007 HR and after checking the internet I decided to get a new one and then later on try and figure out whats wrong with the old one.
My friend (also has a z) sent me a ad on CL for a CD0 #2, we thought everything would fit fine because its a CD009. We thought the CD009 was compatible with all the VQ35HR engines but upon installing the new trans a couple bolts wouldn't line up and didn't look like the starter would be able to fit.

I have my old transmission still, a CD5 #1, which is a CD009 too I guess. I'm confused because I saw everywhere that CD009 is only #2 and and other CD00 is #1.

I'm guessing there's no kit I can buy to make the transmission fit?
If I can't make it fit, I also read that a lot of the CD00 parts are interchangeable with the housings. Any advice on that?

Kinda feels like I'll have to save up for another CD009 trans, except one that'll bolt on easy this time lol.
I have pictures I could post if you want.
Thank you all for reading!

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

Does it have a internal or external slave cylinder? HR's need the internal slave, also did you align the shifter?

GwitUhZ

The new transmission I bought for my car, CD0 #2, has a external slave, the ball and pivot throw out bearing. Yes when we tried putting the trans into the car we made sure everything was straight. The transmission gears slid right in but there was about 1.5" of space because the starter wasn't going to fit and bolts on the trans housing weren't lining up

Any chance of swapping the trans case with my old CD5 #1 I pulled from it? Not sure how interchangeable these are.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

You have the wrong tranny. Re-casing the gearbox means you'll still need to repair your old tranny, which is not an easy DIY.

GwitUhZ

Damn, welp that's what I had a feeling of. I pretty much just need to sell the wrong trans I bought and buy a correct one? I was hoping so bad there was some type of conversion kit.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Sorry to say, hoping and wishing aren't going to help. Most people don't realize the HR has the starter on the opposite side of the engine than a DE.

GwitUhZ

That's very true. Well I'm looking for a HR CD009 today and hopefully I can find one and get her up and running again. Will keep updated! Thank you all for your help!

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

One more suggestion: if you have your old gearbox separated and out, call around to a local tranny shop and find out how much it'll cost to get an initial estimate for repair. Since you're not sure what happened in the first place, this might be a viable option if the assessment costs are not too high.

MicVelo

Before you go out and buy another transmission, check the actuation assembly - clutch slave and master - as this is a very common problem on HR transmissions with the internal slave set-up (AKA Concentric Slave Cylinder or "CSC").

DO NOT, REPEAT, DO NOT USE AN OEM SLAVE TO REPLACE IT; AS IT WILL FAIL AGAIN.

Suggest either of these as the replacement:

http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSp...SC-zsp2006.htm
(This unit is a tried and true CSC REPLACEMENT for HR)

And this is the newer set-up (but both work great) that ELIMINATES the internal slave in favor of an "old style" (but NOT THE SAME AS OE) external unit:
http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSp...e-ZSP-CMAK.htm

Basic info provided would say that because it won't go into ANY gear, it's more likely that the problem is NOT the transmission. (It could still be the tranny itself but even odds says it's the clutch actuation assembly.... known issue.)

Also, you'll want to check the shifter alignment on it once re-installed.

GwitUhZ

I bought a new clutch master cylinder and installed it but still no gears. When I bought a OEM clutch kit it came with a new slave cylinder, this was before the trans went out.
About 1 month and a half later the trans would be hard to find reverse, and sometimes grind before going into 6th then I'd have to move it back to 5th then 6th again. A couple days later reverse went out completely, 2 days later I was on the freeway going from 5th to 6th and it grinded so I put it in 5th and when I tried to move it in 6th it was stuck in 5th. While keeping the clutch in I had to pull two different times because it getting stuck and when it finally went into neutral it wasn't going into any gears after that. All of the gears just feel blocked off.

MicVelo

When you had difficulty going into gears, does it just NOT go in or does it grind?

Is the system properly bled?

How many miles on the trans?

I dunno, still sounds like a clutch and/or shifter related ailment to me. I would still try the easy stuff first but if you want to go with the tranny-broken diagnosis, well, I hope that when you get it all back together, the problem DOESN'T turn out to be a misaligned shifter gate or air in the system and you still can't shift it.

GwitUhZ

At first going into gears it would grind and not let the shifter go in, next reverse completely went missing and 6th followed 2 days after. I can oush the shift **** to the right, but I can't bring it down to go into 6th. It feels like something is blocking it.

The system should be bled correctly, the clutch pedal feels real firm after installing a new master cylinder.

I had two friends do the work. When I took dropped the trans this time I noticed the shifter plate was flipped the wrong way. Pretty surprised I was able to hit the gears. Learned my lesson about letting certain people do work.

On the trans that went out, the sifter doesn't even slide forward or backward when the trans is dropped. I'm thinking a gear just got stuck some how?

The trans only had about 13X,XXX miles on it.

I just picked up another transmission tonight. It was the same as the original, a CD5 #1, supposedly with ONLY 48k miles lol. But I know that's less than likely, I just really need to get the car running since it's my DD.

Will keep updating.

MicVelo

https://www.google.com/search?q=shif...nt=firefox-b-1

Bak3rme

iTrader: (1)

since we are on the topic of transmission repair.
What are the pros/cons of having the transmission repaired/rebuilt instead of replacing it with a lower milage one?

with an engine, you can pretty much bring it almost back to day 1 right? with a tranny same thing?

Rybear458

Great question. I have been wondering the same thing. I am also having transmission issues, and I have been trying to decide between buying a new one or getting this one repaired (if possible). I can provide details of my problem if anyone wants, but I do not want to hijack a thread.

Also, is there a list out there that shows which manual transmissions fit which years? I have looked on this forum and haven't found anything like this yet, and I can't always trust sellers to know what they are talking about.

GwitUhZ

Feel free to hijack lol.I hope your questions can get answered.

So I installed the new transmission yesterday and everything went well!!
Upon buying new trans fluid I had caught something. When the clutch was changed I went and bought new trans fluid, little did i know that I grabbed 75w90 GL-5. After doing research I read somewhere that GL-5 is not god for our transmissions and that it can cause early wear and tear on synchros. I have a feeling thats where things went wrong!

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Swear that I've responded to 10-12 threads warning about the difference between GL-4 and GL-5 lubricants! GL-5 uses pressure sensitive compounds to assist with the enormous friction generated by rear end gears and differentials. But put them in a gearbox and those same compounds will eat away soft metals like the brass parts in a gearbox. Hope other new Z drivers learn from your mistake.

GwitUhZ

Yeah that was a very bad novice mistake. I should have read more thoroughly rather than rushing and buying the wrong one.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Probably not many responses b/c no one has used Lucas for a tranny lubricant in the Z33. I use Redline MT85 in both my street and race Z, because it's a GL-4 rated synthetic with enough friction engineered in to allow the syncros to function properly.

GwitUhZ

Is it this stuff?