Woow, those tires fit those rims really good, is that a 265 front and 295 or 305 rear?

 

255 and 295 PS2's

Next up I'm going to try 305 PS2's, but I'll let someone else do it first to tell me if it's worth it

 

failsafe- with the 255 F and 295 R, do you rub? Will this throw off the VDC?

Take care.

 

Wired what size would you go on the rear on a non-lowered OEM GT/track '06 ray 19x10.5 rear and on the 18x9.5 front to have the most rubber on the road? 30 offset I believe. No suspension mods.

 

It will rub bad if you don't cut or roll your fenders, I'm sorry to say. At least with my offset it did.

 

<grin> Then what would you suggest, failsafe, without having to cut or roll, that would put the most tire on the road? Guess I'm looking for a definite answer. You can see in my last post on this thread, 18x9.5 front, 19x10.5 rear.

Thanks again for the replies.

 

+19 offset front, +17 offset rear - Volk SF-Winning

 

^^....do your SFW offsets work with a bbk?

 

yup as long as you get the offest for high pad..

 

Selski12 -- AWESOME wheels, def. my favorite wheels on a Z. How much did those cost you?

 

Is that what a crack house looks like? I've never seen one before...

 

Kinda depends on brand. BFG has a slightly wider tread at 285 compared to falken at 285 for example.

Even if you're not lowered, if you go too wide you could still rub in a bumpy part of the road or in extreme cornering.

Also if you want more rubber on the road, you need to run less camber. Less camber means more likely to rub. Usually you don't want to run zero camber just FYI...

If you're not willing to cut your fenders, 275/35/19 rear is your best bet for 10.5 without rubbing. It's not guaranteed, but you can always adjust the camber slightly if you do rub. If you go with BFG, 275 should be ok. If you go with Falken, 285 might be better. Yes, there are other brands. These are just two examples.

285/35/19 or 295 works too, but more likely to rub.

I would generally say if you have 10.5 rear, just be prepared to roll/cut fenders. It will keep your mind at ease.

 

then what if you do a 9.0 or 9.5 in front what size?

 

9.0 - 245
9.5 - 255

typically.

 

my TE Progressives...19*9.5 F, 19*10.5 R

 

Here's some better pics illustrating where the wheels and tires sit in relation to the fenders. Sorry, the pics were taken on Razr V3C camera phone. I didn't have my digital cam with me today and it's out of battery in any case.

(Note the silvered turn signal bulbs courtesy of Evostyle. Love the look.)


Rear Fender:



Top view of rear fender:



Some other shots:





Here are the stoptech stage 2 rotors. Don't mind my ugly brake calipers, I plan to fix them someday when I have time. Some idiot painted them the wrong way without telling me and they're all fuct up now.

 

285/30 in the rear, 245/35 in the front. I thought I would need to roll my fender lips, but so far I haven't experienced a problem. I'm lowered slightly on the Nismo S-Tune suspension. I've driven over some swoopy stuff on the road which really compresses the suspension and still no rubbing. But I am being careful just in case.

On the next set of tires I may go up to 255's in the front. The 245's, though one notch above the minimum for 9.5" width wheels, seem a bit stretched. But man do they stick!


Cheers,
-Smoky

 

I'm a little out of the loop on rolling/cutting a fender, someone enlighten me as to what is done and who could do it if you were looking around.

I'm curious, looks like 285's can fit, but it's touch and go.

 

http://www.google.com/search?num=100...fender+rolling

Most body shops can do it. But stick with a reputable place, as a poor job can really mess up your paint. The main thing is that they don't just use the roller, but also the heat the work area as they roll (to prevent paint damage).

 

fear my MS PAINT skillz.

Here is what people are talking about. That flap of metal is perpendicular to your wheel in the rear. Front is rolled from the factory.

If you get the rear rolled, it will look like the front.

If you get the rear cut, you would just be cutting that useless piece of metal off.

Cutting does not require heating up the fender. But, obviously it must be done slowly and carefully. If you cut too far there are some welds you might F--- up.

Rolling has the possibility to crack the paint if it's not done very slowly and with heat. Any good wheel shop should be able to do these things. If you have to explain it to them, take it somewhere else. You should be able to walk in and say, I want you to "roll my rear fenders / cut my rear fenders" and they should do it easily, without any questions asked. Then say you want to watch them do it. If they get the roller out without a heat gun, ask them WTF they're doing. If they start cutting, keep an eye out for any mess-ups and make sure they seal the bare metal with some kind of paint.