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Originally posted this in the wrong thread. Bought some rims. Eying some tires. Pretty excited about it. Lol
Ordered the concept 1 csl 5.5 Matte black with gloss black lip. 19×9 et15 and 19×10.5 et20.
Going on my silverstone 35th. Probably gonna go with some red extended lug nuts as well. Goes with my color scheme.
I like the nitto neogen tires for a couple reasons. I read a good writer up on them by dkmura who lives in Colorado and drives similar winters to me. The price is good as well.
At this point my intention is to go 245/35 and 275/35. Then I'm gonna try to drop the car just a little. Trying to avoid excessive camber and rolled fenders. Any relevant info or pics would be appreciated. Rims are on the way but tires will be a few weeks out most likely.
At this point my intention is to go 245/35 and 275/35. Then I'm gonna try to drop the car just a little. Trying to avoid excessive camber and rolled fenders. Any relevant info or pics would be appreciated. Rims are on the way but tires will be a few weeks out most likely.
Good tire size choice - pretty much the "standard" upgrade for Zs on 19s. You could easily go 255 in front if you want with no fender mods. (I run both 245 and 255, neither give me any problems).
Generally speaking, you can lower your car (static, on springs, not true type coilovers that sacrifice the rear spring bucket....that begs for alignment correction) about 20-25mm with little/modest variation nor need for alignment (camber/toe adjusters) but it will vary car to car. I'm only lowered -19mm but I initially opted for adjusters/UCAs to get my car closer to the middle of the alignment range versus the lower end so as to keep/improve steering response.
However, I had the car aligned recently and had it adjusted towards the range demarcation lower line (minimum... -1.3 or something like that) for kicks and did not lose much, if any, steering response so you should be OK with modest lowering.
This is pretty close to your specs....
245/35 and 275/35-19 on 19x9 +27 (spaced from 47, Z34 spec), 19x10 +30. This is the undisputed BEST setup I've experienced in this car and lawdy, I've had many sets on this car....
Good tire size choice - pretty much the "standard" upgrade for Zs on 19s. You could easily go 255 in front if you want with no fender mods. (I run both 245 and 255, neither give me any problems).
Generally speaking, you can lower your car (static, on springs, not true type coilovers that sacrifice the rear spring bucket....that begs for alignment correction) about 20-25mm with little/modest variation nor need for alignment (camber/toe adjusters) but it will vary car to car. I'm only lowered -19mm but I initially opted for adjusters/UCAs to get my car closer to the middle of the alignment range versus the lower end so as to keep/improve steering response.
However, I had the car aligned recently and had it adjusted towards the range demarcation lower line (minimum... -1.3 or something like that) for kicks and did not lose much, if any, steering response so you should be OK with modest lowering.
This is pretty close to your specs....
245/35 and 275/35-19 on 19x9 +27 (spaced from 47, Z34 spec), 19x10 +30. This is the undisputed BEST setup I've experienced in this car and lawdy, I've had many sets on this car....
That's a beautiful setup!!!
So according to what you posted in feel like the tanabe gf210 will be my starting point for a static drop. It's a 1 inch or 25mm front end drop and a 1.2 inch rear end drop. I've never had a set of lowering springs bing the car down quite as far as they claim, even after settling,so that should put me at a good range and if I don't like the results I'll try again with something different. The tires I'm choosing are supposedly designed to last even with mild negative camber. So if my car still responds and corners well then I may just let it ride. If I notice that it is more sluggish though I will probably get it aligned back as close to factory specs as possible. I don't foresee any excessive tire wear but I will be paying attention. Also the neogen is an asymmetrical tire so I can do my own side to side rotation without having to have them taken off the rim.
The drop won't be for a couple months though. The wheels and tires weren't terribly expensive compared to many I looked at but they still set me back a bit. Lol
I am in a serious quandary between the gf210 or being the guy who tries out the Megan lowering springs which are slightly lower. I had a lot of success with Megan products when I was driving Honda's so I'm almost willing to give them a chance because of the price and the fact that next year I intend to go full coilover.
MicVelo gave me some good advice on the subject. However I am for some reason dying to give the Megan's a shot. Lol. I searched the interweb and only saw one post where someone had put them on and had anything to say about it but they had just put them on and there wasn't any updated abbreviations to the post as to whether or not the right quality had gotten better or worse or what.
MicVelo gave me some good advice on the subject. However I am for some reason dying to give the Megan's a shot. Lol. I searched the interweb and only saw one post where someone had put them on and had anything to say about it but they had just put them on and there wasn't any updated abbreviations to the post as to whether or not the right quality had gotten better or worse or what.
I say "go for it". In truth, the least scientific component of the Z's suspension is/are the springs. It doesn't take a lot to build a spring to a particular specification, e.g., x length with y psi compression or somesuch. This is based upon engineering of the suspension (or suspension "kit" as it were).
NOT suggesting all springs are created equal as they are NOT; merely saying that the "lowend" springs can't be that horrifically bad IF THE ENGINEERING IS PRESENT and I don't know if Megan has that or is one of those " a take 400 foot length of coil spring and cut 278 of them to the length to fit a 350Z" hack shops but at a $bill+half, what's to lose?
Good springs can be measured by - amongst many more scientific things - their ability to work effectively with all other components, how long they can do it before they fatigue and die, and, like every other component on the car, how LIGHT can you make it and still do everything well?
But all said, springs aren't all that magical.
Side: my dad, the engineer who used to design submarines and aircraft carriers, would laugh at my trying to tell him why I put lowering springs in my S30s and my attempts to wow him with my "advanced knowledge" of weight transfer, spring frequencies and other dynamics. "Mic, a spring is a spring is a spring. Know what you need to meet the requirements of your suspension design and send it off to the shop to be built by a trained monkey."
I say "go for it". In truth, the least scientific component of the Z's suspension is/are the springs. It doesn't take a lot to build a spring to a particular specification, e.g., x length with y psi compression or somesuch. This is based upon engineering of the suspension (or suspension "kit" as it were).
NOT suggesting all springs are created equal as they are NOT; merely saying that the "lowend" springs can't be that horrifically bad IF THE ENGINEERING IS PRESENT and I don't know if Megan has that or is one of those " a take 400 foot length of coil spring and cut 278 of them to the length to fit a 350Z" hack shops but at a $bill+half, what's to lose?
Good springs can be measured by - amongst many more scientific things - their ability to work effectively with all other components, how long they can do it before they fatigue and die, and, like every other component on the car, how LIGHT can you make it and still do everything well?
But all said, springs aren't all that magical.
Side: my dad, the engineer who used to design submarines and aircraft carriers, would laugh at my trying to tell him why I put lowering springs in my S30s and my attempts to wow him with my "advanced knowledge" of weight transfer, spring frequencies and other dynamics. "Mic, a spring is a spring is a spring. Know what you need to meet the requirements of your suspension design and send it off to the shop to be built by a trained monkey."
He really said that.
Explains a lot about me, yes?
Lol. Right on man. Thanks for a little confidence booster. I even found them from a site sponsor for $117!!!! I can't pass it up. As I previously stated, if they flat out suck or blow my shocks, then it'll just prompt me to move into the coilover discussion. Of course that'll be a discussion to have on the "wife thread" first. Ha!!!
Thanks again.
I was able to throw my forgestars on Friday right after picking up the car from paint.
The wheels set this car off. Just need to throw my springs on and she's set.
That looks right. Found some knock offs of the work as well.
Thanks.
Considering going to concave this year. Considering..... lol
I'm still stoked about mine but I want to have less tire visible. Roads here are way too rough to go any lower though. Maybe bump up to 20's and the concave look instead of dished. Who knows. It's a new year and I have a lot of plans for the Z!!!
