Weird wheel stud probelm...
09-20-2005, 07:39 PM
#21
Sponsor
Performance Nissan
Performance Nissan
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: So-Cal - Ready to go?
Posts: 8,783
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Originally Posted by 350ZNV
Ok good. Thats what I thought. So with my new Nismo lugs and studs it still remains at 85 ft.lbs. right?
the only thing about those nismo lugs is they are all 7 sided locking lugs... so you need a special socket for them...
the socket is only available with the NISMO Lug nut package! DO NOT LOOSE IT!
09-22-2005, 08:54 PM
#27
Sponsor
Performance Nissan
Performance Nissan
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: So-Cal - Ready to go?
Posts: 8,783
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
get a soft headded mallet, tap them out... pull them out the back..
once the caliper / rotor is off its pretty straight forward...
putting in the new ones... you are probably going to sacrifice a lug nut.. works best with an open ended lug nut... take a few washers, put the lug nut over the hub bolt.. torque it down to pull the new hub bolt through till its seated...
after you put the wheels back on.. re-torque them down after 40-50 miles..
once the caliper / rotor is off its pretty straight forward...
putting in the new ones... you are probably going to sacrifice a lug nut.. works best with an open ended lug nut... take a few washers, put the lug nut over the hub bolt.. torque it down to pull the new hub bolt through till its seated...
after you put the wheels back on.. re-torque them down after 40-50 miles..
09-22-2005, 09:53 PM
#29
Originally Posted by EnthuZ
I beg to differ. Please do NOT use anti-seize, or ANY lubricant on the threads. You will get overly high streach of the studs using factory torque specs. Torque specs are for clean & dry threads.
Not sure what caused your issue, but have you checked the accuracy of your torque wrench? Not saying you are doing the torqueing incorrectly, but they need to be tightened COLD, and do not turn the wrench any further once it clicks......I recently watched a "mechanic" on a Porsche add an additional 1/4 turn after I heard the click!
Not sure what caused your issue, but have you checked the accuracy of your torque wrench? Not saying you are doing the torqueing incorrectly, but they need to be tightened COLD, and do not turn the wrench any further once it clicks......I recently watched a "mechanic" on a Porsche add an additional 1/4 turn after I heard the click!
I asked about that myself, and the machinist was very adamant that it (anti-sieze) doesn't affect the torque unless you get it on the nut-to-wheel surfaces.
09-23-2005, 11:11 AM
#30
Ok I may not get to it this weekend. A big problem has come up with my other car ('70 Chevelle) and that is now taking up the garage. I changed the rear springs on it last night and forgot to torque the lugs on the rear wheels when I put them back on. On the way to a car show this morning I noticed the rear end felt loose and it kind of felt like a flat tire but I couldn't hear anything out of the norm. When I pulled off the road to investigate the problem I noticed my passenger side rear wheel was barely hanging on by one lug nut! The lugs and the studs are gone from that wheel and I got the trailer and towed it back to my house, then limped it into the garage. Now I can't get the last lug off because the stud is spinning with the lug, and I can't get to the stud because I can't get the wheel off. Frustrating, but I am just glad the wheel didn't come off when I was driving down the freeway. No more pulling all nighters working on my car for me. I get too tired and I don't think straight.
09-23-2005, 11:32 AM
#31
Ok literally right after I posted this it took me 30 seconds to get that lug and wheel off.
DEATH TOLL:
1 Eagle Alloy Series 212 18" wheel
1 Superior Axle & Gear "heavy duty" axle
1 Drum brake
4 Wheel studs
4 Lug nuts
There is an upside I guess. Although it will cost me buttloads of money, here is what I am going to do to fix the problems...
4 New wheels & tires (I was going to replace them soon anyways)
1 Baer Brakes BBK
20 New lug nuts
1 Set Strange Axles
4 New wheel studs
DEATH TOLL:
1 Eagle Alloy Series 212 18" wheel
1 Superior Axle & Gear "heavy duty" axle
1 Drum brake
4 Wheel studs
4 Lug nuts
There is an upside I guess. Although it will cost me buttloads of money, here is what I am going to do to fix the problems...
4 New wheels & tires (I was going to replace them soon anyways)
1 Baer Brakes BBK
20 New lug nuts
1 Set Strange Axles
4 New wheel studs
.
09-29-2005, 07:08 PM
#34
I finally got around to changing the studs! Here is the promised pic of the old studs. The one on the far left is a normal functioning stud for comparison to the other 3. The second one snapped off at the end, which is still in the lug nut. The other two have that wierd thing that I was talking about where they look like they were stuck in a pencil sharpener...
Sorry about the pic, but I probably have a really crappy camera.
Sorry about the pic, but I probably have a really crappy camera.
10-27-2005, 04:38 PM
#35
Its back!!! WTF!!!
Ok so I installed the new Nismo long studs and Nismo lugs and guess what...? The exact same thing just happened! WTF!!! I went to go change my wheels from a track day and ALL of the back Nismo studs are doing the same thing. They all went on just fine. I put the track wheels on last Friday with no problem, but getting them back off was a different story. Now heres where I see a similarity between the two times. The first time occured when I was taking my wheels off after an autocross, this time it occured after a track day. Whats going on? Is it the hard turning? Is it heat? WTF is going on? I have done tons of track days and autocrosses with no problem, but these last two have ended in the same result. I can't afford to buy new lugs and studs after every event. Both my autocross wheels and my track wheels are the OEM Track model wheels. All lugs were torqued to 85 ft. lbs. The stripping occurs at the end of the studs only. I don't get it.
10-27-2005, 04:51 PM
#38
Sponsor
Performance Nissan
Performance Nissan
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: So-Cal - Ready to go?
Posts: 8,783
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
im wondering if it may be the lug nuts...
but this is the first I have seen with those lug nuts...
Do you have any others to use to try? something open ended maybe?
:-/
but this is the first I have seen with those lug nuts...
Do you have any others to use to try? something open ended maybe?
:-/
10-27-2005, 04:54 PM
#39
Well I had different lug nuts on the car the first time that it happened. I don't have any open ended ones. Obviously I am going to have to overnight some new studs and lugs from you again since the damage is already done. Before I do so, what do you recommend? What do you use on your race cars? Let me know because I would like to order tonight. Thanks.
10-27-2005, 04:57 PM
#40
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had a similar problem...The 1st time I ended up having to replace the entire hub, and the next time I broke off the end of the stud, so I replaced the stud myself. I'm starting to think that it's the lug nuts, so i have a new set on order. And Oh, I don't even track my car at all. I've never had this much trouble with lug nuts/bolts on any car. I use a torque wrench to spec and hand torque my lug nuts.