Volk350Z

iTrader: (65)

I would do Mercury Silver on Silverstone...

GTNPU Z

iTrader: (17)

Well, considering the rest of his kit is JDM. I'd say it's the JDM rears as well. The USDM is just a lip kit that mounts to the OE bumper & the sides bulge out a lot more.

Will Pwr

iTrader: (4)

Cool...thanks....I have a spare stock rear bumper and wanted to play around with some molding and paint ideas...

thanks again

NOBI

iTrader: (1)

so what was the verdict on this rear? that thing is really hot. i hate the USDM attatchments.

NISMOFO

iTrader: (28)

I know it was molded...he answered that in another thread, someone can just PM him to confirm everything else.

Dildorado

Somehow i don't trust local shops to roll my fenders...

So i would need to roll fenders with anything 10.5 inches in the back?

[]V[]addog

iTrader: (3)

i love this thread lots of good pics, details and info for me right now. I'm also looking at something similar. I Was first turned onto this spoke design on my old acura, ADR M-sports, same design, just cheaper. not sure about weight or offsets or anythign though

Do you guys think this woudl work. I'm not looking for huge, just somethign i can call my own.

8.5 front 9.5 rear
245/35/19 275/35/19 It's 45 stock right? so up an inch wheele size, down 10 mm tire size, is this not correct as a general rule

What kind of offset should I be looking for. For either stock riding hight or maybe and inch, inch.5 lower.
thanks.

BhashaZ

iTrader: (18)

It really depends on several factors:

1. Offset
2. Tire Size
3. Tire BRAND
4. Camber

On a 10.5", your two choices of offset at +29 or +17. With a +29, you won't have to roll your fenders. You can even run a 5mm spacer and you'll be fine. With +17, the above factors will come into play and will determine whether or not you need to modify your fenders in any way.

GTNPU Z

iTrader: (17)

Okay, with all these talks about offsets...I got a general question for you since I'm not too knowledgable on this topic:

- Is it safe to assume that the wider wheel you pruchase, the smaller the range for lower offsets? (Obviously, this is specific to our cars.)

Meaning, if I had a 19x11 vs 19x10, I can essentially get a lower offset on the 19x10 which = bigger lip, correct? Or am I getting this all wrong? Now, will this require spacers in order for me to be flush against the fenders? I really don't want to use spacers.

Zquicksilver

iTrader: (5)

As the data grows

I liked the SFs because of the split spoke design also... it's gives the Z a sporty/expensive look imo. I also looked at the ADRs, good rim, but nothing compared with the quality of the VOLKS. I believe they're cast spoke vs drop forged spoke construction. Go here if you want to pick up a pair... I considered these for my winter setup, but decided on something else.http://stores.ebay.com/Nates-Wheels

Back on topic. If you want to play it safe, as I did, then go this route. KWD 2s 255/35/19 and 295/35/19 with 8.5s/+25 and 10.5s/+29. At stock height you will stick out a hair in back (no fender rolling) and be within the wheel well in front. You will also clear the Brembos.
If you drop less than an Inch, you will not have to spend extra money to get back into alignment specs. You will have to cut or roll the fender though with the large rear tire. I've seen the 9.5s and my opinion is, meh... just spend the extra $30 and go wider. Rolling or trimming the fender is nothing, seriously. The look is well worth it, especially when you have peeps in cars 2 to 3x more give you props on your Z.

On the other hand, if you like the rims to stick out a little beyond the fenders, as you can see in the pictures above, then go with the smaller offsets. Many peeps like this, but it wasn't for me.

Zquicksilver

BhashaZ

iTrader: (18)

^^Zquicksilver is very knowledgeable and helpful. He helped answer a bunch of my SF Winning questions.

Zquicksilver

iTrader: (5)

This can be complex and hard to explain. If memory serves me correctly, the spokes on the SF only vary front to back. Two different castings, but many offset variations. The SF wheel is2pieces, the spoke is bolted to an inner flange on the outer ring/rim of the wheel. This flange position varies by offset. This is why the 10.5" rear rim has a varying Lip. The lip on the on the +17s is +12mm larger than the +29s. 29-17=12

Larger offset = more tucked. This is why the +17 protrudes out further than the +29. The offset is the number in relation to the wheels center line. As the offset rises, the Mounting point of the wheel changes, in this case towards the facing side of the wheel.

Hope this helped...
Zquicksilver

Dildorado

Thanks Zquicksilver, +29 it is, not sure about the front offset and that's it!

Selski12

iTrader: (11)

Here was mine on stock height...




Again, this is with 19x9.5" +19 Front/ 19x10.5" +17 Rear on 245/275 35 19 tires.
Didnt get an alignment on it as well, so there may be some negative camber

Now it is lowered but unfortunately havent had the time to take some pics. Will do that once the weather clears and I can clean my car!

BhashaZ

iTrader: (18)

Just an FYI: if you're going with 9.5" wide front, you can go with either +29 or +19, and both will have the exact same lip, but one is tucked in more, while the other one is pushed out more. The reason is, the +19 is a "front" wheel, and the +29 is technically a "rear" wheel".

BhashaZ

iTrader: (18)

Please do take pix, and the same angles you have above would be really helpfull!

BTW, how much did you have to roll the fenders once you lowered it? And how much gap do you have with your Tanabes?

Dildorado

Ordered +19 up front and +29 in the back mercury silver SF winning wheels YEAH!!!!!

Now i better get them quick!!!!

BhashaZ

iTrader: (18)

Nice! Post pix once you get them. BTW, what size tires are you going with? If the rear is 275/35/19, you can add a 5mm spacer and your stance should be perfect IMO.

BhashaZ

iTrader: (18)

Here's what they look like with 5mm spacers in the rear:



(more pix here: https://my350z.com/forum/media-share/176969-some-pix-after-washing-ings-lx-trunk-spoiler-sf-winning.html)

Selski12

iTrader: (11)

I will try to get the same shot as before soon and will post them. The fenders on the rear were rolled to about as much as they can be and that is flat. The gap is around .25" front/rear with the Tanabe GF210.