Just wondering if anyone else has this phenomenon. When i'm coasting along on the highway (zero throttle input) and I press the gas, the car redirects itself to the left (enough to merge if uncorrected). Conversely, if i am at neutral throttle and let off the gas, the car will redirect itself to the right (again, enough to merge if uncorrected).

I have no idea what is causing this, but it only showed up after I had a built engine put in, and has become significantly more pronounced with my most recent alignment. Now, a caveat, if I am at neutral throttle (or any unchanged throttle input) the car drives perfectly straight, it is just when i change my input.

Current mods: fully built engine (big cams, lots of head work, forged internals), Cusco RS clutch-type LSD @ 60% lockup, standard breathing mods / exhaust, 350evo sways, and running BFG KDW2 255/40 rears and 235/40 fronts.

Thanks in advance
-nick

 

That sounds like something with the engine to me.

 

DAMN! With that engine, I would deal with it!

 

i really hope this doesn't mean that my motor mounts are going

 

Check your tire pressure, and get your alignment settings re-checked, camber and toe. If they are the motor mounts, which I highly doubt, SVRTechnologies makes some solid ones that are awesome. I have them in my car.

 

It is actually your Cusco LSD, my Nismo LSD did that same thing. I just changed to the Nismo bushings in the whole rear end. I had the bushings put in w/recall, then had to do the work because the dealer couldn't change 6 out 14 bushings. I spent 2 hours in my shop pressing bushings for the dealer. Then another 3 hours checking their work, 3 bolts on diff. cover finger tight. They also tighten all the pivot points with the suspension in droop position so I had to loosen every one and tighten them at ride height.


There is some help for the locker axle steer issue:
Stiffer bushings help.
LSD oil additive is neede for almost every LSD like yours. (w/clutchs)
The same thing is very common with 4X4 with lockers.

 

Alignment is also important.
Also most people in the USA have not drove the Bahn so they don't know some perfect roads for car feel and feedback

 

sounds like fun

well, i'm going to be out of pocket for a couple months, but when i get back i'll get right on the rear end. i'm considering switching to a gear-type LSD as the parking-lot-speed clacking and jerking is really getting to me

i replaced the fluid about 6k miles ago and made sure an additive went in as well.

Any lead on where i can get performance bushings?

thanks!
-nick

 

The only bushings out are the Nismo. The bushings seem to help, but I only have 250 miles on them. The dealer changed the oil and now the Nismo LSD I have is popping really bad. The receipt for the work says they put 3qts. in the rear diff., it holds 3pts.
They left the nut on the diff. mount stud's nut finger loose also.

 

Is your car a US model? You may want the Euro cooler cover on your diff.

 

yeah, i've got a US model (build date 03/03)

what exactly is causing the popping? clutch plates slapping together?

mine was originally at 100% lockup, but when i had the engine put in i had the folks at CPR swap it down to 60% -- it still makes the same amount of noise / jerking... i really hope i'm not going to have to change the rear end fluid every time i do an engine oil change, that would be a bit ridiculous.

is it possible to have a clutch-type LSD and not have the jerking and popping? or is this symptomatic of just having clutch plates at all?

thanks
-nick

 

Yes it is your dif. Sorry

As for the popping, if all that was performed was a fluid change they most likely forgot to add the limited slip friction (forget exact term at this time) additive. Take it back asap and get this corrected or you will need new dif soon.

 

The Cusco diff needs no additives whatsoever - certain fluids need them however. I run Motorcraft 75w140 (or 80w140 - I forget) - zero additives. I've also run Castrol dino gear oil and Agip synthetic with zero additives as well.

There is no reason at 60% lockup your diff should be anything short of near silent,a nd not exhibiting any pops or grunts. Perhaps the plates were not aligned the right way, or perhaps the fluid you used does require the additive. Ask anyone who has been in my car - my diff (60% lockup) is completely unobtrusive.