Getting the alignment right for ``cheap``?
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I have the Hotchkis TVS1 (1000 miles ago) on the car and it`s time to do new tires. I have had feathering since my ownership of the car in Aug 03`. This time the feathering seemed to take about 5000-7000 miles to take hold, which is better than previous times. I`m hoping that the higher spring rates on the front will help the tires better planted and reduce tire wear/feathering.
Since the car is moderately lowered (-.6/-.8``) , and the front camber is not adjustable what do you think about this?
If the shop is willing to give a `before` reading on the alignment and the camber is within spec (-.75 to -1.25 give or take in front and a bit more in back), what about asking for a ``thrust`` or two-wheel alignment that would address the big one - TOE. I wonder if a ``4 wheel alignment`` is warranted in these particular circumstances : Only toe is adjustable, and camber is decent? I assume a ``2 wheel or thrust alignment`` addresses toe?
I don`t mean to ``skimp`` on the car , saving $50 now to lose much more later with early tire wear, but if toe is the culprit, and a cheaper ( read non $100-125 alignment) will bring toe into spec, why not do it?
Alignment gurus chime in!
Since the car is moderately lowered (-.6/-.8``) , and the front camber is not adjustable what do you think about this?
If the shop is willing to give a `before` reading on the alignment and the camber is within spec (-.75 to -1.25 give or take in front and a bit more in back), what about asking for a ``thrust`` or two-wheel alignment that would address the big one - TOE. I wonder if a ``4 wheel alignment`` is warranted in these particular circumstances : Only toe is adjustable, and camber is decent? I assume a ``2 wheel or thrust alignment`` addresses toe?
I don`t mean to ``skimp`` on the car , saving $50 now to lose much more later with early tire wear, but if toe is the culprit, and a cheaper ( read non $100-125 alignment) will bring toe into spec, why not do it?
Alignment gurus chime in!
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Cheap is usually the most expensive thing you can do.
The question is not just barely bringing the alignment into the extreme wide oem spec, but setting things at the nominal or normal center point EXACTLY!
The question is not just barely bringing the alignment into the extreme wide oem spec, but setting things at the nominal or normal center point EXACTLY!
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I understand there is a ``nominal`` setting for camber, toe, etc, but after reading posts on camber I hear that a huge range , say, from -.75 to -1.5 on front camber is enjoyed with modest tire wear. Track junkies go to -2.5, 3, although that is extreme for road use.
I hear your point that the wildly wide oem specs are ridiculous: who would want positive camber like oem says is allowed?!? But, what if the camber is already in the ``modest and acceptable range``, such as -1 degree?
A better way of phrasing my initial question might be: What do you get out of an alignment job for the Z if camber is already not adjustable (assuming no camber arms are bought aftermarket). What do they DO besides toe adjustment ?
I hear your point that the wildly wide oem specs are ridiculous: who would want positive camber like oem says is allowed?!? But, what if the camber is already in the ``modest and acceptable range``, such as -1 degree?
A better way of phrasing my initial question might be: What do you get out of an alignment job for the Z if camber is already not adjustable (assuming no camber arms are bought aftermarket). What do they DO besides toe adjustment ?
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Get an alignment. Your camber may be unadjustable in the front, but other parameters like toe may be off, and toe kills tires faster than camber. I paid $120 for a 4 wheel alignment and it made a night and day difference. My front toe was off .25 on the DS and .3 on the PS.
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