eagletanggreen

iTrader: (40)

Get the Volks and call it a day!

QdotJ

iTrader: (13)

As promised here is my choice, a set of Blue Work Tuner lugs...

The Inspiration.....



The Result....


I think they give my Z a JDM look, or at least something close to it.
Before

After


I'm happy with them, but one of the rear studs on the driver's side kicked my A$$, I need to replace the stud soon, almost half of it is still in the factory lug. Luckily there was enough of the stud left to install a lug on it. The other four are torqued to 93lbs, so I should be fine until I can get that stud replaced....

I noticed that the studs on the front didn't offer much room either. I might get some extended studs installed later on.

Thanks everyone for their input. I'll keep these for a while until I truly make up my mind on the Neo-Chro's... It's still a love/ hate relationship I have with them...

Volk350Z

iTrader: (65)

I would of got some Red Lugs to match the brakes...

or if you want blue for you Volk Racing GTS i would of at least get Rays lugs lol..

QdotJ

iTrader: (13)

^^ I understand where you're coming from, but the red looked too pink to me ( I feel like I'm repeating myself). At the price I got these lugs if I choose to change them either today or next year, it would not have been a huge loss.

Imagine dropping $100+ on a cosmetic enhancement that you're not satisfied with? I know it happens all the time, but I'm not going to fall victim to that like others have.

Volk350Z

iTrader: (65)

well it doesn't matter cause all Japanese Lugs are made by the same company anyway lol...

QdotJ

iTrader: (13)

Oh now you tell me... LOL So technically I DID get a set of Rays'.... LOL

True enough during my visits at Status I thumbed through a few catalogs and noticed that Rays, for instance, was the mother-company for many name-brand wheels; Volks, Gram Lights (I think), Nismo etc.....

I guess the same goes with Lugs...

Here's quick visual comparison of the chrome stock lugs and the Work Racing Lugs

__jb

iTrader: (3)

Not very often a vendor recommends a product he doesn't sell. I think I'll check these out.

Thanks, Adam.

jinsei888

iTrader: (14)

get R40 Neochro Project Kics...

I hear they are backordered until November...

__jb

iTrader: (3)

I would be very unhappy if I paid $240 for a set of R40's and they stripped.

Why do they strip anyway? Are the OEM lugs too short?

QdotJ

iTrader: (13)

Exactly what keeps me clear of them. Not to mention they or open ended. I understand this is to lessen the chance of the coating being scratched off by using a torx socket instead of a standard one. (I could be wrong)

I don't track my car or feel the need to change them so the chance of the lugs stripping would be slim to none for me at least.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

Simple - OEM studs are steel, and many of the lugs are aluminum. If they were really a quality piece, it would have a steel insert for the threads. But, that costs more, and weighs more, and sorta ruins the marketing "schtick" as to why lightweight lugs exist in the first place. Sure, it saves weight (we're talking grams, certainly nothing anyone would ever ever notice or feel), but at the expense of longevity. I went down this road on my own car, trying to stick it out with the fancy JDM lugs. Problem is, if you lose one, or lose a key, ir strip one, you have to buy a complete new set since they are not sold individually....that gets pricey. Then, cmobine that with the fact that aluminum being threaded onto steel does not really work all that well, and you end up with damaged lugs, and/or damaged studs. I got to the point where I had bought the original set of lugs (~$120), a spare set (since I had once misplaced the key and two, had damaged lugs due to on and off) - another $120, and was on 5 replaced studs (they don't cost alot but its not a fun thing to have to do on your day off). Eventually, I replaced the damaged studs, through my fancy JDM lugs in the trash, and went to tried and true Spline Drives. I personally use the Gorilla ones, since there is a local warehouse distributor for them, so we buy 'em in bulk and we always have them here. The McGard ones, IMHO, are even nicer, as the "head" if you will (the part that sits against the wheel) actually rotates, which means no damage to the wheels even if you, or a shop, uses air tools to take them off. Plus, the color never ever ever fades, unlike the duralumin ones (my black lugs eventually turned a nasty shade of BBQ black with some light grey spotting...and I use nothing more than plain old car wash soap and water to wash the wheels with). Lived and learned

I do think the duralumin based ones are nice for show use, just based on my own personal experiences, I don't feel they are worth the price of admission, nor the compromises mentioned above.

There also are titanium lugs (even more $$) - I have not yet tried them so no idea how they are from a longevity standpoint

Takhteh

iTrader: (18)

McGard Spline Drive lugs. Get them from EBAY. Blk would look good here, IMO.

Volk350Z

iTrader: (65)

Kics R40 only use aluminum on the taper the body is made of Cold-Forged SCM-435 material. I havn't have any stripping problem even with all my wheel change...

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

exactly..has not stripped because SCM435 is chromoly steel

A steel based lug should never strip, unless you cross thread it. An aluminum based lug is almost guaranteed to strip

Dave 90TT

iTrader: (4)

I've got a set of the R40 extended, open ended Neo Chro for my G. Since I installed them, and torqued them to 85 ft-lbs, I have some vibration at high speeds (>65 mph) I torqued them to 90 ft-lbs, and the vibration moved to a higher speed (>75 mph)

Am I missing something here, should I be torquing them to a higher setting, or should I go back to the Gorilla spline drive lugs I have?

Edit: Forgot to mention these are not on stock wheels, they are on my Racing Hart RS-721's

Dave 90TT

iTrader: (4)

Anyone?

__jb

iTrader: (3)

I've never heard of lug nut tightening torque affecting wheel vibration.

On second thought... maybe the lug nuts are cross threaded and not tightening up the wheels as much as normal when you torque them down. Try loosening the lug nuts and see if any are tight to turn.

Maybe a centering hub is not on straight or something. I'd jack up the car and spin the wheels to see if they are straight... or just remove the wheels and look for issues.