aftermarket wheels, and then 2 tpms broke while trying to band them, i bought new ones but i dont wanna go thru the hassle.. i personally dont care about something telling me the tires are low... so is their anyway i can get the light to stay off with the tpms not in/on the car?

worst case scenario i was thinking program the extra tpms i bought and then putting them in the spare tire so it will have pressure on the system but i probably dont wanna know what they would charge to program the new tpms.. plus i dont really trust any of the local dealers w/ my susp/wheel setup because their parking lots are covered in potholes i see the guys hit all the time w/ the other cars.

thanx in advance

riley

 

Obviously, you didn't read the sticky at the top of this forum...

https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-tires/272900-read-this-before-you-ask-about-tire-pressure-monitor-tp.html


The simple answer is "No, there is no way to disable the warning light."

BTW - putting the sensors in a spare is useless. The tire has to spin for them to switch on. That's why you have to go 20mph or faster to get a reading.

 

Riley,

Configuration: My car is a 2003 Performance Model equipped with TPMS.

If I understand your question (and please forgive me if I missed what you are asking):

I have the same problem you describe because I run 18" summer wheels and high performance tires when the temperature is above 40 degrees; and 17" winter wheels and snow tires when there is a lower temperature, snow, or ice.

I keep TPMS sensors in my 18" wheels, but not in my "winter" 17" wheels (I do not have TPMS sensors in my winter 17" wheels).

Here is what happens with this configuration:

Since I have TPMS sensors in my 18" wheels with performance tires, the system works as expected and reports any low-tire-pressure event. Nice.

I do not mount TPMS sensors in my 17" winter wheel/tire combination. When I mount the snows (17" wheels and no TPMS sensors), the TPMS warning light goes on and remains that way. I do get a beep (after driving a few miles and at about 12-15 minutes), and then the system "gives up." The dash light remains ON, but the beeping goes away.


--Spike

 

Here kitty kitty...

 

so cute, but to the effect of "no their is no way to disable the warning light" theirs always a way, just takes the effort.. maybe instead of people giving up we put a little work and figure this out, ive read over at least 750 pages of the service manual bouncing around from different sections and i figured a couple things out.. but the main problem is if the wire with the pressure info is disconnected from the cluster then it send an error.. so im thinking of possibly opening the cluster and cancelling out the LED so that the system still reads a "malfunction" but theirs no LED to blink saying theirs malfunction because even under malfunction nothing in the system gets affected.. just light comes on..

 

Riley,

After posting my response, I see the messages from The Tech (suggesting that you search this subforum) and DaveZ#3 (directing you to the Sticky).

Your question is legitimate, and may not be answered easily by doing a search. I've been there, did that, and was still confused on this issue. OK... maybe I'm a little slow, but mercifully Dave answered my question about this (same as yours) a while ago.

In your case, You don't want to mount any of the individual sensors. Your dash "warning" light will remain ON. I would not mess with the ECU or any of the car's electronics trying to turn this OFF. Just leave it ON. You may get an annoying beep from the system after a few minutes of driving, but that goes away and does not come back (if you do not have any TPMS sensors in your wheels).

This has been an issue for me as well, so please post back if your experience is different from what I describe.

And... thanks for posting. This Forum is only as good as the people who participate and post messages here.

--Spike

 

well the sensors power by spinning over 36mph.. and then send signal to the keyless entry system which sends signal to the BCM which sends it via white wire #15 to thecluster which reads the signal and puts it thru the unified meter control unit which displays which is malfunctioning. anywho.. its a very complicated system but ive got a few ideas that will work just gotta see what signal it sends thru #15 when everything is acting properly.. cut #15 and duplicate the signal sending it thru #15 into the unified meter control unit.. and solving the problem.. once i figure it out ill more than likely make the lil clip on piece.. hopefully have it figured out within a week.... i figure how many people have aftermarket wheels? lol.. might come in hand

 

If you do get if figured out, please post the solution.

Something to consider: Most will want it to work when they have the appropriate OEM or compatible setup, and want it defeated in "renegade" configurations. The idea is to keep it "retrieveable."

--Spike

 

most arent me, lol. ill make it work however itl actually work... if they wanna do it.. so be it.. the way everyones so negative about figuring out new things i doubt anyone will want to try it so why make it compatible to their needs

 

For the amount of time and effort you would go into to make a simulator to trick the computer into thinking it's getting the pressure signal, you could just put the sensors in your wheel and have the added benefit of actually being able to monitor and read your tire pressures.

 

Ha, +1.

Also, Spike - you said you have an '03. If you look at the sticky, somewhere, you will find info that under the passenger side dash you can unplug the TPMS receiver so that you will no longer get the beep - you just get the warning light after 30 or so miles of driving.

 

isnt that the my350z mascot??

 

Could be.

 

Actually, I think it "Should be."

My vote is to make this the official my350z mascot for thread starts. It's a kind and gentle reminder that you need to search before starting a thread. I doubt anyone finds this clever representation of a wise suggestion as offensive. New members would notice this as much as the huge text display. I say keep the huge text banner in place, and add THE TECH's animation to the banner you see when starting a new thread.

--Spike

 

Good point. I did see this in the Sticky, but decided to keep everything (the electronics) intact. During the Summer, Spring, and Fall; I have 18" wheels with performance tires and TPMS. In the Winter months, I have 17" wheels and snow tires without TPMS.

Actually, I don't mind the single beep. Hearing the beep daily is a good reminder that I'm driving without TPMS, and need to inspect the tires and manually check tire-pressures weekly. It is not unusual to experience a 40 to 50 degree F temperature variation within a 24 hour period here in Frostbite Falls. One day it is +25 degrees F, and that same night it can drop to -25 degrees F. A driver in this environment needs to constantly monitor tire pressures.

As Dave wisely points out, it's probably easier and less costly to simply install remote TPMS sensors on the Winter wheels instead of trying to "defeat the system." You could:

1) Move the remote sensors from your Summer wheels to your Winter wheels,
or...
2) Buy a second set of remote sensors for your Winter wheels.

Option 1 costs a little to have the sensors moved and remounting the tires. Option 2 costs a little to have the sensors reprogrammed.

--Spike

PS An aside that has nothing to do with the subject of this thread: Boy and howdy do you appreciate the better handling you get when running performance tires on 18" wheels vs. snow tires on 17" rims.

 

Dave,
ive searched about this particular situation of tps... and wonder if you have the answer,
im about to band my girlfriends new volks. she has one bad sensor(verified at the dealer). i plan to put a new one in the offending position. it's my understanding the dealer has to program the ecu/tps units on the car to make them all read. when they reprogram the car, do they need to touch/contact the actual tps units to do it? or can i assemble the whole thing and take the car in and have them do it?
thanks for any insight.
randy

 

They reprogram while the wheels are on the car.

 

Correct - the programming is done on the car, in the wheel. Actually, it's not the sensors that get "re-programmed", it's the car that is told to recognize the new sensors. They use a special too to activate the sensor while it's stationary.

 

thats my question, does the tool need to make contact with the sensors/stems, or are we talking about scanning airwaves/frequencies do make them active? hence..is it ok to continue my plan of doing the banding the sensors in the wheel and mounting the tires and then a trip to the dealer? sorry if this has been answered and im just missing it.
thanks again
randy

 

I see your dilemma. The description in the service manual states that the tech much touch the activation tool to the transmitter. I assume that it won't work once you have them inside the wheel. I would double-check with the service department before you do anything.