Please Help. Wheel Spacers...
#41
Originally Posted by Dave 90TT
Studs are a different thread pitch, so you would have to get different lugs and locks. SPLParts sells good quality lugs on their site, as well, but you do have those nice shiny black ones...
I actually bought my spacers from someone off this site, but there are a couple of places that sell good quality spacers. Performance Nissan does, as well as many of the vendors on here.
Dave
I actually bought my spacers from someone off this site, but there are a couple of places that sell good quality spacers. Performance Nissan does, as well as many of the vendors on here.
Dave
#46
Originally Posted by Vertex350
It looks like the rear BBK would clear fine without the spacers. In fact, when the S1's were on Rickdogg's car it clears his BBK. Why don't you just shoot him a PM to be sure?
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Originally Posted by Robert_K
OK... I'm gonna go with the Ichiba 5mm front. Figured 5mm on the rear should clear the ST-22 & 15mm might be too big (since I can't check). So I'm gonna do a 10mm on the rear.
Thanks everyone for your input!!!
Thanks everyone for your input!!!
#52
Originally Posted by redlude97
What tire size are you running in the rear? With a roll, a 15mm spacer will clear easily, you could even go 20mm if you wanted it to be aggressive
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Originally Posted by Robert_K
I don't want to go aggressive, I want to clear my BBK. As far as the tires size; 285/30-19 As posted in Post #1.
Originally Posted by Robert_K
Can someone give some sound advice. Below are the specs of my wheels. What size spacers do you think I'll need to clear the StopTech BBK. I'm looking at the Project KICS Wide Thread Spacer; Click Me.
FYI: I'm in Kuwait and can't print out the StopTech Caliper sheet to check for fitment.
Wheels: Work Meister S1 3-piece
Front Sizes and offset: 19x9.5 R Disk +24 offset
Rear Sizes and offset: 19x11 R Disk +36 offset
Brakes: StopTech F&R BBK
Front Sizes: 14" (355mm) ST-40 4-Pot
Rear Sizes: 13" (328mm) ST-22 2-Pot
FYI: I'm in Kuwait and can't print out the StopTech Caliper sheet to check for fitment.
Wheels: Work Meister S1 3-piece
Front Sizes and offset: 19x9.5 R Disk +24 offset
Rear Sizes and offset: 19x11 R Disk +36 offset
Brakes: StopTech F&R BBK
Front Sizes: 14" (355mm) ST-40 4-Pot
Rear Sizes: 13" (328mm) ST-22 2-Pot
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
I run the Ichiba spacers on my own car - they include longer studs and are cnc'd from billet aluminum
The Ichiba spacer are nice, but the cheap hub bolts have alot to be desired, they dont have the good corrosion resistance like the factory ones and H&R since they arent aluminized. Ive run into alot of rust with those hub bolts, snap a few of them also because when they were being loosened they became cross threaded somehow on its way out.
What i do agree with is your statement about using spacers that have hub bolts built into them, i dont feel as those are a good setup either as many of them like Project Mu ones are not hubcentric and allows the hub bolts to carry all of the car's loads instead of the hub.
One thing is that many spacers below 20mm does not allow enough thickness to clear the factory hub bolts so you can mount your wheels on. That's unless your wheels have the hollow sections in between the hub bolt holes for the excess stud length to clear.
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Originally Posted by MyNismoRoadster
The Ichiba spacer are nice, but the cheap hub bolts have alot to be desired, they dont have the good corrosion resistance like the factory ones and H&R since they arent aluminized. Ive run into alot of rust with those hub bolts, snap a few of them also because when they were being loosened they became cross threaded somehow on its way out.
What i do agree with is your statement about using spacers that have hub bolts built into them, i dont feel as those are a good setup either as many of them like Project Mu ones are not hubcentric and allows the hub bolts to carry all of the car's loads instead of the hub.
One thing is that many spacers below 20mm does not allow enough thickness to clear the factory hub bolts so you can mount your wheels on. That's unless your wheels have the hollow sections in between the hub bolt holes for the excess stud length to clear.
What i do agree with is your statement about using spacers that have hub bolts built into them, i dont feel as those are a good setup either as many of them like Project Mu ones are not hubcentric and allows the hub bolts to carry all of the car's loads instead of the hub.
One thing is that many spacers below 20mm does not allow enough thickness to clear the factory hub bolts so you can mount your wheels on. That's unless your wheels have the hollow sections in between the hub bolt holes for the excess stud length to clear.
I hear ya - so far I have not had any rusting issues with them, though I did have one set where the knurl just didn't want to grab and we stripped a whole bunch trying to install them. Contacted Ichiba, and they expressed us out a new set free of charge and without hassle, which, as you probably know nowadays, is alot I haven't snapped any yet though, or had any other issues. We've used H&R ones too, and they've worked out great as well (we run them on both our BMW IT cars)
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