Wheel manufacturers to stay away from?
#21
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Amazing how few test brand new and used wheels without tires to make sure they meet oem specs for radial and axial runout. A simple mounting of wheel on a precision balancer to see that each side requires 5 grams or less to bring into 0/0 gram balance.
Not unusal to see brand new JUNK wheels that need 15,20, even 30 grams per side to balance without tires, which means they fail runout specs.
Careful shops often use COARSE setting to round down to nearest zero, 10 grams, instead of FINE setting which resolves to 1.0 gram weights.
A Hunter radial force test [with tires on] can tell you how the COMBINATION works together but not which is causing the most problems without demounting and rotating 90 degrees 3 times so much easier to start with near perfect wheels and mark [engrave a number/dot] the high weight spots on wheels. Then a year later you can see if wheels have bent by changing weight locations.
Never buy a wheel unless the seller agress to a prepurchase or money back on failure of balance test.............many wheels fail due to unseen shipping damage.
When you sign a UPS delivery hard to claim damage since UPS will blame sender.
Wheel sellers know these things and hope you don't!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Not unusal to see brand new JUNK wheels that need 15,20, even 30 grams per side to balance without tires, which means they fail runout specs.
Careful shops often use COARSE setting to round down to nearest zero, 10 grams, instead of FINE setting which resolves to 1.0 gram weights.
A Hunter radial force test [with tires on] can tell you how the COMBINATION works together but not which is causing the most problems without demounting and rotating 90 degrees 3 times so much easier to start with near perfect wheels and mark [engrave a number/dot] the high weight spots on wheels. Then a year later you can see if wheels have bent by changing weight locations.
Never buy a wheel unless the seller agress to a prepurchase or money back on failure of balance test.............many wheels fail due to unseen shipping damage.
When you sign a UPS delivery hard to claim damage since UPS will blame sender.
Wheel sellers know these things and hope you don't!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by Q45tech; 05-29-2008 at 08:38 AM.
#22
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If you're talking $1500 budget for wheels with no tires, then I wouldn't bother looking at most of those wheels you listed. I got my Work CR Kai's from a vendor on here shipped with lug nuts and hubcentric rings for $1300. Like people have said, search the market place on here, there are great deals to be had through the vendors, or even used from people on here.
#23
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Wow, just saw a picture of a set of Black Volk GTS on a black z. Anyone know where I might find some in 18? I have done some searches and came up with 19" sizes only...
The Enkei FN-10, R1 Racing Drift Black Gloss, Tork Imagine, 5zigen ProRacer zr+520 are all wheels I have considered. I also liked the OZ Ultrlegera, but the black wheels only come in 18x8, I need at least 8.5-9.0.
I have looked through some of the vendors and group buys, but haven't seemed to make a match yet.
The Enkei FN-10, R1 Racing Drift Black Gloss, Tork Imagine, 5zigen ProRacer zr+520 are all wheels I have considered. I also liked the OZ Ultrlegera, but the black wheels only come in 18x8, I need at least 8.5-9.0.
I have looked through some of the vendors and group buys, but haven't seemed to make a match yet.
#25
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Originally Posted by jcandas
Wow, just saw a picture of a set of Black Volk GTS on a black z. Anyone know where I might find some in 18? I have done some searches and came up with 19" sizes only...
The Enkei FN-10, R1 Racing Drift Black Gloss, Tork Imagine, 5zigen ProRacer zr+520 are all wheels I have considered. I also liked the OZ Ultrlegera, but the black wheels only come in 18x8, I need at least 8.5-9.0.
I have looked through some of the vendors and group buys, but haven't seemed to make a match yet.
The Enkei FN-10, R1 Racing Drift Black Gloss, Tork Imagine, 5zigen ProRacer zr+520 are all wheels I have considered. I also liked the OZ Ultrlegera, but the black wheels only come in 18x8, I need at least 8.5-9.0.
I have looked through some of the vendors and group buys, but haven't seemed to make a match yet.
#26
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Originally Posted by Q45tech
Amazing how few test brand new and used wheels without tires to make sure they meet oem specs for radial and axial runout. A simple mounting of wheel on a precision balancer to see that each side requires 5 grams or less to bring into 0/0 gram balance.
Not unusal to see brand new JUNK wheels that need 15,20, even 30 grams per side to balance without tires, which means they fail runout specs.
Careful shops often use COARSE setting to round down to nearest zero, 10 grams, instead of FINE setting which resolves to 1.0 gram weights.
A Hunter radial force test [with tires on] can tell you how the COMBINATION works together but not which is causing the most problems without demounting and rotating 90 degrees 3 times so much easier to start with near perfect wheels and mark [engrave a number/dot] the high weight spots on wheels. Then a year later you can see if wheels have bent by changing weight locations.
Never buy a wheel unless the seller agress to a prepurchase or money back on failure of balance test.............many wheels fail due to unseen shipping damage.
When you sign a UPS delivery hard to claim damage since UPS will blame sender.
Wheel sellers know these things and hope you don't!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Not unusal to see brand new JUNK wheels that need 15,20, even 30 grams per side to balance without tires, which means they fail runout specs.
Careful shops often use COARSE setting to round down to nearest zero, 10 grams, instead of FINE setting which resolves to 1.0 gram weights.
A Hunter radial force test [with tires on] can tell you how the COMBINATION works together but not which is causing the most problems without demounting and rotating 90 degrees 3 times so much easier to start with near perfect wheels and mark [engrave a number/dot] the high weight spots on wheels. Then a year later you can see if wheels have bent by changing weight locations.
Never buy a wheel unless the seller agress to a prepurchase or money back on failure of balance test.............many wheels fail due to unseen shipping damage.
When you sign a UPS delivery hard to claim damage since UPS will blame sender.
Wheel sellers know these things and hope you don't!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#27
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If it aint Volk...its broke
I know Volks arn't for everyone but you can seriously find a very good deal in the classifieds. Another good idea would be to ask around in your community thread because im sure people always sell wheels there too. That way you can see what they look like on your own car. Work makes some amazing looking wheels too.
I know Volks arn't for everyone but you can seriously find a very good deal in the classifieds. Another good idea would be to ask around in your community thread because im sure people always sell wheels there too. That way you can see what they look like on your own car. Work makes some amazing looking wheels too.
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ADR should be on the list of wheels not to buy.
#35
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I don't necessarily agree with the whole "save ur money for better wheels" point of view.
Sure, if ur car is prepped to the gills, and ur tryin to extract every last ounce of performance out of it, and you have a big budget, then go ahead and buy some of the top $$$ wheels.
But, if you are in the 98th percentile with the rest of us where your car isn't fully track prepped and your budget isn't unlimited then you might be better off buying some less expensive wheels and getting more bang for ur buck.
Ur prolly better off buying your Rota's or Motegi Touge's and spending the money u saved on some quality, sticky rubber and maybe even some other mods. That's when u'll start seeing bang for your buck.
One more thing... if Tanner Foust can win in Formula D with Motegi Touge's on the corners of his Z then they are prolly good enough for your daily driver. How's that for quality?
Sure, if ur car is prepped to the gills, and ur tryin to extract every last ounce of performance out of it, and you have a big budget, then go ahead and buy some of the top $$$ wheels.
But, if you are in the 98th percentile with the rest of us where your car isn't fully track prepped and your budget isn't unlimited then you might be better off buying some less expensive wheels and getting more bang for ur buck.
Ur prolly better off buying your Rota's or Motegi Touge's and spending the money u saved on some quality, sticky rubber and maybe even some other mods. That's when u'll start seeing bang for your buck.
One more thing... if Tanner Foust can win in Formula D with Motegi Touge's on the corners of his Z then they are prolly good enough for your daily driver. How's that for quality?
#40
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Originally Posted by moforeynolds
I think someone mentioned it in jest and the OP put it on his ridiculous list.
Stay away from Lowenhart? wtffffff?? Your list is inaccurate
Stay away from wheels like AME, Enkei, PIAA, Advan, BBS, OZ, and Wedsport. Stick to the quality wheels like Ruff, Luff, Motegi, Sportmax, ADR, Axis and Sevas.
Stay away from Lowenhart? wtffffff?? Your list is inaccurate
Stay away from wheels like AME, Enkei, PIAA, Advan, BBS, OZ, and Wedsport. Stick to the quality wheels like Ruff, Luff, Motegi, Sportmax, ADR, Axis and Sevas.
Wow, you try to get some help and the low self esteem haters just have to pile on...
I know this is over your heads, but try to stay with me on this. I am asking for help, not declaring some truth that you need to come here and tell me I got it all wrong.
If I got it wrong, then it is because people posted it here, and i added it to get feedback. I just didn't expect the snob patrol to visit.
Do us all a favor and don't come back.
For the rest of you, I appreciate you taking the time to help!