Tire almost exploded!!!! Close one. Yes, there's a picture.
09-09-2008, 08:34 AM
#21
Originally Posted by SIN3
thats normal for stock Z the suspension from the factory tends to toe inwards on rebound.
09-09-2008, 08:37 AM
#22
New Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by WTX350Z
too much Toe out eats the inside edge of tires...this is fact, not opinion.
too much Toe IN will eat outside edge....another fact.
I'll try to explain it. Toe out means the tires are trying to go away from each other. but the damned car is holding them together...so they are scuffing against the ground trying their best to get away from one another. Toe in is the opposite...they are trying to hug, but the car is holding them apart, and they can't
Here's another example
when your skiing and your ski's are going this way (top is in front of skier) \ /....this is toe out. the snow collects in the middle.
when your doing the pie wedge / \ (toe in) the snow collects on the outsides....
I'm not great at explaining things over the internet....I lack the patience needed.
too much Toe IN will eat outside edge....another fact.
I'll try to explain it. Toe out means the tires are trying to go away from each other. but the damned car is holding them together...so they are scuffing against the ground trying their best to get away from one another. Toe in is the opposite...they are trying to hug, but the car is holding them apart, and they can't
Here's another example
when your skiing and your ski's are going this way (top is in front of skier) \ /....this is toe out. the snow collects in the middle.
when your doing the pie wedge / \ (toe in) the snow collects on the outsides....
I'm not great at explaining things over the internet....I lack the patience needed.
That was a great, simple explanation.
09-09-2008, 08:49 AM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 2,089
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Z04
why
Originally Posted by WTX350Z
too much Toe out eats the inside edge of tires...this is fact, not opinion.
too much Toe IN will eat outside edge....another fact.
I'll try to explain it. Toe out means the tires are trying to go away from each other. but the damned car is holding them together...so they are scuffing against the ground trying their best to get away from one another. Toe in is the opposite...they are trying to hug, but the car is holding them apart, and they can't
Here's another example
when your skiing and your ski's are going this way (top is in front of skier) \ /....this is toe out. the snow collects in the middle.
when your doing the pie wedge / \ (toe in) the snow collects on the outsides....
I'm not great at explaining things over the internet....I lack the patience needed.
too much Toe IN will eat outside edge....another fact.
I'll try to explain it. Toe out means the tires are trying to go away from each other. but the damned car is holding them together...so they are scuffing against the ground trying their best to get away from one another. Toe in is the opposite...they are trying to hug, but the car is holding them apart, and they can't
Here's another example
when your skiing and your ski's are going this way (top is in front of skier) \ /....this is toe out. the snow collects in the middle.
when your doing the pie wedge / \ (toe in) the snow collects on the outsides....
I'm not great at explaining things over the internet....I lack the patience needed.
09-09-2008, 09:05 AM
#24
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 2,089
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That still leaves the question open, why is it ONLY ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. There is no premature wear on the driver's side at all. Everything is fine on the driver's side.
Excuse my ignorance.
Excuse my ignorance.
Last edited by 07rdsterGT; 09-09-2008 at 09:07 AM.
09-09-2008, 09:57 AM
#27
Originally Posted by 07rdsterGT
That still leaves the question open, why is it ONLY ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. There is no premature wear on the driver's side at all. Everything is fine on the driver's side.
Excuse my ignorance.
Excuse my ignorance.
With Toe angles you have 3 measurements that your looking at. Right and left side Toe, and total Toe.
The thing that dictates which tire will wear is the relation of the right/left sides to the total...if the total toe is .20 for example..
Steering wheel centered. right toe is .18 left toe is .02
total is .20
Right will eat up inside edge. left will be fine.
make sense?
If right is .1 and left is .1 you will likely have wear on both sides.
Each side is independently adjustable, and both sides are equally important.
On some older vehicles (esp large trucks) you will only have one toe adjustment...it adjusts both tires at the same time, so you set it, then you goto another adjustment location to center the steering wheel.
On new cars, you center the steering wheel w/ your toe adjustments...this is why the wheel should be locked/chucked during toe alterations. then recentered after to make sure the toe setting is proper, and the wheel is centered.
Last edited by WTX350Z; 09-09-2008 at 10:01 AM.
09-10-2008, 07:41 AM
#29
Originally Posted by 07rdsterGT
Thank you! You want to do my alignment that way I know it's right this time? LOL
I tried to buy an older hunter machine not too long ago, but the maintenance on them is a PITA...esp with parts becoming impossible to find.
so it goes I guess.
09-12-2008, 04:04 AM
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 2,089
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok. Well it isn't the toe; it's actually what I thought it was, camber.
So anyways, the LIGHTER GREY squares are green (for within spec) and the darker are red (out of spec)
Question: I was told that on these cars, you don't adjust the camber/caster on the front, just the toe. True? If true, see below for why I think the camber is border line on the front passenger wheel.
The reason I had this alignment done was because of an accident. Stupid ****ing story and I'm not getting into it. Just know that it was hard enough to crack the upper oil pan and bend the one of the rear wheels along with scraping up the exhaust and sway bar. The reason I say this is because the tech. explained how the front was in complete adjustment even though the right front camber is right on the green/red line. So basically, we are guessing the Knuckle is bent on the front AND now that I see how much different the two rear cambers are from each other, I'm starting to think the rear knuckle is bent on the passenger side too since there has NEVER been an adjustment on the rear of the car yet (adjustment bolts are seized, and the policey at the shop when doing an insurance claim is not to spend time trying to free **** up....stupid, i know, but thats the reason the rear wasn't adjusted)
Any thoughts guys?
So anyways, the LIGHTER GREY squares are green (for within spec) and the darker are red (out of spec)
Question: I was told that on these cars, you don't adjust the camber/caster on the front, just the toe. True? If true, see below for why I think the camber is border line on the front passenger wheel.
The reason I had this alignment done was because of an accident. Stupid ****ing story and I'm not getting into it. Just know that it was hard enough to crack the upper oil pan and bend the one of the rear wheels along with scraping up the exhaust and sway bar. The reason I say this is because the tech. explained how the front was in complete adjustment even though the right front camber is right on the green/red line. So basically, we are guessing the Knuckle is bent on the front AND now that I see how much different the two rear cambers are from each other, I'm starting to think the rear knuckle is bent on the passenger side too since there has NEVER been an adjustment on the rear of the car yet (adjustment bolts are seized, and the policey at the shop when doing an insurance claim is not to spend time trying to free **** up....stupid, i know, but thats the reason the rear wasn't adjusted)
Any thoughts guys?
Last edited by 07rdsterGT; 09-12-2008 at 04:07 AM.
09-12-2008, 04:22 AM
#31
A degree of camber isn't going to eat tires. it is the Toe angle....that's 1/2 degree - 1/2 degree of excessive toe is worse that 1.5 degree of excessive camber
however you almost have to have a bent part under the rear of the car 4.0 of camber is WAY TOO MUCH
1/2 degree of toe is enough to screw w/ some things. (EAT tires) our cars are very sensitive to toe changes. some cars are inherently this way.
to your question...correct you cannot adjust camber/caster in the stock configuration. the camber is @ the outside of the spec due to tolerances...or possibly damage from this wreck you speak of. the reason the toe is equally off in the first printout is likely they centered it before printing based on specs, not on steering position.
I'd prefer my camber angles to be about the same on both sides...no more than .5 degree of difference. Honestly I'd rather they both be around 1.0 degree...0 degree camber is straight up and down, not optimal for performance. neg camber is good for this, and if you drive fairly hard you'll use every bit of its benefits.
for toe angles, I like just a hair of toe out, like maybe .04 of NEG toe (out). gives better response to turns. or perfectly zero toe. its design dependent as far as to which one is better on tires. some ppl run a bif of toe in..its probably better for the avg driver. stability, and sluggish, just like the avg. driver.
however you almost have to have a bent part under the rear of the car 4.0 of camber is WAY TOO MUCH
1/2 degree of toe is enough to screw w/ some things. (EAT tires) our cars are very sensitive to toe changes. some cars are inherently this way.
to your question...correct you cannot adjust camber/caster in the stock configuration. the camber is @ the outside of the spec due to tolerances...or possibly damage from this wreck you speak of. the reason the toe is equally off in the first printout is likely they centered it before printing based on specs, not on steering position.
I'd prefer my camber angles to be about the same on both sides...no more than .5 degree of difference. Honestly I'd rather they both be around 1.0 degree...0 degree camber is straight up and down, not optimal for performance. neg camber is good for this, and if you drive fairly hard you'll use every bit of its benefits.
for toe angles, I like just a hair of toe out, like maybe .04 of NEG toe (out). gives better response to turns. or perfectly zero toe. its design dependent as far as to which one is better on tires. some ppl run a bif of toe in..its probably better for the avg driver. stability, and sluggish, just like the avg. driver.
Last edited by WTX350Z; 09-12-2008 at 04:42 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Tonyz_2004_350z
South East Marketplace
1
10-04-2015 12:53 PM