OWTKAST cpt

iTrader: (1)

My GT-C's were poorly cared for before i had them. The lips are scratched and clouded.

I was really looking into having them powder coated but if it would kill the value of the wheels I would prefer not too.

Tried searching for an answer with no luck.

I am sure this is kind of an opinion based question but im open to your helpful opinoins.


Thanks

davidv

iTrader: (2)

Yes. Approximately $100/wheel.

Concave

iTrader: (1)

think if someone would pay more for messed up volks
or clean volks that are powdercoated

sry110

iTrader: (17)

For some reason I think I've read stories of wheels cracking after they have been powder coated. It had something to do with the heat that was used either to get the old paint off, or to bake the new paint on - I can't quite remember. So in my opinion, since there is some potential, inherent risk to powdercoating, I would pay less.

t0mills

iTrader: (2)

Yes, you did read that. About CAST wheels.

Forged wheels, such as Volks, are very different.

Let's not spread misinformation around the forums.

-Tim

OWTKAST cpt

iTrader: (1)

They are a goodlooking wheel until you get up close. They still polish up rather nice just scratched...

I was going to have them powdercoated all black.. then maybe to the time attack theme or something else later on. Really want to see the all black on my black Z though. always been a fan of the "ninja" look.

But if powder coating would greatly diminish the value i would rather sell them for what i can and pick up a different set of wheels...

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

except GTC are not fully forged - but never the less, a well made wheel will withstand properly executed powdercoating. Or, there is always paint

to the OP, once the wheel is used, its not worth what you paid for it. If you like the wheel, keep it, have it painted. If not, sell them for whatever you think you can get for them and get something new

sry110

iTrader: (17)

My mistake. I believe the spokes of the GT-series wheels are cast, and the barrel is forged. He was indeed talking about PC'ing the barrel so I stand corrected.

z-u-later

iTrader: (43)

Another authoritative & factual statement . . .

OWTKAST cpt

iTrader: (1)

Im still in the air......

tware

iTrader: (12)

Yes, it can actually be worse on forged wheels (will make them brittle/aged, not softer). For practical purposes, and the annealing temp of aluminum being the same, the same care to avoid excessive heat, hot spotting and too many heat cycles should be taken with cast and forged.

lgear080

iTrader: (21)

My 2 cents -

If the wheels look ***, they are worthless. If they look good,
they might have value. I would stick with good, multi-coat
auto paint application instead of powder for your GTC-s due
to the wheel's design. Make sure you're happy with the outcome
before you leave with your wheels. Take them apart and reassemble
them properly. Do not allow them to be painted or powdered fully
assembled.

PICs.

sry110

iTrader: (17)

Sorry I don't have the link available. It was on this forum, and if I remember correctly it was a set of OEM nissan wheels (don't remember which version, but seem to remember it being the 06+ touring wheels).

And you are absolutely right, I don't have any cold hard facts, just speculation. But that's more than the OP had so I figured it was worth mentioning, so that he can go out and do his own research on it in case that theory holds any water.

When I get to the bottom of my upcoming in-depth study of Powdercoating and its Effects on the Structural Integrity of Cast and Forged Aluminum in Automotive Wheel Applications, I will be sure to post back here.


By the way, here is a quick search I did. This was one of the threads I "think I remembered" reading some time ago:
https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-tire...tock-rims.html

But whatever, it's probably not even worth thinking about.

EDIT: Maybe it is specific to the 2006+ OEM 350z wheels, whether it is the geometry and/or the material composition of that design.

tware

iTrader: (12)

Lets say a wheel is T6061. Part of the manufacture of this wheel will probably include a certain amount of time at 300-400F, perhaps 2 to 6 hours. It all varies really. This actually 'ages' the alloy and gives it additional strength. 400F+ at some time interval is not trivial to a aluminum wheel

Now, lets take a bad PC shop. they are really busy. They are juggling 10 other jobs. They are mixing metal wheels from truck fleets... the oven is packed. The heat source is in the back. The front of the oven may be 450F.. but youre wheel is seeing 500F because its too close to the heat.

They first heat it up to outgas it. Luckily they havent tried to bake off your existing coating at 500F.. or have they? They will hopefully remember your wheel isnt steel, like the 18 wheeler rims they are PCing too.

They get busy and forget about your wheel, instead of a mins, its in there for 20-30 mins. Then, by the time they pull it out and sprayed it, it's cooled so much that you have a full heat cycle each time they handle it.

This wheel will not be soft, it will be very brittle. Heat has aged it far past a lifetime of use. Some wheels design, where a certain amount of flex is given, like a lightweight split-spoke wheel, will no longer take much punishment before a spoke cracks.

That is worst case.

So, find a shop that is attentive and cares about their work. There are plenty out there. They can recoat your wheels WELL within the margin of safety. But, there are lots of shops that have NO business handling a performance wheel, cast or forged.

Sensi09