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Old Nov 27, 2008 | 02:03 PM
  #21  
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I am lowered on hotchkis springs. The spacers I have on my car came with extended stud instead of the crappy style that has the stud in the spacer. Ive taken to my car to the limiter many times and have never felt any negative feedback from this style spacer.
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 02:56 PM
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If I do get them and don't fit...is there anything that could be done without changing rims to put them on...18x10" rims...offset +45

I really want to get them but I dont want to get new rims for it though

Also...One more thing: Toyo R888 Proxes or M/T Drag Radials?!

Last edited by original786; Nov 28, 2008 at 03:09 PM.
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 06:13 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by original786
If I do get them and don't fit...is there anything that could be done without changing rims to put them on...18x10" rims...offset +45

I really want to get them but I dont want to get new rims for it though

Also...One more thing: Toyo R888 Proxes or M/T Drag Radials?!
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but if you rub your shock than you can add a spacer. OK, now if you add that spacer and you rub your fender lip, you can roll your fender. Now, if that roll isn't quite enough you can add negative camber until it tucks so long as you don't angle back into your shock again.
This fitment has been done before I'm sure. I for one don't think you should worry. Go for it.

There ain't no way they will fit, without complete roll and fender pulled quite a bit and even then I doubt it. If I thought it was possible to run 325/30/19's on a 11.5-12" wheel, I would have done it. just with my 305 on 10.5" wheels I rubbed both the fender and shock sleeve at the same time (sleeve under hard compression and just barely). All with a 35 offset. Also just barely hit the fender with a 1.5" rear drop.

I have about 3/4" of room until the outer edge of my wheel (not the tire) would be completly flush with the outside of the fender and 3/4" clearance to the shock, not the sleave. that's with no load on the suspension.

If you had the fenders totally rolled and cut as far as possible, I don't see how you could run a rim wider than 11.5" and that's with the offset nailed down to the exact mm. This is probably why nobody runs a 325 on the stock body. If you could fit a 11.5"-12" rim, you would have to stretch the crap out of the tires.


you could always go ghetto and let them stick out passed the fender like an SUV, which I have seen some Z guys do in here. Why I have no idea.

If somehow you can pull it off, would love to see pics.
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 06:43 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by bighungrydewees
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but if you rub your shock than you can add a spacer. OK, now if you add that spacer and you rub your fender lip, you can roll your fender. Now, if that roll isn't quite enough you can add negative camber until it tucks so long as you don't angle back into your shock again.
This fitment has been done before I'm sure. I for one don't think you should worry. Go for it.
Thanks for the response...

So Now TOYO R888 or M/T Drag ET Radials..haha
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 06:58 PM
  #25  
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m/t ftw! i have em ...car has been down with no spacer needed....+32
http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...nt=350z055.jpg
http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...nt=350z057.jpg
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 01:50 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by eltness350
Thanks for the pics...are those 305s...Also, hows traction on them...I ust bought some today for $520 for 2. Hopefully they fit nicely
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 03:20 PM
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I'm not exactly sure the 305s will fit well without issues, but I've seen people with 305s on Zs before. Also, DRs won't do anything for you until you warm them up and they will wear out much faster than all street tires. If you don't mind warming them up a little (or waiting until they are sufficiently warmed up) and can afford to buy a new set of rears more often, I say go for it. MTs > BFG for drag radials.

Coachk, I hope you have full tire pressure on the street and only lowering the tire pressure at the track (and re-airing the tires after you're done racing) if you have DRs.
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 03:24 PM
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they are 305 and 100% traction when i had about 450rwhp.....im sure they will hold the 600rwhp im gonna throw at it!! as for how long they last....prob about the same as the bf dr... i have run those also
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 3hree5ive0ero
I'm not exactly sure the 305s will fit well without issues, but I've seen people with 305s on Zs before. Also, DRs won't do anything for you until you warm them up and they will wear out much faster than all street tires. If you don't mind warming them up a little (or waiting until they are sufficiently warmed up) and can afford to buy a new set of rears more often, I say go for it. MTs > BFG for drag radials.

Coachk, I hope you have full tire pressure on the street and only lowering the tire pressure at the track (and re-airing the tires after you're done racing) if you have DRs.
DRs are a stickier compound to begin with and provide traction benefits, over street tires, without heating them up first. Heating them up, meaning doing a burnout.

To the OP, the tires will clear fine I believe and any issues can be fixed with spacers/fender rolling.
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 06:16 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 3hree5ive0ero
I'm not exactly sure the 305s will fit well without issues, but I've seen people with 305s on Zs before. Also, DRs won't do anything for you until you warm them up and they will wear out much faster than all street tires. If you don't mind warming them up a little (or waiting until they are sufficiently warmed up) and can afford to buy a new set of rears more often, I say go for it. MTs > BFG for drag radials.

Coachk, I hope you have full tire pressure on the street and only lowering the tire pressure at the track (and re-airing the tires after you're done racing) if you have DRs.
I certainly hope so too...
Yup...12-15@ the track.35 on the street.
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 09:16 AM
  #31  
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One thing I hate most about drag radials is as soon as you leave the track, after you've heated them a few times, everyone needs to protect their windshield with their life.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 09:42 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by eltness350
im sure they will hold the 600rwhp im gonna throw at it!!
I wouldn't be so confident in that statement. I'm having a hard time finding ANY tire/size (that doesn't require a burnout) to hold my ~600rwhp without spinning 1st and 2nd gear. Sometimes they'll grab in 3rd, sometimes not. Only a heated-up MT ET Street has been successful, but no street tire or drag radial has yet. . .
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 10:32 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by scotts300
I wouldn't be so confident in that statement. I'm having a hard time finding ANY tire/size (that doesn't require a burnout) to hold my ~600rwhp without spinning 1st and 2nd gear. Sometimes they'll grab in 3rd, sometimes not. Only a heated-up MT ET Street has been successful, but no street tire or drag radial has yet. . .
Maybe has to do with your suspension/camber? I hooked up 600wheel (19psi greddy) with the 305 nitto in 2nd. It needed to be a summer day, but it would hook.
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 08:03 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by thawk408
Maybe has to do with your suspension/camber? I hooked up 600wheel (19psi greddy) with the 305 nitto in 2nd. It needed to be a summer day, but it would hook.
Possibly, but probably more torque-curve driven, as my worked 3L with low CR probably doesn't have as much off-boost power as your 3.5L high CR (or did you lower the CR?)
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 08:58 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by scotts300
Possibly, but probably more torque-curve driven, as my worked 3L with low CR probably doesn't have as much off-boost power as your 3.5L high CR (or did you lower the CR?)
8.5:1. What size turbos? I would expect traction to be somewhat better on the 300 since the smaller displacement/less torque.
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