Adon

iTrader: (2)

let's just wait for the experts to chime in before we get to cutting, hahaha

I'll check in with this thread tomorrow when I wake up, I'm hoping it will be ok to cut, then I can go ahead and place my order with Z1 Performance

JDSMotoring

iTrader: (15)

i have arp's on my car as well and i love them, i track my car a lot and its an ease of mind that i dont have to worry about my studs breaking during a session. i for sure recommend these to anyone thinking about upgrading their studs.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

They are designed at a certain length - I don't think you are going to get anyone here to endorse altering them in any way, nor is there any point in doing so. You would want to use either an extended lug of the proper length, or just use an open ended lug, and have zero worries. All that to shave off 20mm of length that is designed into the stud in the first place? If your car is at the point where you need a stud like this, the aesthetics of your lug nuts, which trust me no one at the track is paying any mind to, should be just about the furthest thing down the priority list

If you are not racing, you don't need these, plain and simple. Your stock studs will work just fine unless you plan on strapping 20x10 round lead plates to your car. These are designed for motorsport use.

You are not cutting these with a dremel in my estimation. You would likely need a machine shop to do it for you

ReV2Red

iTrader: (9)

Thing is i track my car, but it's also my DD and i like to show it off. I don't mind the open lugs on the track, but on the street i would like to run my regular ones.
Surely, there made from a solid slug and then machined to the correct size and thread? (That's actually a question)
I honestly can't see how machinig 20mm of the end is going to affect it in any way, but i guess i'll wait to here from a professional metalurgist before i go making claims like that.

ReV2Red

iTrader: (9)

Ok, so i've been doing a bit of searching and it seems a few of the subaru, camaro, and corvette guys cut there studs without any problems. However that doesn't mean it's ok.
I would still like to see what a metalurgist has to say about it.

HoomanR

what are some good brands for open ended extended lugs to go with the ARPs?


Looking for reliability and ease of use, I want to be able to use standard sockets and longer studs will make it a lot easier to install/remove

JDSMotoring

iTrader: (15)

^^ you can try muteki and works lugs with the extended studs ^^

HoomanR

but arent those all aluminum based? wouldn't it be better to get a forged steel one?

ExtaZ33

iTrader: (1)

Check the length on the H&R extended lugs that they sell with spacer kits. Not sure what sizes they come in, but you should be able to find what you're looking for.

BTW, what is the size and offset of the wheels you run on the track?

ReV2Red

iTrader: (9)

18x9.5 +20 up front and 18x10 +15 in the rear.

The thing with the H&R spacers is that the studs it comes with are no better than stock.

T_K

iTrader: (5)

If the threads aren't engaged that portion of the stud doesn't experience any load.

Adon

iTrader: (2)

Here's an email I just received directly from ARP after inquiring about cutting their studs.


Adon,
You can cut down our studs, the best way would be to actually turn them down on a lathe. You'll need to insure that you do not get the stud so hot that it changes color, and also, care should be taken not to damage the threads, as you can not run a die over the threads as this would affect the stud.
Regards,
Zac Kimball
Automotive Racing Products






but on a serious note, I also found out that they are able to make me studs in custom lengths, so I will be ordering directly through them probably with a 50mm size. Check out my thread I made on G35driver for more info guys.


http://g35driver.com/forums/wheels-t...ml#post5208913

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

Which tells me one thing - basically the same thing I said. Sure you can do it, no one here (meaning on my350z) is going to endorse it. Any attempt would require a machine shop

Custom would seem to be your best bet

Adon

iTrader: (2)

^ I'll take the word of a guy who has firsthand knowledge of the product and involved in making them for years, over the general opinions of anybody on a forum any day of the week...
but yea obviously custom is best route now that I know I can get custom sizes....

why didn't you tell us we have that option though ? we been asking in the whole thread about it, did you know they were able to make custom sizes/length ?

ExtaZ33

iTrader: (1)

I will be doing another ARP stud install this weekend, and will try to take pictures and post up a DIY. The fronts are simple, the rears are quite a task though.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

I've never had any need to have custom sizes done, and that would be something arranged between you and the manufacturer directly

sry110

iTrader: (17)

Question about installing wheel studs in the rear (instead of starting a new thread): I read the DIY tutorial on the other Z site and it seems pretty clear. But the question I have is, since the parking brake must be disengaged in order to remove the brake drum, and since the wheel axle must be spun to allow replacement of each wheel stud, can this process be done using the OEM scissor jack one corner at a time? Or do I have to lift the other rear wheel off the ground too? (And then is it safe enough to chock the front wheels to keep the car from rolling, or would I need to put the car up on a jack stand at each corner?)

ExtaZ33

iTrader: (1)

The wheel axle does not have to be spun in order to install the rear studs, only the front. On the rear, you have to take the cotter pin and nut off of the upper control arm, remove camber arm, traction arm, strut, and spring bucket loose from the knuckle. After that, you have to take the knuckle off of the axle using a 2 or 3-prong puller. Taking the knuckle off is the only way to get to the 4 bolts that hold the hub assembly into the knuckle...the driveshaft is in the way when it is all assembled on the car.

Sorry for the messy pics, it's all I have for now until I do another install this weekend.

ExtaZ33

iTrader: (1)

Also, I would recommend getting a new nut for the upper control arm and new cotter pins. I had a hard time with one and ended up stripping it, costing a few days of down time waiting for a new one. The cotter pins are also really hard to straighten out and not destroy them in the process.

You'll also want to use a jack stand so you can use your jack to help raise and lower the spring perch...but that's just personal preference.

Jairen

iTrader: (1)

I need to get a set of these. My local track won't let me run slick or DR's without extended studs and open ended lug nuts.