Soo lets start off with the fact that I finally got my Z. Its been a long time and that time is finally here. Anyways the tires need to be replaced soon so I figured why not get some new wheels with it. I've been looking for weeks on the right set I want and I've boiled down to the RPF1s. After looking at the Enkei Only post, I came to love the whole "4x4" look. I've decided that 18x10.5 15 offset looks prettty awesome..(265x35 all around) But by getting this 4x4 look to look correct I would have to drop the car. So after even more research I found out that I would have to roll the fenders as well as getting adjustable front and rear camber arms, with either coilovers or just springs. I've started out not really knowing anything about all of this and I don't want to post this without knowing anything. So just to be clear I have read about every article on suspension and wheels in here, not trying to take the easy way out and just ask whats best for me without knowing anything at all... So I've come down to this.

Wheels - RPF1s 10.5 all around
Tires - 265x35 (Brand of tires still undecided, suggestions?)
Springs - Tokico D-Spec Combo (Figure if I replace the springs might aswell go with shocks too, heard bad stuff about just leaving stock shocks with new lower springs.)
Front and Rear Camber Arms - Ichibas
And still eiffy about the toe part in this.. Will the SPC rear toe bolt just do for the back and what about the front?

I would really appreciate and feed back on this. FYI First post on here

 

no offense but if you read almost every article or even tried typing in spc suspension in to the search bar you would've answered your own questions...rear spc is for toe only and might adjust some camber but not much(thats why they make rear camber arms). the front spc kit consist of upper control arm assemblies that manipulate toe,camber,and caster, they also include shims for extreme adjustments. The rear kit is just toe bolts and camber arms(they are tow separate kits and part numbers). I have spc in the front which i chose for the only idea that it comes with the shims which enable me to go "all out" if i want(slam car) and for the rear i went with a company called wicked tunung for my rear camber arms and trailing arms(look up both these parts in the search so you know what they are,do, and the differences) i skipped the toe bolts all together.the wicked tuning parts are casted aluminum which is not the highest quality but they get the job done and i have not had any problems at all. On a side note i only have tein lowering springs which could have been installed without all of these parts but I DIDN'T USE THE SEARCH BAR and i literally paid for it. If you are gonna drop it 1inch or less chances re you don't need anything all though it varies slighty from car to car. I have 10.5 in the rear and i do not rub(no fender rolling) i am dropped 1.25 if the front and 1.75 in the rear(i had my springs professionally cut which means they were constantly lubed and cool while they were cut to avoid them loosing their strength) as the front goes i have 9.5 and again, no fender rolling, for 10.5 i believe you don't need it either but it varies from car to car and tire to tire(tire sidewalls and shoulders vary). Anyways sorry for the rant but if i did'nt answer your questions and the search bar "didn't" either well godspeed and once again search before you make a thread, i have had a million questions myself but i search,and search,and search, if sh*t hits the fan i pm people, i have never started a thread.
ps look up if ichibas are casted or forged, also if they have a bushing or are spherical that will make or break your decision(i have heard and read bad things about ichiba suspension parts but i never bought them)

 

I have a feeling you will want coilovers later , especially with running a front tire on the back of your car. If you do not want coilover and want to fill the wheel gap in the rear run some 275/40 rears, then 275/35 front make a great handling combo.

 

Hope this helps Good luck on your endeavors. Doing it right the first time pays off huge in the long run!

 

15 offset for the wheels

Now with tires.. It is a daily driver with plans down the road for some more hp i.e. (TT kit after I deploy) So if I'm suggesting performance, would the 275/40 with 245/35 in the front be a better idea?

With the shocks and springs.. I wanna kinda stay around 3-4k with what I first posted..
But if coils are the way to go in the long run I will just put new tires on my stock rims. ( I need new tires.) Start building the suspension now. That way I can always fit what tire/wheel combo I want to and not be limited by it. Also what coils would be best for daily driver (1k - 1.6k price range?)

I appreciate the recommendation for the front and rear camber arms! Also from everyone else's responses, every little bit helps! Just like you said it pays to get things right the first time so I'm not wasting money buying parts I'm just goning to end up replacing down the road due to quality.

 

here is what I have on my car and it was great when I drove it every day. Now that it is TT and all its just my toy

Hotchkis Front and rear sways
powergrid endlinks
SPC rear camber arms and toe bolt
kinetix traction bars
Cusco front A arms

BC racing type BR coils with lower springs and 10/12 spring rate

you can pretty much do the whole suspension for your budget range especially if you are installing it all yourself

As far as tires go the 265 all the way around is just fine. Even if the tires are still around when you go TT you will burn them up then you can go bigger

If its just a DD right now and you dont do performance driving I would say just get some Falken 452's (longer life) hankooks V12's (little better grip) or something in that range. Not super expensive but will still give you good performance.

 

So you think I should just get new tires now and just start build the suspension? Also I was reading that the Cusco front camber arms were for fixing cars that needed bigger camber adjustments. If thats the case should I be looking at different arms if I'm going to be keeping the stock rims on it after the suspension is on it?

 

Build now for what your plans are for the future Cusco is high quality and great price and is fully adjustable allowing you to get positive and negative adjustments so you will always be able to get the results.

 

So I came down to this.. I'm just going to get new tires for now, save some money for the suspension and get the new wheels and tires later..

Stance GR2 Coilovers
SPL front and rear camber arms
SPL rear toe arm
SPL end links
Hotchkis swaybars

SPL seems to make pretty good stuff so I figure I'll just stay with them instead of mismatching. Any suggestions to that?

 

Scrap the stance junk if your going quality, look into KW instead.

 

Thing is those coil overs are around 1900, I'm trying to stay under 1600 for a set of coilovers.. Any suggestions?

 

Also If when I buy the coil overs can I just get the coil overs and rear toe bar first, with factory specs and stock rims? I plan on adding pieces at a time, so I'm just getting clarification if the coil overs and toe bar would suffice for now.

 

SPL parts are great, my car runs a full set of them out back with SPL compression and LCA bushings up front. The front arms are really not needed, with a 1 inch drop up front you will have around -1.5 to -1.8 camber. That is perfectly acceptable for the street and roadcourse, if you get into the track, you may need more camber later. Ditch the front arms for now and get better coilovers. KW V3 is a great coilover, you will never need to upgrade unless you build a full on track car and pick up some JRZ, Moton Ohlins etc etc. With SPL camber arms and Toe bolts your rear camber and toe will be just fine.

Tires, 275/35 front and 275/40 rear is a great setup for NA, one you go FI you can easily upgrade to 295/35 rears. 285/35 rear is also a great FI or NA rear tires.

Last thing, most front camber arms on the market (except SPC) will only take away a slight amount of camber, they are designed to add more camber for up who track our cars. I run -2.7 up front on the roadcourse, others on slicks run up to -3.5 front camber.

 

-Get coilovers - Stance, D2, or BC.
-Rear fender rolled - You'll want to roll your fenders
-Get wheel spacers - with a square setup your fronts will look more aggressive than rears. Go with a 5mm or even 10mm wheel spacer to give it a more aggressive look.
-Go with 275 instead of 265 tires. 275/35 all around should work out fine if you want to swap wheels to save some $

 

Not sure what OP is going to do with his car but for a street car, KW is overkill for someone on a budget.

 

I decided to go with BC coil overs and SPL toe's. For the coilovers from conceptzperformance, they are listed as 550 front and 440 rear spring rates are these fine for everyday use?

 

glad i stopped in here. it sure has answered alot of questions i had in mind.

i do plan on running 265/35 all around with my 18x10.5 setup. 275/35 sounds even better.

i have 255/40's lying around though....do you guys think that its too small of a tire? my setup would be 18x10.5 +12fronts +0 rears on an eibach sportline drop.

 

Sounds like a plan to me. Lets get started.

 

My BC's are great! 3 years and zero Issues. REbuild kits are cheap too ($95) Had to rebuild one after hitting a pothole HARD.

I have 10k and 12k spring rates believe.
10.5 is overkill for the rim if you only plan to run up to a 265 on it. even 275 is little for that. Id run 285 at least on that size rim, but go to better offsets to fit it.

 

Go to better offsets?