Hi everyone. I am new to my350z, and first thanks to everyone here for all I have learned from my350z over countless hours. This is an awesome source of information. On to the problem at hand:

I recently purchased a set of Volk G2 wheels in 17x9.5 et 30 and wrapped them in 275/40/17 Nitto NT01s all around for a track setup. The wheels are light (17.5 lbs) and the setup fits without spacers and no rubbing. The lugs I purchased with the wheels were AP Tuner Lugs, which come with a proprietary wrench adapter.

When i test fit the wheels, i noticed that since the G2's mounting pads are thicker than the stock wheels' pads, the studs do not protrude through the wheels as far as through the stock wheels. I was able to get 10 full turns of the lug nut, though, and that exceeds the recommended 7-8 that I have heard is the minimum for safety, so I assumed it would be fine.

Next I took the car to a local shop to have new brake pads installed, and other pre-track maintenance: oil change, bleed fluids. (mental note: next time do it yourself)

Once at the track the next day, i decided to re-torque the lugs prior to my first run group, and that's when the trouble started. The lugs were extremely tight, and could only be loosened using a breaker bar (loaned by a fellow my350z member -- Thanks) and lots of force. I was able to loosen and retorque 3 wheels, but then on the last wheel (right rear) i ran into a lug that was especially stubborn. When i really forced it, the lug actually sheared in half, creating a open-ended lug! After panicking for a few minutes, i torqued all the remaining nuts and then went out and flogged my car on the track. Maybe not the safest choice, but the nut wasn't going anywhere and it turned out fine.

After closer inspection, here is what appears to have happened: the threads on the wrench adapter thing stripped, but only on the section of the lug nut that was threaded onto the stud. The end of the lug nut, which was empty inside, remained locked with the teeth of the adapter, and sheared off. As you can see in the pics, the threads on end of the lug show where it twisted as it broke.

So here is my question: Whose fault is this?

1) Mine. I am far too powerful/stupid to be trusted with a breaker bar.

2) The shop. They torqued the @#$@ out of the lugs, and made it impossible to remove them without damaging them. Over torquing them could have also begun the stripping of the adapter or the weakening of the lugs.

3) AP Racing. The lug nuts should be strong enough to handle this.

4) Nobody's fault. $hit happens -- move on with your life.

I am leaning towards 2), but what do you think? And if it is their fault do they owe me lug nuts, and the labor to remove the sheared lug? (i cant get it out with the adapter now, since it is stripped.) I am keeping the shop anonymous to give them a chance to do the right thing.

 

jb weld that ***** on and wrench off...or a gator grip. then again i didnt read it. i just got stripped lug. buy some new ones dude, theyre $40

 

Warm metal and force would do that. Leson learned, its no ones fault. buy new ones and move on. nice wheels.

 

Thats why shops don't touch my car

 

Always ask to have the lugs hand-torqued, a decent shop should know better than to blast them with an impact wrench, especially if there's an adapter involved. While holding the shop accountable for over-torquing the lug nut sounds like a good idea, I wouldn't trust them to try and get it back off without scratching the crap out of your wheels.

 

I had the same thing happen to me


Just get a socket that you dont mind getting rid of, perhaps a size just a tad too small, hammer that ***** on the lug as hard as you can to force it around the lug and then turn. I didn't think it would work for me but it sure did, and mine were torqued with an impact wrench from discount tire (hence the breaking)

 

They probably put it on with a impact wrench and over tightened them.

 

This

OP, if you can't remove them you can try to use a Gator Grip adaptor as long as there is some threading for the adaptor to grasp

 

I agree. That was my assessment too.

Unfortunately it's water under the bridge now but I'd be careful in the future.

 

Thanks everyone for your advice. I ended up pounding on a bunch of different sockets, trying to use a special tool with a swirl pattern, and taking it to 3 different shops before finally resolving the issue. In the process, another piece of the nut sheared off, and the remaining bit was worn down to a nub. It was possibly cross-threaded, because it never did come off.

Specialty Z has earned my respect by being the only shop willing and capable of sticking with this PITA of a job. They ended up drilling out the stud and replacing it. There were some scratches to the inside of the lug nut hole in the wheel, but I am responsible for most of them, and they are minor.

Here are a couple pics of the carnage. The first is the lug which is now in three pieces, and the second is the drilled out stud.